Thorfun

We installed a 5000l tanks and had toilets and washing machine running on it. Cisterns were brown with tannins and had an issue with one toilet ( probably unique to our build though) so I plumbed in a bypass to the header tank in the loft and just run off mains water now. But it’s all still plumbed in if I ever want to go back to using rainwater. Probably won’t though. so I guess it was a waste but at the time of planning it it seemed like a good idea and it probably helped us get through the water calculations etc but I wouldn’t do it again if I didn’t have to.

that's exactly what i mean and we did. so the exhaust and intake external holes were sealed using airtight membrane rather than a plastic bag. i would've through that small amounts of air might penetrate a plastic bag? also potentially prone to ripping? i just didn't want any potential leakage during the test is all.

i sealed ours up with airtight membrane and tape!

again i agree! all my service cavity battens are screwed through our Intello Plus and so there are a lot of screw penetrations.

+1. 1.56 isn't poor! just compared to some on here and i guess it's poor if aiming for 0.6ACH but it's all relative. we got a score of 1ACH and it was my target so i was happy. i probably could've done more but life's too short for me to worry about the small-ish difference it would've made getting it down further.

gypliner system is very easy. but as i have a need to know why to do things and to make sure i'm not making mistakes i tend to ask lots of questions (hence the recent threads!) but if i can do it then anyone can. i do have one wall i need to dot and dab though so i will attempt it at some point.

we had a great experience with Norrsken (and still are some 2 years after installation). lovely windows and installation managed by them too so all under one roof.

for me the best tool for dot and dab was to use metal framing. 🤣 for some reason i don't want to attempt dot and dab and would rather spend the money and time metal framing. yes, i am an idiot i know.

thank you for confirming this. I've only got 105mm from the right hand side. 😢

nice! i lived in Epsom and Ewell most of my life before i had to head south to get more for my money. we have a basement. built it using RC waterproof concrete with an external waterproof membrane and surrounded by and sat on 200mm EPS. I put it up on a blog here if you're interested.

oh wait. for question 2 above i might have found the answer. i see this for door and window openings in the gyplyner single whitebook entry so i guess a follow up question is will that be enough for the double width opening i have? it will be more than the 600mm centers specified. one solution would be to fit some timber in the steel and attach more GL1 studs to make it 600 centers? actually, that would also be required for a standard door opening to fit a 33" door, right? as that opening is 900mm. so to maintain the 600mm centers max extra studs will need to be fitted above the doorway openings?

so it seems that i have many more questions about MF ceilings and walls as i fit out our basement. so i thought i'd just start an MF questions thread rather than multiple individual threads. i'm sure that some of these questions are very beginner questions (as that's what i am!) but i'm here to learn. 1. can i attach resilient bars to MF5 (top hats)? all the articles on the web seem to state attach resilient bars to joists and no one seems to do it to a metal frame ceiling. i don't see why not but wanted to ask to be sure. 2. when building a GypLyner Single lining system on walls with doors, how do you go around the doorway? the white book shows a window reveal but nothing about a doorway! https://www.british-gypsum.com/documents/white-book/british-gypsum-wb-gyplyner-single.pdf . i have a double width doorway and a single width doorway to navigate with my lining.

Awesome. That Ilbruck PU700 is a PU adhesive and stuff stays stuck when I’ve used it before.

the BG white book states but what happens when you can't suitably fix very well? our cemfloor screed sits a little away from the wall due to the perimeter foam for expansion and so if I want to use a minimal gap between the MF base channel and the wall I don't really have anything to drill down in to without it blowing out the edge of the screed? without want to do that nor wanting to unnecessarily reduce the room size just to get a good fixing point down I was wondering if I could use construction adhesive to fix the base channel down? I have loads of this stuff (https://www.illbruck.com/en-gb/products-systems/product-finder/pu700-multi-use-construction-adhesive/) which sticks very well! I'm thinking that with the GL1 studs being attached to the walls then having the base track simply glued down might not be an issue? what do folk think?

Out of interest, can you lay Amtico on some form of underlay to remove any small imperfections on the underlying floor? Or does it not work that way?

I’m doing all that other stuff too!

this is a great question! our planning stipulated free draining driveway so we had to have permeable sublayer so rather than putting down loads of hardcore/type 1 to only have to remove it later we dug down the required depth and filled it with what will be the final subbase layer and then put terram on top and a 100mm layer of cheapest hardcore on top of that for the lorries to drive on.

I'm sound proofing as much as I can our music room. I decided to put 100mm RW5 above the double boarded ceiling to try and reduce the bass as much as possible. At 100kg/m3 I'm hoping it will do the job. but.....for anyone considering using it, it is a massive pain to use! it's so dense it's not flexible at all so it's more likely to get gaps between slabs. if I were to do it again I would seriously consider adding an extra 50% of insulation and use RW3 (so 150mm RW3) I'm so glad that part is over and I'm on to plaster boarding now.

made a start on this. there are, inevitably, gaps between the plasterboards. is there any point filling these with acoustic sealant when the second layer of boards below are going to be staggered? if so do I just squeeze on a bead and press it in with a filler knife? or is there something special that needs to be done.

does that integrated white goods? like dishwashers, ovens, microwaves etc

and i thought you were such a nice guy! despite what everyone else says 🤣

assuming that's one of the invoices they ask to see though, right? i thought they only ask for a select number of invoices these days with the online submission

good luck. I'm just collating all our invoices. currently up to 561 and only up to June 2024.

Welcome back. Hope you’re refreshed after your hiatus. I also learned loads from your posts so thank you. ☺️

yes! this is what i use mine for. 🙂 although i override often in the winter as i want the rooms to heat up to save me heating them