Onoff

Gave up to sit in the garden to read this and drink the other. Absolute scorcher and then two De Havilland Vampires fly up the valley and very low over the house! Maybe an airshow on nearby? Biggin Hill?

That's it, it's staying like this. Duct tape around the pipes, old screw holes taped over. Now got to fit the PIR around these pipes. Was thinking to maybe "V" the PIR so it comes in from each side then foam fill the gap? sans the dwarf wall: dwarf wall in place: Valves just sitting on there for effect, might crank these ends down a few degrees with the spring:

One of the MANY reasons I could never work for myself. They use me at work for retro fit solutions quite often. When it's gotten to the point the customer is so peed off with repeat breakdown charges on something which was never really fit for purpose anyway & can't be milked anymore I get the job to go in & fix it with cost the secondary issue. Often faced with a very unhappy customer. I'm tenacious and keep at it and get to indulge my quirks and produce a first class solution. I've gotten to play with some MIL spec stuff on the back of it too. The shame is I've often thought the design was crap at the design stage but been over ruled by management and the designers with degrees. The irony is that we've then lost some contracts as the client is that fed up by then. Mates at other companies who now do them tell me my retro fit details carry on trouble free.

I was considering to drop a separate hot for the bath tbh. It means drilling another hole. The main thing for me and it might seem a bit (a lot?) anal is that it upsets the symmetry of the pipework. At the mo there's 3 equi-spaced pipes and a fourth would throw it all out and make it look ill considered. That's how I think, I get stuck in a loop etc. Sad I know! I'll have to get over it! I've just been in to stare at it all again and decided it's not the biggest issue! The alternative being to redo it all and I think I've peaked on that front. Saying that I am getting to enjoy the bending. Yep the upstairs bathroom sink is fed off the cws tank. This is a tiny 25 gallon one that sits above the upstairs ceiling. The hot is from a copper hot water cylinder above the downstairs ceiling. Think I mentioned back on eBuild that since fitting the tap style below, upstairs we periodically have the cold from the cws get slower and slower till it stops. I then have to bleed the cws run from that 22 mm grey Hep2O stop end you can see in the loft pics above. It's only been an issue since fitting this type of tap. Plan is to change over to mains cold.

Cold bath feed bent, cranked and in. Tbh wish I'd made it a bit nearer over to the multi-tool! I'll go from here to a bit of that Hep2O PB to the bath filler /taps. Might put an access panel on the end of the bath to get to these connections. Next, the last one, the bath hot to figure off of the sink feed. Will re-position the clips too here and there: EDIT: Debating re-doing the hot feed to the sink so I can more neatly incorporate a tee off for the bath. And again might re-do the cold to the bath so it's further over to the right. I feel like I'm getting somewhere though!

Is there an issue with having the hot feed 15mm copper to the bathroom basin physically touching the cold (mains) feed? It theoretically shouldn't according to the CAD but with my bending etc. Thinking noise potential and condensation. Option to wrap in Denso where they pass thru the dwarf stud wall or sleeve with something. Cheers, Actually I will have to have a soldered joint somewhere, I've got to tee off of that hot feed for the bath.....

HAPPY...ish... No soldered joints just bending and offsetting, one down:

Went into The Works yesterday for the youngest wanting clay and other art materials. They're doing triple points on purchases over £10. http://www.theworks.co.uk/page/together-rewards-card

Just that if the eaves becomes a room any isolation will be bound to be behind/ under something!

Loft is a blank canvas pretty much in the hipped roof end above the new bathroom ceiling. You can see the x3 15mm pipes coming up within the bundle of Cat-5: Still a lot of tidying to do up there with respect to existing "plumbing" (and wiring). Have to consider it carefully as we're toying with changing the roof to gable ends. The pipe with the x2 gate valves is the cold feed from the 25 gallon cws tank above the dormer. It comes down the dormer wall and goes left to feed the upstairs wc and upstairs bathroom basin, I capped it off with the push fit where it used to feed to downstairs bathroom I'm currently doing. The hot feed from the cylinder is the low down, horizontal one from the (red) ball valve at the mo that just feeds the upstairs basin sink. EDIT: All the ballofix valves are good quality, full bore ones,

I've just been promised an 18V Makita drill body (the "white" one) for nowt. Friend of a friend was selling off her late husbands tools (a sparky) and the buyer just wanted the drill battery???

How about these and have the hot & cold to the sink coming horizontally through the wall in 15mm copper? http://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-push-fit-flexible-monobloc-tap-connectors-15mm-x-m10mm-x-300mm-2-pack/2043f

Slightly off topic but S'fix have WD40 for £24.99 / 5ltrs

Pub didn't work. Rethinking access, positions of sink / bath isolation valves etc.....

Going to the pub!

.....or do I try and put a set in the tails?

Driving me nuts tbh. I guess it's an experience thing but I'm off to find a couple on Neurofen in a minute! Trying to think ahead, minimising joints where inaccessible etc. It's; unwrap the sink, unwrap the pedestal, loosley position to gauge everything. That done put the sink and pedestal back in their boxes. Then realise I'm not sure if the planned removable tile will clash with the pedestal. At the same time thinking maybe the tile above will be better but will that clash with the sink? So, mark the tile positions on the studs; unwrap the sink etc again. Then the waste, do I lengthen the waste or shorten the tails? Every step something new. Dry fitting and taking apart all the time is a pita! Still I want it to look good in the end and be something to be proud of. (Ditched the push fit valves btw and going soldered copper and bends where I can). I'm sure I'll look back and laugh.....

I F*****G hate plumbing! Hats off to those who do it and do it well.

Ta, how many demounting operations will these fittings stand? I've got the proper tool btw. Should I maybe then have used compression fitting valves instead of push fit? Got a bit carried away!

I'll openly admit I've not had much experience of using this push fit stuff, especially the pipe. Trying to make it all look neat. The 3 valves will be behind a removable tile: Next to drill the stud wall to take the pipes to the sink and bath!

Bought a £16 Rothenberger shear type pipe cutter. Harder work tbh than the slightly dulled (blue) Screwfix own brand one I've already got!

Yep, that's me! I was trying to rotate as I cut the pipe but it seemed a sharpness thing rather than lack of the knack. (I remembered you saying to do this back on eBuild I'm sure). Just for peace of mind I'll grab some new shears for the sake of £7/8. Last used this pair for a few cuts on 25 mm MDPE that had been lying around and was a bit mud steaked. Maybe dulled the edge a bit. Perhaps keep one set for "best"!

Luckily the OP bought the Hep2O demounting tool when he bought the fittings.....seems a bit of an idiot to me! Still, it could have been worse "he" could have put the plasterboards on.....

Wouldn't it be really funny if "somebody" forgot to fit the inserts.....

OK, cutting this Hep2O PB pipe: Using a pair of "proper" pipe shears, well these in the link anyway, it cuts clean but leaves a slight oval - the pipe on the left. No burrs nothing. Using the normal 15mm copper pipe cutter (the disc type) it's more round but burred - the pipe on the left. The bloke on the Hepworth site video says to cut the plastic pipe with a normal pipe cutter used for copper??? http://www.screwfix.com/p/plastic-pipe-cutter-26mm/59590 Shears, shows the ovality better: Copper pipe cutter burred: The shears go through the JG white pipe like butter and leave it perfectly round. The Hep2O is much, much tougher to cut. How forgiving are these Hep2O push fit fittings to a bit of ovality? These shears btw did my UFH pipes perfectly. This is where Nick comes along and tells me a) To stop worrrying or b) To buy better quality, sharper plumbing tools!