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Onoff

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Everything posted by Onoff

  1. There's only 3 cans of foam cleaner, the other two are spray adhesive!
  2. Can't say I'll be happy to lose my storage corner:
  3. I've always fancied teaching tbh.
  4. O Level English Language, English Literature, Maths, Physics, Biology, French, Design Technology, Geography. I dropped German, History & Music. Let's just say that overall I squandered my educational opportunities I was more interested in scouring tips for old tvs, radios, lawnmowers etc than school. The 6th Form really wasn't for me and I couldn't wait to start an apprenticeship which at that school really made you look a commoner. I frequently now pick my son up from this or that after school study club etc and we've been to presentations where he's been top of his year. My father delights in telling him that he only ever picked me up from school due to DETENTION! I did love a scrap. Going round unis with him now though I feel I missed an opportunity.
  5. Worms/can! Do you mean intumescent mastic? Go for one that says specifically for cables like Rockwool FIREPRO - that's water based. I'd always dubious of stuff from "the pound shop" with a never heard of make that stinks to high heaven to boot and gives you a cheap high. On the expanding foams, Soudafoam's FR deffo says for sealing of "cable" penetrations. Again a quality brand. EPS beads or sheets sandwiching cables is the nasty one for T&E, to do with it drawing out plasticizers and making the cable brittle as well as gooey. I guess the same but to a lesser extent with SWA. And don't forget if you seriously thermally insulate a cable over 0.5m with whatever, then you need to consider its current carrying capacity. If it is getting warm then it'll make it all the more likely to attack from some dubious "mastic". Check out Wiska One Gel silicone based mastic that goes in a standard gun. Comes in a tube and is one part unlike their Magic Gel. Bumpf says it makes a water, dirt and GAS so I'd assume "air" tight joint. RS do something similar under their own brand. Then there's the fire "putties". Tbh air tightness is something I'm not over familiar with. With intumescents its just fill the hole up and you'll know it'll expand if there's a fire. Never worried before whether its air leaky beforehand!
  6. I was thinking the very same. Form the alcoves then tank AND tape. LIGHTS! You're forgetting lights! Just think how peed off she'll be when she finds she could have had them but you forgot to mention it!
  7. It was a Design Technology O Level for me. All getting clipped round the ear by the master if he could see your construction lines at arm's length! Had the small A3 drawing board at home with those funny little clips to hold the paper on. Then a full size drawing board. All long gone.
  8. A bit like when I was a college doing tray & trunking work. We were "forced" to cut all the mitres with a hacksaw then file them. The lecturer would hold them up to the light to see how the gaps looked and if he wasn't happy make you do them again. I thought "Sod this, I wouldn't do this in the real world!". I slunk off to the van with my bits and fired the 115mm grinder up. All done I crept back into class and presented them to him. He then proceeded to hold them up as an example of how things should be done! Still got them in the garage somewhere.
  9. I'm going to have to learn how to use Solidworks or Solidedge. I've received some assembly drgs as PDFs that were created in Solid Edge and you can rotate, zoom in and "explore" inside from within Adobe Acrobat. It would be marvellous for say drawing up my complex existing roof structure or plumbing and then asking for comment. My son is using Solidworks for his A Level stuff which my Solid Edge using foreign supplier reckons is "clunky but has become a bit of a standard goto". Which way to go? From the little I've read Solidworks is big on marketing and easier to learn but Solid Edge more innovative.
  10. You should see the other one...seriously, it's worse. But at least the other one is better! But with classic Fords fetching more than Ferraris at auction now... http://www.classiccarauctionresults.co.uk/ford-vs-ferrari-auction-price/
  11. Very nice that! I did wonder about that issue. First thought was to run the UFH up the wall and under the shelves. I didn't do that. I was half considering having the shelf on an angle so the water sheds of it's own accord and a level st/st mesh or basket or rods for the bottles to sit on.
  12. You mean like this? Yep, I'll be doing it in spades! Probably two vertical ones either side of the shower corner which itself will be mitred. The alcoves will be LED back lit of course. This is the corner: Already part studded out then @Nickfromwales posted a pic of one of his installs with a nice mitred corner!
  13. Pretty sure it's a 70, just to the left of yet another project:
  14. Oddly enough..... The house came with one of these buried in the garage. If ever I get around to playing with it I'll give you a shout
  15. Sheet metal and MIG actually: http://craig-russell.co.uk/demos/cone_calculator/
  16. Enough to do! Am actually thing about making a pair of st/st brake disc shields when I replace the discs later this week as the the old shields (and discs) are a bit ropey. Either that or I'll knock up a washing soda derusting tank and see how the old ones come out. Tbh it's the trailing arm bushes I'm not looking forward to!
  17. If I use the adaptor then I end up with TWO rubber seals there, all hidden behind the tiled in wall. I'd like to get a fitting that will take the 90mm Geberit pipe via push fit one end and have a 110mm solvent tail the other.
  18. Yep, it is a lot softer as you say. I don't reckon it will solvent weld. Not particularly shying away from using the Geberit bit just mulling over, with the sketch, ways of cutting down on the rubber seals. You mean this bit on the right: That fits into a push fit like this: So I guess one of these to start my solvent "run": I might be able to do away with the straight coupler in the sketch above and instead use a F/F Spigot socket bend glued straight onto the soil pipe. Don't know if I need two 30o or two 45o etc.Trying to avoid ending up with loads of spares!
  19. I bet that'll cut noise down a bit better than PIR or expanding foam.
  20. I just decant into a plastic sports drink bottle (Lucozade) and give it the odd squirt. If I use RTD or Trefolex I usually apply with a paint brush.
  21. Machine Mart do a gallon of cutting fluid for about £30 from memory.
  22. You can get diddy ones not much bigger than an SDS drill tbh. I asked for it from out of our yard to be told the little one had been nicked! Had to use the big beast. Still a magic bit of kit.
  23. Cheers. Just looking at DrainageSuperstore which is WAY cheaper than the random place I first found. Just trying to figure what's solvent weld and what has a rubber seal in from the pictures!
  24. Been looking through the Terrain solvent weld catalogue that @Nickfromwales linked. I have to go from the 90mm black Geberit pipe to 110mm brown soil: So from this at 90mm: To this at 110mm: I'm thinking this makeup so the only "rubber" seal is where the Geberit pipe enters. But I'm not sure on the joining piece between the two as indicated by the "?": Looking through the aforementioned Terrain catalogue and the only parts that appear to suit is say this Ring Seal adaptor for the 90mm to go into. But will it? Don't know if this will fit at "?" above or if I need a short piece of solvent weld in between. Then will the 90mm fit in the rubber bit or is it meant to take 110mm? Then a couple of these (the shorter ones) back to back: Followed by this onto the brown soil: Those bends are £18ea though I've yet to shop around! Cheers
  25. Looks like loads of fun and that the crew knew their stuff! Seismometer / seismograph / Jeff Goldblum with a glass of water?
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