Thorfun

thanks. this room has been interesting as I have a change of ceiling heights where the soil pipe runs is lower. my first time doing something a little more complicated than just a wall or flat ceiling!

That’d be a first for me!

done! looks much better.

That’s fair. Tbh I can’t afford one either. I’m just curious as to what they’re like! I’ve hired a Liugong 1.8T a couple of times and they seem decent enough but I think they’re on the expensive side of the Chinese diggers.

i saw these and was slightly tempted to drive down and take a look. if you're bored one day and fancy to do that test drive for us it'd be very much appreciated. 😉

It can be done with some planning and persuasion. We got water and electrics on the same road closure.

I’d say there’s no hard and fast rule tbh and some things take so long (like utilities) that you’d be a fool to wait. Also every plot is different. We were lucky in that we already had a building on site so could use the existing utilities to start building while waiting for new utilities to be connected. if there’s no utilities on site then I’d suggest water and power are essential to start as your trades will need them. The electric company will run a temporary supply and your sparky will need to connect to it (afaik). but, like I said, we didn’t need any of that so I’m probably not the best person to answer

You do! You do 😉 This would normally be a civil engineer. But your groundworker probably has more “field experience” on the subject. are you wed to Danwood? I wonder if it’s worth getting a couple of different quotes. I think it’d be wise to spend a lot of time on here doing loads of reading! I can also recommend Mark Brinkley’s Bible as a great book to start with. https://amzn.eu/d/guJ8WmP best of luck!

Ok. That makes sense.

I’m confused. If you’re getting a 5kWp array why would you need an 8kW inverter?

We try not to laugh at people on here. Well, except for @Pocster . We laugh at him all the time.

Welcome @Raphael Andreas . Might be best to start a thread under the relevant forum as questions like those could easily end up being long threads! best of luck. Self building is stressful but so worth it to build what you actually want to live in.

Never mind. Found the answer.

Can someone explain how to test the calibration? Surely to measure at both ends you have to be certain what you’re measuring against is perfectly true?

Sure. It’s still possible though and if the seller pays for the indemnity (which they should) then the OP is quids in with peace of mind.

ultimately it is up to you and if your lender is happy to proceed without the warranty and your survey comes back clean then i'd say you're in an ok spot. as was said above after 7 more years the warranty doesn't matter anyway. tbh, i'd have been a lot cheekier with the reduction than 20k. but it's a hard game to play if you really love the place and are worried they'll just pull out and not entertain further offers.

wow! they didn't offer any potential solutions? you could request an indemnity that WOULD cover structural defects. anything is possible and i'm surprised your solicitor didn't suggest anything at all.

what does your solicitor advise? not trying to be funny but if the building had structural issues and needed to be rebuilt then i would suggest the rebuild costs be knocked off the asking price. obviously the seller will reject this but if you think of worst case scenario that a structural warranty will give you then that's the cost you'd incur without one. if it's a semi detached though if one side has a warranty then i can't understand why the other side wouldn't? if structural issues happen on one side then won't that also affect the other side? tbh, i don't have a clue what to advise here apart from speak to your solicitor! maybe others will be along to offer something else.

We have a poured lintel in our basement designed by the SE. it came out a bit rough but we weren’t going for aesthetics! i’m sure if you tried with decent formwork and the right concrete you could make it look nice.

the OP mentioned TRVs early on in the thread so i would presume it's radiators.

This is a top tip that I followed. And not only for the reason you say, it also saves a lot of cable by not going up and down to the ceiling every time!

I don’t think it’s as black and white as this. For a well insulated airtight house there’s no need for high flow temps and using underlay suitable for ufh in areas with engineered timber flooring will work. Even if it did reduce the temperature a bit the whole house would have the same temperature and so other areas would compensate. we have underlay with our engineered flooring in some rooms and tiles elsewhere and our house is not cold. we also have decoupling membrane under our porcelain tiles and can feel the tiles are warm when the heating is on and the flow temperature is high enough. Our current flow temperature is 26 deg C and the house is maintaining 22 deg C but the tiles aren’t warm. They’re just not cold. It’s very easy to overthink things! I’m an expert at it.

None of the touch buttons depress. You can literally just put your palm over the central area and it will activate the switch. Double and triple taps are a doddle too

No complaints about the retro touch switches. But then I rarely use them! Light come on automatically when I enter those rooms. I’ve mostly Loxone Touch Tree switches around the place for the 5 touch points as we have external blinds in most rooms and will eventually get the audio server going so they will do that. Also I use the temperature measurements the touch switches give as well. anywhere we don’t need a touch we have single retro touches. Just for manual turning on and off if ever required. I couldn’t justify the cost of the Touch Pures as much as I’d have liked them.