Onoff

Copy the first one pretty much! Equispacing them looks good. Take a bit of time figuring how the bunched cables will lay too. I usually point the tail down or in whatever direction it's easier to get the snips in. You might be modding wiring in a tight panel for instance. Snip off the potentially eye poking excess tail too. However...beware the sharp ends that can still be present if you cut them off flush. End cutting pliers are quick and easy and many people cut them flush to the block with a Stanley thereafter. I actually use a pair of toe nail clippers, leaves a nice rounded edge. I've been told off before though as they're non insulated! Or buy a zip tie gun. Tbh I don't even know where mine are.

It's like CAD come to life! ? A few cable ties wouldn't go amiss...just make sure you get them all the same way around...

Finally got the knack of spreading this blue jam...

She hasn't got a sister and her Mum's nearly 90 ffs!

Someone on here said Cream of Tartar and I've read a handful of dry wall adhesive and even KETCHUP used as a retarder.

Big bonus is they're even funnier over there than you lot: "Mate, there’s good advice from two who know their stuff.Listen.Be a shame to bodge it all and miss the chance to bang her sister!" ?

Yet both British Gypsum say to use ThistleBond on MR and on the back of the Blue Grit tub it says specifically for MR. Worst case I cock it up and the BiL goes over it. Can't be hard. Lay it on, flat it off, fill in any low bits.

I've done a little bit in the past. A couple of 3' wide walls at the top and bottom of a landing in my first place and an 8' wide, full height wall with door and window in but that was 25 years ago. Only the odd bit of patching since. Going to get a 4' Derby.

Better to have tried and failed...

It appears Nick followed me: "Ffs! Mate, Sorry about this but by the sounds of things you haven’t got a clue. Just pay a spread to come in and sort it, small job like that won’t cost a fortune! And from the look of your job you are fussy and particular so why balls it all up now?"

How about building a lake and having a water source heat pump?

Not impressed at my first attempt at getting the Febond Blue Grit on the wall. Used a roller as they suggest on the tub. The effect was very hit and miss in terms of grit coverage and it didn't seem to want to stick to the mrpb very well. Also a lot of the grit seemed to fall off the roller to the floor. Scraped it off!

Guess you've already come across this vid?

Did you try and work it out on CAD first?

Read my edit! Did he buy it no! He made it and now has the fun of working out the issues! Been there!

I read it he was using a Trend jig at first. But no, home brew, top man! (Hastily edited )

Hypothetically, if I were to put the Febond Blue Grit on would it go on before the tape or after?

I've asked before but SWMBO won't let me make home videos...

Bugger! Meant to get the cream of tartar!

Ceiling first or wall first? Before that, tomorrow I'll do both with Febond Blue Grit. I'll make good the damaged area tonight with some tile adhesive. Just got one bit of death trap raised floor to board. Had to use some blocks at the front as I ran out of pipe off cuts. Made a nice cover for the bath out of some 30mm t&g chip with osb sides and lined with Antinox. Means I can stand on without it flexing. A washing up bowl to protect the taps:

You need to clean the wood first I think hence suggesting the teak kit which comprises a cleaner then sealer. Used on boat decks etc.

Near black I think?

Bedec Barn Paint to match the frame!

Isn't iroko a cheaper substitute for teak? Maybe this: https://www.force4.co.uk/wessex-teak-care-system-1ltr-pack.html? FFS don't use "teak oil". It's got nothing to do with the oil from teak and will damage the teak's own oils.

Looks cracking. Must have been great to have stood taking shots 8 & 9 and "feel" your home being built around you! The parallels with my own build are uncanny. That trench for the water pipe looks just like the one I had dug...