Thorfun

from the bar or from a.n.other cause?

actually, thinking about it some more and (completely monopolising this thread now) is it possible to do a hybrid solution with the Impey membrane on the floor and a liquid membrane on the walls? that way you get the benefits of the decoupling mat but also not the expense of using the expensive membrane on the walls.

thank you. don't suppose you have a photo of how it's held in do you please? we only need 800mm max screen. any wider and the kids won't be able to get in to it! 🤣

further to the above I've re-read this thread and your post where you extol the virtues of the Impey system albeit a bit of a pain to install!

hi @Nickfromwales. I'm researching tanking for our shower areas at the moment. we are going with impey aqua-dec formers. I know from reading other threads that @ProDave used the same trays with the aforementioned Impey membrane kit. I'm curious as to know if you think the Impey solution is still expensive when you consider it is also a decoupling mat for the tiles when compared to a paint on solution with a separate decoupling mat? Also if we're going to use the Impey UFH mat on the former (which I believe is possible) it says that their tanking solutions works perfectly well with their electric UFH and that their UFH mat is thin enough to not affect the level of the tiles to maintain a level floor throughout. what say you?

next question! glass for the kids' showers..... what thickness is recommended? the wife doesn't want a bar going across from the glass over the shower. what are our options? vertical bar to the ceiling? glass from floor to ceiling? is there a maximum glass size where a supporting bar is not required?

have discussed this with SWMBO and we both agree on the 1100mm former with the flat entrance area. only time will tell if we made the right choice!

anyone got any opinions on the shower former size we should go for here please? i'm keen to get them ordered and in place as i need to finish plumbing first fix so i can get boarding! i'm leaning towards having the slope of the former start at the entrance to the shower end. so about 1100mm and having a flat 'entrance/landing'.

it's a good question! we like the idea of keeping the toilet and shower 'hidden' so it's like a secret gem behind a wall. also the bath will fit perfectly between the two walls so we don't have to worry about blanking the end of a bath etc and it will also house the towel radiator above the bath.

got my Graf one2clean off the delivery lorry with my 2.7T digger. it's not a conical shaped tank though so maybe that's the difference with @ProDave's?

thought it might be best to put a plan view of the en-suite up to show the proposed layout. dimensions are not accurate as we extended the bathroom 400mm to give more space between shower and toilet.

we have discussed shower trays etc but are happy with a potentially damp area of flooring for the aesthetics of the wetroom look. i'm sure it'll be fine. 🤞

that is definitely a risk but the shower heads are 1.8m from the toilet so any shower splashes should be minimal. also we will have electric UFH which should assist in helping to dry out the floor. and MVHR extract of course. this is the design our architect came up with and we're too far down the line to change it now so it's the space we need to work with.

basins will be on the camera side of the stud walls on the left and a bath on the right. yes, flush with finished floor in a wetroom style. 🙂

can you go liquid screed at 50mm? would give you an extra 20mm insulation. we have Cemfloor screed and it's so quick to pour and can work on it within 48hours and tile after 4 days with no laitence to remove. if you're stuck with 100mm then as was mentioned above the Kingspan phenolic insulation will give slightly better performance that normal PIR.

hello lovely people (and @pocster). I have another question about the layout of our master en-suite shower/toilet area mostly related to the size of Impey Aqua-dec former. from the photo above you can see the area in question. in the alcoves behind the stud wall we have the toilet on the right and then on the left is the shower area. the left stud wall comes out to about 1100mm and the area is sized to take a 900mm wide former. we have a shower head on the wall and a drenching shower head above with the controls inside the alcove entrance to allow not getting wet when turning on the shower. with the entrance to the area serving the toilet and shower what do people think will look best for size of shower tray here? an 1850mm former will almost reach the other side of the entrance. a 1400mm will go 1/3 of the way across and an 1100mm to the end of the shower stud wall. obviously, formers can be cut to any size in between. worried that an 1850mm former would result in a lip down when stepping in to the shower or might make stepping in to the toilet area awkward? but then worried that an 1100mm tray to the end of the shower stud wall leaving the entrance flat would mean increased water sitting at the entrance as it has nowhere to flow. opinions please. 🙂

The wife baked a yummy blueberry cake if you do.

It’s already purchased so that money is forgotten about.

Ok. Let’s say I went with the valves. What’s this wiring all about? Do I need a wiring centre? At the moment I have a single really cheap thermostat in the basement. So would I need a second thermostat upstairs? I know you said wireless but eventually I’ll have thermostats as part of the Loxone system so was trying to do thermostats on the cheap as they’ll eventually be superfluous to requirements! Wireless thermostats sound expensive.

This is the conclusion we came to as well. And there’s even less of a difference when they’re wet (I used the hose on them as it rains a lot in the UK I thought it was a good test to perform). So we went with the cheaper slate and our roofer was impressed with the quality and uniformity of them.

Come on Nick. You know I’m a tight ar$e. £119 x 2!! I’m sorely tempted to just turn off the basement ufh for now as it’ll be years before it’s a usable space. Then when I’m no longer on stupidly high self-build mortgage rates I might have some spare cash to get it all sorted. such is the life of a self builder.

cool. don't suppose you have any recommendations for such a product do you? I can purchase them in advance and have them here for when they attend and they can fit them.

got my slates from Jewson. very good quality and a great price. from the same quarry as Siga slates apparently. I've posted on here before about them so a quick search should find my previous comments on the subject.

ok, awesome. I'll chat to them on Friday about it all but will just leave it as is for now as I just want to get the manifold plumbed in before I start plaster boarding . happy to visit this subject again after we've lived in the house for a while and if we want finer control. thank you so much for your advice.

ok cool. so, for now, we can just ignore any pumps on the GF manifold and just use the one pump in the basement and see what happens? if we find we're needing different flow temps then we can cross that bridge at that time and re-plumb at the manifolds?