Onoff

He bites pillows not his nails!

Regular manicure?

I understood you to be a keen gardener, albeit mostly uphill.

Neem oil seems to be the thing for shield bugs which we do have in the garden. Wonder if it's any use to deter the lower hanging, bottom dwelling pocsteris bug that's plaguing this thread?

Talking of has beans...

Whitefly somebody suggested. Going to get back spraying with peppermint oil.

What ails my runners? These are some of the trenched ones? Some have green nodules on, I think there's an infestation in the nodules. Whatever "hatches" and leaves these damaged areas behind. At the mo it's a minority but anxious to nip it in the bud.

I believe Scots pine is the timber used for telegraph poles? Using 2 of those as the main uprights, with a rich black stain might give a nice connection to the landscape and match the downpipes? Tall enough too to carry on to handrail height. You'd need to lay them flat and machine flats, mortices perhaps.

You only want / need like 3mm of stud projecting out of the nut and don't forget to take the burrs off.

8mm st/st rod will be fine with stainless nuts and washers.

I bought, on a whim, a cheap, pir solar light from Lidl. Comes on in the morning lighting up the patio when I go to work. Tbh it's been excellent. Has a separate LED panel and lamp unit with a rechargeable battery in. Connected by a long lead. As I round the corner of the house there's a dark step so when they came up some months later, I bought a second, identical unit. It didn't work from day one. Yes I could have taken it back. Finally got around to taking things apart. Where the white wire attaches to the panel was badly joined and not making contact, only joined by a blob of clear silicone. I cleaned out the crud with a screwdriver tip and contact cleaner. The intact, still connected red wire appears to be soldered. The corroded side, well there's nothing to solder to. If you hold it up to the light you can see where the coating and I'm guessing copper pad has come off: If I hold the white wire down over that damaged area I get a full 5V output. I've tried soldering the wire back on, tried flux, but there is just nothing to stick to. I'm thinking a conductive adhesive to push the wire into or a ball of copper braid, soldered to then clamped down with some adhesive. Any thoughts other than binning it? 😂

I'd suggest deeper too. For running a strip of "rubber" up there first so the edge of the glass has rubber on 3 sides.

Put it this way, a posh mate of mine had all his roof lights done for free by probably "the" best known rooflight company. His house conversion is pretty swish. They came in and decorated/furnished the place and my mate moved out whilst the video crew did their thing. Sales video is on YouTube still I think. I'll see if I can find it Me, I'd want something.

Something like this. This is the foot of the kid's spiral staircase. The timber is up off the ground by +6" 10/12mm thick galvanised shoe (had these made special years back). M16 stainless stud goes through the 4x4 post. I didn't have any long bolts so I made some by permanently fixing a nut to the stud. I "just" drilled through and fitted a stainless scroll pin. You'll note the white nylon washer between the stainless one and galvanised bracket. This done to isolate between dissimilar metals. The other side. All the bolt heads and nuts were once capped with white plastic caps. Most have disintegrated now. This the foot of the spiral staircase. It was a couple of inches off the deck but the soil / veg had grown up around it. Note how it looks a bit "rotten". We now print our own nut caps here. Could even do you an audio amp related nut cap shape! 😂

What about a couple of decent telegraph poles as possible cheap posts? You could machine square faces at the top to fix through. Black to match your downpipes. Be careful sliding glass straight into wood. Any warpage will crack the glass. Better to have an intermediate "channel" to deal with expansion. You can of course recess the channel flush with the balustrade uprights.

Drill through the shoe from each side and the holes will line up. Knock through a bit of stainless steel studding. Put a flat washer, spring washer and full nut each side. Leave 3 thread pitches projecting out of the nut either side. Finish off with a plastic nut cap. I could probably send you some M10 bolts but they won't be stainless. How wide is the shoe?

Picking up new hinges today.

Pair of reprobates! Thanks for bring my thread down to your level 😤

A structural engineer would know! What did yours say? 😂

I presume you'll have worked out your post length already, that it's long enough or that you'll have to cut it down?

Christ it's like summoning Beetlejuice. The mere mention of a tight butt and he appears 😱

It's let in to the timber.

Right, the shoes have a pointy spike on. The flat bit of "rubble" is for that to bear down on. If you put your spike into the rubble, even if it's tamped down, the spike might slip or go into a void chucking your level out of whack. Rest the spike on a flat bit of (Welsh?)slate, quarry tile offcut etc then slide another bit under to level it etc.

It's just the crappy bog door catch in the upstairs ensuite won't slide into its hole. It's either the hinges worn a fraction or the timber frame of the dormer shifted! 😂