Thorfun

Nice one. 👍

We did similar to @nod and was labour only. I saved loads by doing second fix myself which sparky was happy to sign off. Also our lighting is controlled by Loxone and I did all that so electrician didn’t get involved in that side. there are ways to save money if you’re will to do the boring work ( and wiring up faceplates is really boring!) and have a friendly sparks who’s happy to do be accommodating.

Not cheap but we went for Shou Sugi Ban (charred timber). Looks amazing and no maintenance at all. With the benefit of being fireproof, insect proof, weather proof.

Don’t suppose you could post a link to that template could you please? Save me going looking. I have a massive pile of invoices I need to start going through. 😢

found this system in the white book which i could emulate. might stick a 3rd layer of 12.5mm standard pb to the partition wall or a layer of MLV.

I presume these are the same as resilient bars?

Rehearsals/jamming

it's an interesting idea but, tbh, i'm not too worried about how it sounds at the moment i just want to reduce the noise in the rest of the house. once i have that down to a dull-roar i can worry about treatments in each area to improve the sound quality. if that makes sense!

not a french door but a double width opening for double doors. but i'm not worried about that as i will have the new stud wall as a barrier between the live instruments and those doors. i've thought about this and looking through the white book at their specific audio walls there's this option but it's 300mm thick which will eat in to the already small space of the control room.

yeah. I agree with this. I'm actually thinking about hanging the door opposite directions as well so that the hinges/latches are at different ends. the music room and control room area already has MVHR in each part as I always thought about doing this splitting of it. and acoustic sealant was definitely going to be used everywhere! yep. dropped metal ceiling in the plan. 🙂 ok, so this makes sense and having the 25mm of fluffy stuff (not necessarily RWA45 though) behind the plasterboard of the perimeter walls will help with this but be negligible for the total mass of the wall. I have been looking at acoustic foam but wasn't sure I wanted the entire room covered in it but I'll research it some more. so I think you're saying that on the perimeter walls where I have the concrete and blocks a single skin of 12.5mm plasterboard will suffice as those walls already have a lot of mass. so my concern is the partition wall and ceiling (as I thought!). I can't use soundbloc as that only comes in 1200x2400 sheets unless I'm willing to cut it in half and then carry it down to the basement. but I did find Gyproc Plank which has a density of 14.7kg/m2 (denser than Soundbloc F) and comes in sheets of 600x2400. so I'm now thinking a layer of that with a standard 12.5mm plasterboard on that should give a mass of around 22.7kg/m2. I know MLV is expensive but if I add a 2mm sheet of that which gives 5kg/m2 that will be a total of 27.7kg/m2 which is almost the same as 2 x 15mm Soundbloc F (28.2kg/m2). there is also the block and beam flooring above the metal ceiling which has a 50mm concrete screed on top of that so I think that should suffice! totally get this but it's knowing when to stop and fitting it all in our now non-existent budget.

I believe so. XL are good doors but double check the spec yourself to be sure

No. Went for XL joinery from my local Jewson who gave me a good price.

greetings all. as a kind-of follow on from I wanted to start a new discussion on my sound insulating needs for the music room in more detail as I'm concerned I'm overthinking and over-(sound)engineering things as usual. this is the music room. I'm planning on splitting is as shown in to 2 separate rooms, one with the recording desk and the other for the instruments. the room is in the basement and the hashed walls are blocks laid-flat, so 225mm thick and the outside walls are 250mm reinforced concrete with the earth outside. I was planning on using this system from the Whitebook but with a second skin of standard 12.5mm board for the pre-existing walls (I need to use standard board as I can't fit 1200x2400 boards down the stairs to the basement so need a board that comes in 900x1800mm) but I'm wondering if that's complete overkill! I'm doubting that the Rockwool insulation with have much of an effect when there's 225mm concrete blocks behind it as that mass will stop a lot of the noise. and for the outside walls with the earth behind what's the point of even doing a second skin of plasterboard!? so I'm leaning towards scrapping the idea of the 25mm layer of insulation and the second skin, what do you think? I'm thinking that my focus for sound insulation needs to be on the new partition wall, the door ways and the ceiling as the kitchen is above this room. so for the ceiling I am planning on using this system and putting 100mm RWA45 above it and also putting a layer of MLV between the 2 layers of standard 12.5mm plasterboard. for the partition wall I was thinking of using this system and also putting MLV between the 2 layers on the music room side of the wall. for both the doorways I am planning 2 x FD30 doors with MLV on one face and sealed around the edges with rubber. I would appreciate anyone's input on this. tbh, I think I'm happy with the partition wall and ceiling plan but I want someone to tell me honestly that anything more than a single skin of 12.5mm plasterboard against the existing block and concrete walls is a waste! and how, if at all, would you do it differently. for context, our drummer is really <expletive deleted> loud so the amps have to be cranked up to be heard over him. previously as rehearsals we hit around 106dB looking at my Apple health data.

+1. I splashed out on a Dewalt and the accompanying leg stand for it. Well worth the money. It’s done everything from skirting, flooring, stud work and lots more. just don’t tell @Pocster I bought yellow and black as he’ll never let me live it down.

our BCO insisted on a SVP. managed to reduce the visual impact with a slate vent

and shower tray wastes. i ended up using trays that had variable waste positioning to accommodate joist locations

We went for 8mm deflection and there still a bit of bounce on our 6m spans. Would’ve been horrendous if we’d gone any higher.

And all my overthinking was in vain as I cannot find sound blocking plasterboard in 900x1800 sheets. I can’t fit standard sized boards down the stairs to the basement so looks like I’m just going to have to use double skin of standard plasterboard and live with any noise that gets through. 😢

I agree with @nod. We didn’t use a main contractor and just hired subbies. None of them had contracts they just quoted for the work and did the job. but maybe we were lucky and got really good trades who were all spot on and so there weren’t any disputes.

That’s really interesting especially as Fermacell alone says it can take 30kg per screw by itself! I wonder if I’m overthinking it all as usual and for a couple of really heavy fixings just use multiple of those big bad-ass plasterboard fixings (https://www.gripitfixings.co.uk). They state 113kg which is more than a speaker for a PA system.

https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/board-products/gyproc-habito-12-5mm#characteristic 15kg a screw. Thanks. Will keep it in mind.

Interesting. Will research it as I’ve never heard of it.

I will use Rockwool behind the boards and green glue around edges and fittings to help.

good to know! thank you. 🙂 I assume fixing OSB or Ply to metal frame isn't hard?

hmm....maybe a layer of fermacell with Soundbloc on top would be better than ply with Soundbloc on top?