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Even if I varnish/treat them?

Good floating suggestions too. Anchoring is a must, as wind will push them to the edges. Last year, 9 of the 12 chicks didn’t make it because their nest in the reeds wasn’t secure. So we will anchor the house to make sure they’ll be safe.

I was thinking empty bottles. I’m going to make the house from reclaimed pallets. Once I have the weight, I’ll think about buoyancy. will post pics and a video.

I want to build a floating duck house for our mallard family that reside on our pond. I’m struggling to find any decent designs. Also what is the most environmentally friendly and eco means of making them float. Thanks in advance.

In essence, we're struggling with keeping some rads consistent - some nights they're great on others they're cooler than they should be. For this rads, should I "slow down" the exit (closing the exit valve) to keep the heat in longer or should all rads throughout the house just be fully open. This is doing my head in.

As part of our master bathroom refit, we were going to replace our extractor/vent fan with a better unit to assist in getting steam build out as the one in there now is a cheapo from the previous owners. Never appreciated it would lead to significant heat loss if they’re too good. My reaction to your calculation was mixture of awe and confusion.

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. After doing some research, I built my sawbuck/sawhorse this week and documented it in this short video.

Pipes have been capped and bathroom is just about fully dismantled. Phew.

Thanks Peter. Does the flow rate affect the efficiency and temperature of the rads? Ie. Would a reduced flow rate make the rad warmer or colder?

Is it a fair assumption that rads nearer the pump will receive priority (more pressure) when open than rads much further away? And what happens if I completely close an exit valve - will the rad heat up?

Forgot to add the handle image.

I have another dodgy handle we’ve come across. Have taken it apart but can’t see anything obvious that may be affecting it.

Thanks guys. Massively appreciated!

I want to remove our shower today - how do I cap the pipes that come out? They are copper pipes.

Thank you. Will try and balance things. This may seem an odd question, but to close valves it’ll be righty tighty, and to open them turn left.

The exit valve on radiators can be opened and closed. Should this valve be fully opened or semi-closed to generate the most heat bearing in mind that we have an ASHP with a flow rate of 45C? My reason for asking is we have two rads that are not consistent in heating rooms. One some days the rooms are great on others they are significantly cooler, which is odd because they all have smart TRVs and should be heating to the same temperature everyday at the same time. I was wondering if the exit valve had anything to do with this?

Thank you. Your feedback and comment is greatly appreciated. You might be interested in the performance review too: I’m presently working on an autumn review to see how it fares as the temperatures start to drop. Additional info here: https://myhomefarm.co.uk/air-source-heat-pump-efficiency-and-performance-review

Good tip. If it happens again, I’ll do that.

No, there isn’t.

Just waiting for the pipes to get capped and the ply is coming up. Terrified to see what awaits below given some of the construction and DIY quality in this house.

Took the screws out - this revealed a bolt (similar to those in door handles) which appears to have slid back into the frame preventing the window handle from working. Pulled the bolt out and fixed the window handle in place and it’s all working again. Phew. Thankfully, the gears inside the window are working perfectly.

There are no water or rad pipes under it... I will continue the controlled route tomorrow... what’s the best way to remove the old ply? I’m guessing crowbar? Or should I cut it out?

I did consider that... I’ll do that tomorrow.

The Allen nut just roared both ways, endlessly; on the working one too.

yikes. Not the answer I was hoping for.