Onoff

With these MVHR systems don't you / get given calculated air flow rates then use an anemometer at each "vent" to set up? That's what most on here seem to have done to balance things. There was one floating about for loan on here...

Next July it'll be 30 years here.

Use cutting compound when you drill and you'll at least double the life. A smear on hacksaw & bandsaw blades helps there too.

Chalk and cheese. Those DeWalt ones are superb (& I can't stand DeWalt).

Tile first. Then CT1 the base to the finished tiles. Imho.

I used those Easy Drive screws to affix 9mm ply to my steel, wall hung Geberit frame. I didn't pre drill from memory.

+1

Is your neighbour: A) Elderly B) Retired C) Got **** all else to do D) Likes to have the last word E) Frets about the small things F) Possibly a member on here ? ?

Landlady was saying to me all the upstairs floors slope. Murder tiling the bathroom floor recently she said. Don't suppose Part A was a thing in the 15th century... ? It doesn't look too bad from this angle. 6.2% Audit Ale is lovely btw.

TechFast screws are designed to fix light timber frames to steel and will self drill the steel. They take a Torx driver. Even a girlie DeWalt cordless should be able to put them in ?

I found it very easy to line up Astra 1 but Astra 2 was a pig to lock onto.

Same here.

It's unfortunately de rigueur round here for people to drop in a sump pump and take off the "liquid" generally when we have heavy rain. All to save on emptying. Some to$$ers with ad hoc pits will do it in the height of summer. C****! No thought for anyone downwind of them. Like the Wild West still in many respects. The whole place was once know as Bidonville with good reason. I don't btw. Had it properly emptied a couple of years back.

To get rid of the visible crack I would: Dig out the grout. Half fill the bath. Redo with white C-Tec BT1 and tool it flush with the tile. https://www.toolstation.com/bt1-tribrid-ultimate-bathroom-sealant-adhesive/p74523? That's BT1 not CT1. Let it set.

Nope. Didn't like the gaps between stones in the lower panel so pulled all the flints off the mesh. I now have the joyous task of picking all the silicone and knocking all the resin off the back of the flints. Interestingly the earlier ones in the top panel, that I cable tied onto the mesh, have now set. Cut the ties off and tbh they're ready to be "grouted" with the mortar gun. That is once I put back in the ones that fell off initially! In the top panel the flints are much better orientated and their faces more flush with the surrounding brickwork. The aim all along is roughly a fingers width between flints. It certainly helps being able to see the face of the flint and tweak it.

Each to their own! ? I've just done some PCBs for a lad on another forum who's making a dub siren.

Welcome. The only d&b I like is some stuff by Pendulum. The Island is a choon! Is it because they're Australian it sounds different? As for jungle... You should build a brick museum, you've got the materials for the walls...

Well...chucked in some M5 stainless studs with more of the crappy (but free) DeWalt resin. Ran a full nut down then another st/st washer. Then hinged the board with the stones on into position and hooked the mesh over. I thought I'd worked out the studs so they would project in the gaps. Nope, got 3 out of the 6 wrong! Had to bend the other 3 to miss the flints. Once on then another penny washer and full nut. The fun is getting your finger in and winding the back nut further in to push the flints further back. I don't think I'm happy with some of the spacings. Might mess around with the bottom left.

Yeah the mods will pick up on things like that, it won't be received well. Might even dish out a ban and you'll have to go through the proper channels to coax them into letting you back in.

The two corner reflector / trough antennaes I've made for neighbours work an absolute treat on DVB-T and then some. Horizontally polarized. A bit large at these frequencies. One is made from galv mesh the other from sheet ali.

A thread I put up about a mate's install: Two of my 3 identical frames showing the components: Maybe some of the pics here on p7 with the post-its stuck on the pipes might help for sizes:

That's just taking the mickey.

Pretty much what I have: The black into grey is push fit: The grey straight to grey bend, grey bend to grey bend then grey bend to brown straight joints are solvent weld. I made the mistake of using brown, "underground" pipe instead of grey . Although all pvc the brown is a bit more "rubbery". I used gap filling pvc cement there and even then went over the top with a smear of something. If using push fit always have the male above the female fitting on the slope.

You need to try new things even if destined to failure. You've always been rigid and unable to move fluidly... ?

Because these flints are quite thin as in not fist size "blocks". Many are basically conical. They've been selected for their feature face rather than suitability for a "wall". Just don't think I'll have the "sticktion" with straight mortar. Hence trying to find something super sticky. Flints are notorious for being impermeable. If you use a cement based mortar it will shrik away from the flint leaving it "rattling" around in there. Water gets in the gap between flint and mortar, freezes, blows and the flint falls out. A lime based mortar retains flexiblity which is why it's traditionally used. I'm using a part lime mortar mix with modern admix. Once in I'm going to overpaint the whole lot with some sort of a sealer. Hopefully that'll creep into any gaps and aid them staying there. Where no man has gone before etc!