Onoff

My guess would be it's because of building height i.e the 3rd storey that your BC are pushing for both fire doors and sprinklers. A good read of the Welsh Part B is in order.

God no! It's got to come out again of course! I'm hoping to replace the taps with Vado Summit if I can convince her down the line: (Of course the taps above might not (almost certainly won't) fit on where the adapters are as I think they need to sit on a dead flat surface. I can foresee a specially machined 316 st/st plate to sit over the adapters!) - Need to fill the hole in the slab I excavated for the rad pipes. - Need to paint the floor under the bath. - Debating sticking some thin (3mm) rubber discs under the 5 bath feet. Dampening / location. Not that it wobbles, the wife and daughter had a trial "lay" in it last night. - The foot nearest the internal wall corner I think needs a 3mm pack. - Overflow & waste needs to go on as above last lot of questions (any thoughts ref the CT1?). Biggest problem is the ply carcass: - I need to introduce a glued and pinned "upstand" the bath lip sits over. The tiles will abut this. - The "removable" half - tricky getting your hand in and around to the screws that separate it from the batten screwed to the floor. This is looking down towards the removable side panel on the long side. You can see the screw I have to get to, one the other side of the opening too. Might have to rethink and make some accessible st/st angle brackets: - The scallop out of the uprights that misses the bath side pipes needs to be made bigger just to give a bit more clearance (tighter than it looks): Oh, and I need to connect up the hot & cold in the loft and find somewhere for the waste outside to go....

The removable taps idea looks like it'll work:

I didn't read it that just because it's red it's high in iron only that'll it'll go varying degrees of red when fired...unless I missed something? "Regardless of its natural color, clay containing iron in practically any form will exhibit a shade of red when exposed to an oxidizing fire because of the formation of ferrous oxide".

Technical Note No.9 here is interesting: http://www.gobrick.com

...was only kidding about the raised letters! What about glazing the bricks, is that done afterwards or as part of the firing?

Just to complicate your life, I think RAISED letters would look good.....

Says on good old Wikipedia that sand is to prevent shrinkage: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brick

Great start! Just re-read that link I posted about the brick making. Presumably you'll add sand to achieve 30% min / 50% max sand content? What sand would that be do you reckon? And 7 days at 1800 degC!

Just a clay brick recipe I found. Interesting about how to test the clay: http://www.brighthub.com/environment/green-living/articles/45788.aspx Just wondering ref the letters, would you maybe stick them to the bottom of the mould, push your clay in then turn the brick out of the mould? Looking forward to the video!

You could link them to an occupancy switch or break beam so they open as you approach them.....

Well they look as cool as f**k for a start! And if they make the Star Trek noise even better. Imagine them in electrochromic glass! Remember it's not "Should we?" but "Can we?". And it's a talking point.

That link...so does the dog eventually learn not to run into them?

In Screwfix's clearance section they've 3 blinding Bosch cordless drills. A good deal if you just want a drill and not looking to build up a set of cordless tools: All 18V: x2 1.5Ah - £99.00 x1 4.0Ah - £79.99 x1 3.0Ah - £69.99 A respectable 67Nm too. EDIT: I have the 3.0Ah one as a general jobbing drill at work and it's really good, stubby too.

Can't see why the carriage charges should be higher than anywhere else, there's a bridge FFS! Makes interesting reading at 2 o'clock in the morning, the controversy surrounding the Skye bridge. Does it still feel like an island?

How about a sheet of plate glass and some log rounds?

Nah.....I meant length ways! Not so sure about the chipboard either Seriously though why not, it serves it's purpose. (NIMBY though).

Just seen these letters in Hobby Craft: Cheapo, hollow but surprisingly solid card(?) ones about 100mm high for 55p each: Then much tidier, solid MDF italic ones; 80mm high x nom.15mm £1 or 130mm x nom. 20mm £2 each. (There's a Hobby Craft in Romford btw).

Is it only me that's looked at at a stack of tile battens butted together and thought...hmmmm!

Didn't realise it was a holiday let..... The missus chose ours so I didn't get a say in it. If I'd have been on my tod I'd have considered doing it on the cheap: - scaffold boards butted together and biscuit jointed - cast concrete maybe with some nuts and bolts slung in as pinpoints of shiny interest - strip wood again butted and biscuit jointed

Google search "diy drywall lifter" and go to Images. There's a superb TREBUCHET style one. I think I'm in love!

I think I've posted a picture of me and my then neighbour doing my DIY imprinted patio with coloured concrete (ballast, cement, exterior PVA). I had cause to visit the the old place the other week. 30 years later & the pseudo "blocks" that make up the patio still look like new.

Same as the one I used too. Go for it.

I did say if desperate! My local Wickes has had in the past an area where they sell off cheap, broken and chipped 3m tops. If delivery is what £39 then get a long one. As forgiving as my pattern is the join is noticable to the touch with a finger tip. The bit that came out barely OK and needed filling and speckling with a black Sharpie were the mitres on the breakfast bar I made. Of course there is the fact I'm not known for taking the easy route...