Onoff

Do you hoover the joint before CT1'ing if rough surfaces? Two smooth say tiled faces I imagine it's just Multi Solve. I mean say you're sticking a pan down to stone. I hoovered the concrete before I placed the Aqua Panel edge down on it (Sika EBT in this case). Just figure the more loose bits you can get up...

I'd email them a copy of the letter too. Just say in the covering email you're sending this by recorded mail.

Only 3 years...lightweight!

Yep, give a dimmer a stab and it turns on a normal receiver, though there's nothing official I've found that says it works. Stab again and it turns off.

Or 4 Fords in various states of disrepair...

These dimmer switches I have, you can only switch them down, let go and it springs back.

Tbh they are function over form. You can get them only in white or chrome that they call "silver". The chrome style is supposed to wear off quite easy. The switch style is pretty much like those giant accessible switches...the whole front is all switch(es) They do 1,2 and 3 gang standard switch in white or chrome. You can't get the dimmers in chrome and they don't do a 3-gang dimmer. But they work.

Could you use a cheap car recharge kit with R-134A gas? (I know nothing btw). Edit: Further reading suggests not!

I've just purchased some Quinetic gear after confirming something that had been bugging me for a while but I've now figured. The Quinetic 2-gang wireless dimmer switch (QUD12W) bumpf says it needs to be paired with the appropriate dimming receiver (QUR301). It DOESN'T. The dimmer switch will operate the standard 6A receiver (QUR303) to give on / off, no dimming function. I went into TLC earlier and they didn't know but were happy to open boxes and we wired it up on the bench. So it works that one gang of the dimmer will control / dim the downlights via the dimmer receiver. The other gang of the dimmer will do the ambient, non dimmable lighting, LED strip and Bluetooth receiver via a standard 6A receiver. Guessing they just assume you will want to use dimmable kit with a dimmer switch so highlight the need for a dimmer receiver and don't mention it will also work with the standard receiver.

This just back. I was going to say nitrogen too so I must have picked something up from him! "Wouldn’t put anything else in but OFN (oxygen free nitrogen ) as all the others may have consequences Anything put in will require vac out to about 1 torr and some gases become explosive when mixed with fridge oil The only way to check the refrig side is to put some fridge gauges on it to assess gas levels Does sound short or possibly completely empty to me , compressor discharge should be to hot to touch"

Says Terry: "R410A is anywhere from £80 to £100 a kilo in this part of the world When he runs it feel the temperature across the drier and the check valve If there’s a temp diff the drier may be choked or the check valve may be stuck"

I just asked an AC guru I know from site, he wrote: "If it’s new and no refrigerant has been lost on installation then perhaps check the operation of the reversing valve as it can only do one operation at any one time If it’s going in through two circuits at once the compressor may shut down due to the transducer reading pressure/ temps that aren’t correct" Cheers Terry for the pointers if you're reading this!

Did two DG windows recently. Foamed the first and used Compriband on the second. Imo Compriband all day long. Better "seal", less mess, more flexible over time compared to cured foam.

Just ordered a bag of the £9.99 S'fix stuff @PeterW said. Also need to get one more Aqua Panel en route to S'fix.

I presume you'll insulate the pipes under the trap to mitigate any drying out effect on the shower trap?

And the euphemisms just keep on coming!

Could I just mix up some SBR laden sand and cement and inject with my mortar gun?

This one? https://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-floor-wall-tile-adhesive-grey-20kg/4367d And is it waterproof do you know? Cheers

Any suggestions from S'fix, Wickes?

I HATE Aqua Panel. I'll seriously consider NOT using it and going mrpb like our Welsh guru advocates next time. Dusty as f*** when cut, sharp on the hands etc. So much for 15mm edge distance, even with the proper Knauf screws it splits easy. Also if left leaning against a wall for months it takes on a curve A smidge of EBT and the now modified panel put on with the outlet hole moved: Trying to stagger the joints. About 5mm here: But the side abutting the mitre is a good 10mm: The Knauf instructions say to fill gaps with tile adhesive. Could I fill these gaps BEFORE tiling I wonder? Or again maybe something cheap on the adhesive / filler line but NOT Sikaflex EBT!

Single or double pole out of interest? Not saying it'll be an issue but poorer quality sockets can sometimes break down, crack and show brown marks if running hot i.e with a couple of heavy loads plugged in. But then saying that even the better known makes can be overloaded!

These: http://www.smjuk.com/products/thisProduct/30141

If anyone can point me to a Vado Summit bath mixer tap, with or without shower take off, for peanuts or less I'd be a very happy chap!

What Council is it?

This? https://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/bitumen-impregnated-fibre-board.html