Onoff

Yep, stainless steel everything or over time they'll all rust and blow the concrete aside from leaching rust down the staircase. He has been warned.

I take it back. The A to B piece isn't too short! On another forum someone suggested an X brace in the form of A to the bottom of D and then B to the bottom of C might be better. Some fun working those angles/cuts out!

I've already cut piece A to B...too short!

Wash your mouth out Sir! Another unfinished project is about to commence!

I've been and grabbed one of the late FiLs wheelbarrows. Best out of 4. Not saying the metal is thin but if we're talking biscuit tin then they might as well have used the plastic tray that holds the biccies! First thing I did was ditch the tiddly front wheel and put on a solid, never flat type. Puts the front up and back down like a Capri with sagging leafs but works for me. However, fully loaded with soil and the whole bloody thing is live and flexes like mad. It needs bracing. I'm thinking between A and B for a start. I've some donated 70x25x2 box that should drop in there nicely. Was saving that for a router table but I think I've another couple of lengths of it. Then between C&D, E&F. I can use some of the tonne of 25x25 I've got. The barrow frame is 25mm dia so if I Starrett the box it should fit nice and snug. Sound like a plan? Fire up the MIG...tomorrow maybe!

Barst...

That's it, take advantage of me when I'm at my lowest! You really know how to hurt a man!

Do so but don't trust the architect. The liability will come back on you even if they advise badly.

Self isolating after a positive test I sent off my PCR test in the post this morning. Hoping I'm over the worst of the cold like symptoms. So bored and banished to the garden during the day (I also have shed, garage and stable options). Decided to clear out the (previously clear) dug out bit next to the shed: Seriously considering a slab, dwarf walls in brick or block the pallet walls. Someone pull me up on this, current shed is 10' wide, 8' deep. If I go with what I've got then the add on shed will be only 4' wide by 8 deep. Worth bothering? Determined to keep moving and not let this bloody virus take hold. Hopefully being double jabbed it stays as a mild dose! Best I think I've felt today, just down to tired and achy now. Voice a tad hoarse still.

No, it was Doon, Ben Doon...

It can be a pig to get pir to fit tightly between floor joists. Some people cut them boards 5-10mm short on the width then fill with expanding foam. An option is using mineral wool instead. @Ferdinand did similar I think with his Little Brown Bungalow refit? A few pointers here. https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/post/best-practice-approach-insulating-suspended-timber-floors Whatever you decide or get told, post up here. Someone will have seen it before and likewise comment as to good/bad.

That's my bedroom thread you're thinking of.

Bloody handy I never got round to gutting the en suite. I'm going to be living in our bedroom on my own for the next however long whilst Covid takes its course and until I test negative. Clearly, it pays to delay!

That's the last time I let you bung me a short length of pipe!

In the case of a knock down/ rebuild or a really large extension, as a self builder I think you would want to apply for exemption from the CIL before any work commences?

I'd bung you a short length in the post with a couple of inserts but I don't think anyone wants anything I've just tested positive for at the moment! A clue, it's not twins / @pocster's

I only mean inserts both ends on the short horizontal pipe. Is there anything written on it, maybe "Hep2O"..."15mm"? When the red pipe came off, did you notice an insert in the end of the grey pipe, (they can be metal or plastic)?

I'm guessing they didn't do this though / fit two separate opds.

You do for the short bit of pipe!

I'm a bit lost as to where the 50mm air gap is? Is this a suspended timber floor? How deep are the existing joists? Cleverer people will be along shortly. Just Google "routed chipboard UFH" and go Images. Use btw 22mm boards not 18mm. Putting underlay then carpet direct onto foiled EPS is a bad idea btw.

Wouldn't you put routed chipboard on top of the EPS? Then underlay and carpet atop the chipboard?

They use a piezo sensor that picks up the "noise" of rain drops hitting hit and sends a close signal. (Mate got a major touch allowing his house to be used as a show home for them!) This help? https://www.yarddirect.com/blog/Reasons-Window-Lock/

You're supposed to use a metal insert in the ends of the grey plastic pipes. It sort of reinforces the end where it goes into the plastic elbow. Indeed it would help at the red rubber pipe junction: Or as said above use a short bit of copper pipe instead of the plastic (going into the red). As an aside if you haven't already then invest in a cheap Vernier type caliper, invaluable for measuring pipe dia etc when asking questions. Random link. You can often pick up Lidl/Aldi for a tenner: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LEDLUX-Professional-Stainless-Digital-Caliper/dp/B08ZJDVPLJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?

That's because a decent sparky will only strip enough insulation off as necessary, double back the ends properly maybe, not screw down onto the CPC sleeving instead of the copper etc. A novice doing this could make for potential faults needing finding and sorting after the dead tests. Saying that some "professionals" make a hash!

A proper Rawlplug puffer is far, far better than blowing out the holes with a compressor or using a vacuum. https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-hole-cleaning-pump/6995F? You can get a special brush too.