Onoff

I'll bleed again. Yes I hear the roar of the flame. Is the photocell accessible from outside or is it a case of taking the burner off? Assume carb cleaner will get the soot off? Motor starts, can't say I've ever heard the ignitor "crackle" or it "click". I'll check I gave the boiler stat a twiddle back and forth. Set between 60 & 75. Seems better.

Typical! ?? A couple of weeks after cleaning and power flushing the CH system then adding inhibitor, the boiler today is periodically locking out. As in you wonder why the place is cold and have to go and press the red reset button on the Riello burner. Only just noticed the problem tonight. - Oil tank full up. - Fire valve replaced with the last few years -Boiler stat replaced within last few years -Burner jet replaced within last few years I did bleed the Riello when the oil got topped up as it had run out completely so was air locked. Oil filter maybe? I'll check that tomorrow.

Didn't get very far today. Interruption after interruption. Cut the stud and blocked 3 holes up with some rounds of 3/8" pb stuck in with EBT (all I've got here). I'll chuck another bit of 4"x2" under that new horizontal one and wedge it on that big angled chunk at the bottom of the dormer corner 4"x4" post. Just don't know where the day went!

SHAT6 ?

Pretty much. Mental. The MiL was the same. Always look at the mother.....with hindsight.....? Conversation like: Me:" That window's leaking round the frame". SWMBO: "It shouldn't, it's double glazed!" My favourite ever when she was looking at a new car: "It's purple, how far's that?"

"They" being the next owners!

I did thanks but SWMBO wants them all to look the same. If not they would apparently annoy her...in this house! ???

The MAIN bathroom won't be finished by this Christmas! Geberit concealed / wall hung is the plan but "later" when I extend the dormer. I did just suggest it but she doesn't want to spend £195 on another Bernstein pan. FFS we probably bin that much in food that goes out of date every few months but that seemingly is OK. Chalk and cheese, she just showed me the new wipe clean wallpaper. Apparently it'll be good because of the leaking roof!

Holy Thread Drift Batman! & so it begins, the anti Christmas story... WC is now moving to the right. 1st problem there's a stud in the way. I'll be taking that out shortly with the multi tool. Let's hope the corner of the dormer doesn't fall down ?

Laddo's at uni and I sit down to wee. Must be one of the girls! ?

Unfortunately this is looking to be a "goer". Just measured from the centre of the downstairs WC to the tiled wall and that's 450mm. Losing 2" of that would still work i.e 400mm centre to wall. Watch this space. I'm going to try "But you'll lose the towel rail!" Always thought it super unhygienic there anyway. (I always get one from the cupboard).

Looking like this thread title could change! Is 790mm too narrow a recess for a WC? Thinking elbow room etc:

FFS! The antiquated en suite... ceiling (Artex), walls ( 3/8" pb) and floors (18mm non moisture resistant T&G) need replacing. That's let alone if I extend the dormer a bit. Replacing the WC just now and SWMBO pipes up "Could we do the shower?" That means move the dividing wall to the right to incorporate the sliding shower doors I got originally for the downstairs bathroom before I decided to go for the wet room corner. Whatever we do there's a risk of the failing flat roof above undoing everything. Only saving grace is the sliding door set is for a 1200mm wide enclosure. Dodged that one for now I think!

I tried...and failed. That is to say it worked using either nichrome or Kanthal wire. It sailed through foil faced PIR with ease. The big BUT was the wire kept breaking and eventually the random wall wart psu I was running it from gave up the ghost. I say random, I did do some VIR maths taking into account the length and resistance of the Kanthal. I imagine a thick enough wire with bfo, current controlled supply would work a treat.

The intent is to keep the rads upstairs. Issue?

Thanks all. How many people can I "like" at once?

In all seriousness, if I had a lot of thick PIR to do I'd experiment with grinding a hacksaw blade to fit into a jigsaw. Then grind the edges like a serrated knife edge. I reckon you could set that up on a table and cut square. https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-T313AW-Jigsaw-Blades-Serrated-Knife-Edge-Pkt-3-/353015428545?ul_ref=https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?

At 125mm, even with a table saw you might have to flip your boards over. Maybe a "standard", very fine toothed large dia table saw blade (like 300mm) would be better but with really good dust extraction.

Centrefire blades are designed for this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bullet-Tools-Centerfire-Poly-ISO-Insulation/dp/B00RT0H66A I'd still use dust extraction. For the odd hand cut then the genuine Celotex, pink handsaws are great. If you can find one! Not sure they're still made tbh. They have serrated teeth. I have bought & tried the Bahco insulation saw that has a "wavy" blade. Not great imo on above about 50mm, better for say Rockwool batts. Cutting pir square is key so less gaps to fill with squirty foam! Saying that some people deliberately cut it 5mm under and foam fill.

Following on from my last post, why the 2 port and actuators?

That's actually very helpful thanks. The Nu-Heat actuators are in fact solenoid operated valves then, controlled by individual room stats potentially?

Do I need a 2 port zone valve for each then?

Correct me if I'm wrong... In a new, purpose designed, low energy house you would have a limited number of UFH zones? As in the roof/ceiling, walls & floor fabric is the same detail room to room. In a dodgy old house like mine with different room constructions I'm thinking there's benefit to having each room as it's own zone? Each room then having its own stat.

Never mind, I'll draw one up and get my lad to print when back from uni: ?

Some black spray later...looks better than in the photo...