Onoff

I read delinquent in there and have Ford Capris...

Just get it right! There's a ramp up from my dining room to the lounge. Previous owners built the lounge extension then knocked through to find they were about 100mm out! Same with the bathroom that floor was originally 60mm too high. There's a thread on here somewhere where the same thing happened on a big extension.

As an aside the HIVE cameras we bought to keep an eye on my Dad / his house, when he got ill, go offline in 2025. They weren't cheap either! https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/news/2022/07/hive-to-axe-its-cameras-over-the-next-few-years--meaning-they-ll/

Bedec Barn Paint? I've used it in satin black, amazing coverage and seems to do the job.

Don't they come with a lifetime guarantee, to be wrong forever?

I bet £200 worth of your electrical energy was generated by alternative fuels. Keep it.

As said I don't do FB. I'm on there as in joined to try and get on a 3D printing group and in fact have only one "friend" on there - the bloke who suggested I join the group. Never used it since. Just looked at that Poppy Calouri and could find no post from her on 25 Feb 23 ref her dad?

I don't do FB unfortunately.

I'm in Kent and might be able to help. Where in Kent roughly? I've three uPVC doors / frames here I bought cheap, s/hand. Need to double check which one I need to use. They all I think open out with the hinge the other side to your pictures.

I'd read the hot air gun was a bit pants and from the quick "holding against the hand test" last night, might agree. However, that was with a non genuine, clone battery, not fully charged. All I want it for is the odd bit of heat shrinking, on a roof where I'd otherwise have to run a lead. It adequately did the job on a bit of heat shrink last night albeit took longer than say my Bosch 230V would have done. I'll report back on that. Be interesting too, to use outside in near freezing temperatures. Had problems in the past trying to use low wattage soldering irons in that situation. As for the contact blade plastic block things they're ten a penny on eBay, AliExpress etc. For example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384280706764? I print mine, dead easy with 1mm copper for the blades. There's plenty of designs on Thingiverse etc. The tricky ones to get hold of are the sprung "finger" contacts that engage with these blades hence my salvaging them from dead batteries. Looking forward to trying the nibbler on sheet metal. In the pipeline is an 18V LXT to Bosch as I've just been given an old 24V SDS drill. Supposed to work well.

The "Mak2Par" Makita battery to Parkside tool adapter is done and works. We'll call it the prototype as I'm not 100% happy and will thus make some tweaks for the next one. So a PETG adapter to my own design. The supported side is a bit rough but that isn't seen as it's against the Parkside tool. Changed from the original PLA filament. The connectors are salvaged from dead, clone Makita batteries and engage with the tabs underside the Parkside tool. The battery tabs where they come through: Some 1mm copper tabs to connect to the Makita battery: Putting it all together with 14AWG silicone wires was a bit of a fiddly pig! See how the + & - cross over. I had to heat the copper tabs and push them into the PETG. The plan was a screw on cover plate to go over everything. You can see the 10k resistor that connects T of the tool to negative. Without that it won't work. I'll revisit this detail and allow some more space. With the adapter on the nibbler even fits in the box still! Will put some video links up later showing it working on both a 20V Parkside hot air gun and nibbler.

I did similar and used two BT home hubs, Home Hub 3s I think they were. One as the main router then the other as an extender. Works for other makes. This gives the gist: https://owenkelly.uk/bt-hub-extender.html The latest BT router we have gives better coverage so the 3's are consigned to the "might come in useful one day" box.

The relocated PSU all fires up as it should on the new connector: New, bigger fan is quieter. Haven't properly fixed the IEC connector on the base section yet: 12V wires just stuffed through where the duct will go when the enclosure sits atop. These will get tidied up:

PM me where you are roughly. I might know someone off the MIG welding forum.

Sorted. Removed the IEC mains inlet and switch on the 3D printer. Knocked up a little stainless plate and fitted a male Molex with the pins nicely spaced out. The PSU is getting mounted externally. All this connector has is 3 reds & 3 blacks at 12V from the PSU:

Ta. Gone with a set from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/IWISS-IWS-2412M-0-21-3-31mm²-Terminals-Connectors/dp/B08BLCJ5BP/ref=asc_df_B08BLCJ5BP/?

I got these connectors from Maplin probably 35+ years ago. I think they may be Molex or similar. It was when I was making quick release car stereo harnesses for mates so they could take the factory head unit out and fit aftermarket ones. Then quickly fit the original when they sold the car. I had a tool for crimping them once but it's long gone. They comprise a white plastic shell that you push the crimped M/F ends into. A shell below attached to the 3D printer: These are the female crimps: Can anyone point me at a suitable crimping tool? Cheers

For a painful experience see @pocster!

Spanish is it?

Could print some full infill, PETG packs/feet extensions. Around 700MPa I think.

Buy some 18mm ply and cut some squares / rounds to sit under the cabinet feet. Drill 3mm recesses in each with a spade bit. Give a good coat of pu varnish. Immovable 15mm packs.

Could that pipe be taken out through the gable end then empty into the car port gutter maybe? Then is that something I could do legitimately?

https://www.netflix.com/gb/title/81220971

Haven't looked closely, my brother sent it to me. It's on the CH.

The best bit it Dad was a BG pensioner, one of their own you might say. They took the header tank out and replaced with a small pressure vessel to make a sealed system.