MortarThePoint

The 1400 over 1210 isn't great but less of a worry. Get the 1800 lintel for 1610 opening swapped as not yet installed. 1800 is the top end of a CG90/100 profile before a price bump which may help explain. A 1950 should still be cheap though.

Interesting, I guess you're having a vaulted ceiling hence the ridge steel. That helps lighten the load in the lintel. On plan, the lintel needs to support 0.8m2 of roof per m plus eave overhang. That might be 1.2m2 per m. I think slate is about 35kg/m2, so that's about 50kg/m2 on plan. Perhaps total roof load on lintel is 90kg/m then add snow etc -> conservative 180kg/m (TBC). Blockwork already on there is around 100kg/m. The bearing loads are therefore (180+100)*3 / 2 = 420kgf = 4.2kN per bearing. I think the standard Catnic at 3m has a SWL of 26kN so 8.4kN is well under that, but check. Catnic CG90/100 I'm surprised by your 8mm sag. That's span over 375. It only has 3kN on at the moment which is 10% of max SWL which is likely deflection limited at span over 300 or 0.003*span which is around 10mm. So you should only be seeing about 1mm at this point. Are you sure the floor you are measuring to is flat? What does a 1.8m level look like held under it. I think that if you have 8mm of centre deflection, you'd have about 3mm at each end of a 1.8mm level. That assumes a rotating bearing, otherwise it would be more I guess. Actually, would be good to get a laser level across it and then easier to tell. That bearing would always bug me, but I'm a ruminator by nature. At this point, it's half a day's work to rectify. You don't want to be an open cheque book, but it might smooth it if you cover the cost of the replacement lintel (about £130 I'd guess) if he takes the extra work on the chin. The blocks can be cleaned and relaid. That feels pragmatic to me as you'd be within your rights to just say fix it to him and he pays all. These things can turn ugly, but it can 'keep them honest'. You'll have to gauge the relationship for yourself.

A rough dimension would be useful. I wanted to get a feeling for the load on the door lintel. Sliders can be pretty unforgiving of lintel sag I think I've heard.

Arnie rates Parkside it would seem: I rate their corded angle grinder, mine has seen a lot of action now including the job you mention.

Sometimes the BCO plays a convenient role of bad cop and allows the client to play good cop and not strain the relationship between the client and builder with the client still getting what they want. What type of doors are to go in the 2810 opening?

Are you going with a duo pitch roof with the gable furthest from the existing house? What is the distance from the door to the back wall, with the barrow by it? Did you happen to see a code on the Catnic as to which type it is?

As I understand it, it is good practice to have a slight slope on ducting as it passes through a final wall to an exterior vent in case of rain getting in. If the ducting passes through an unheated area then it makes a lot of sense to have a slope and possibly a condensation trap if case of water condensing in the ducting. It may all be more relevant to a bathroom than a kitchen, but is it normal to set the ducting level or sloped in a particular direction? I haven't found any results in Part F (Ventilation) for slope, gradient or fall and there is one mention of the word drain, but associated with MVHR: The main reason I ask is because I am connecting from rectangular to circular ducting in what I think is an unconventional way. In order to fit behind a soil pipe, I am mounting the rectangular ducting with its long axis vertical. This means that when it connects to the circular ducting, there is an uphill slope in the direction the air is extracting. If water was to condense in the ducting it would pool at the adaptor. There is so much air flow that I'd imagine any condensation would re-evaporate pretty soon, but I wanted to check if I should be doing something about this.

It's Manrose PVC ducting, a mixture of 125mm circular and 204x60 rectangular. I'm not wanting it all to be set solid and unmaintainable. Fear of commitment perhaps. Aluminium tape sounds good and I could use Everflex 195 which has been my go to for other sealing jobs. Its datasheet mentions PVCu, so hopefully OK.

To use the TD 800/200 with 6" ducting you must be using reducers. I was wondering about doing the same with a Manrose MF150T which can achieve a more modest 855 m3/h = 238 L/s. Really, I'd like a blower that has more flow settings that can ideally be remotely controlled. Is that what the TD 800/200 allows?

What, if anything, is needed a ducting connections? For example where a 90 degree bend pushes into the end of a straight pipe. Is any pressure testing required?

I've been trying to sort 150mm but think it's too tricky so am going with 125mm

Sounds good, how often do you turn it up that high?

It feels wrong that there was no upper limit to the flow rate. If you had a cooker hood in a warehouse you'd need a tornado of flow rate. I expected then to have a more appropriate formula for open plan living.

No so it's straight extract

Building regs require only 30 L/s if an externally venting cooker hood. Cooker hood manufacturers recommend 10 air changers per hour though which for a large room results in a much higher flow. Our kitchen/Diner is going to be 81m3 volume, so that advice would suggest a requirement for 810m3/h = 225 L/s which is 7 times the building regs requirement so seems silly. I am contemplating going smaller than that and having a max flow rate of 500 m3/h = 140 L/s which would be only 6 air changes per hour. Will I regret that or are the cooker hood sellers over egging it? What have others done here? https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/1045918/ADF1.pdf https://www.faberhoods.co.uk/extraction-rate-calculator/

Do Building Regs set out a minimum distance between an extractor fan exhaust and an openable window? I'd be surprised if there is as I see bathroom ones near windows all the time.

NHBC says: "Rodding access in locations such as kitchen cupboards is unlikely to be acceptable as it may be below the spillage level of appliances and also would obstruct access for rodding apparatus/equipment." this stack is going to go straight up to a double branch, the top port of which may well be unused and so could be access. That would be below the basin spillover levels though so still not ideal.

@Mr Punter Are you think of one of these. I could use one of these immediately above the 3-port boss if need be. OsmaSoil S/S Bossed Access Pipe: Floplast SP274:

Is that a requirement as it will end up behind kitchen cabinets. I can always install one into this if need be.

I'll air test the joint later, but certainly stiffened up when I was rotating to spread the solvent. I like this approach as it gives a last chance pipe attachment centred 80mm above the screed. Never know, that might come in handy. I didn't level it off, just pushed it all the way home so the next section(s) will correct the error in plumbness, which is about 3 in 100. I went out to do the air test and it was still smelling so I am going to wait a few hours. I always end up testing in the dark 🙂

These are a more sensible choice than duct tape, probably about a pound each: OsmaDrain Temporary Site Cap 110mm 4D295

Typical that I put on some duct tape to protect the end of the pipe and stop stuff falling in and it's then the duct tape residue that's hard to deal with.

It's actually cleaned up pretty well. I think I am going to use an OSMASoil short boss (3 port) as it has the short insertion length and all the ports are sealed so it ends up being a short insertion solvent welded coupler.

I spoke to Floplast and they thought the SP124 was the way to go. I asked if there was a part that mated on the inside of the pipe and he said Floplast didn't produce one but hinted that others may. Is this something anyone has come across. It would be a bit like a downpipe coupler, goes inside the bottom pipe and outside the top pipe. It would hopefully solvent weld on the bottom side and either solvent weld of ring seal on he top pipe.

I am hoping I can clean it up well enough for the solvent bond.