joe90

1/ Can I ask that question again. As mine appears to be working the other way, heating means three way valve is powered to supply water to A 2/ The three way diverter valve IS plumbed the right way round ( A for heating, B for DHW) I am about to re set all the parameters on the command unit but I am slowly getting my head around this now. (I am stuck indoors as I have injured my hand ?)

I tried to search for a diagram on tinternet but could not find one (I am laid up with an injured hand and ordered to rest ?) I only found this which has a drawing showing a pipe exiting the plant to connect the blower, page 3, hope it helps. https://mpcservices.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/Clearwater_PS_2011_8pp_1.pdf

Thought I would check the loft even tho I told the wife nothing could get up there, and found something had chewed the expanding foam sealing the loft from the cavity. Set a couple of mouse traps with my best Red Leicester and BINGO, within 4 hours had caught a little field mouse, I have left the traps up there in case it was not alone. RESULT.?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Butlers-Bell-Brass-BLACK-IRON-PULL-Full-Kit-Similar-to-Byron-62500K-/230834119650?hash=item35bec923e2 @Roger440 gosh, they have come down in price since I bought mine ? P.S. I stained the white string black with boot polish!

2mm dia string fed through 2.5mm hole in fibreglass rod (old tent pole) from plaster to outside of brick skin, brass cover on the inside has 2mm rubber grommet for string to go through. I deemed this an acceptable cold bridge and break in the airtightness.i had thought about making a rubber diaphragm fixed to the string but think it’s overkill.

68 years old and all the spares are still available (and I don’t need a computer to diagnose any faults!) ? P.S. I don’t have an iPhone.

I quite like being a Luddite, less to go wrong. A recent visitor liked our new house and commented on our front door bell being reliable and nothing to go wrong!, well I replied, the string could break but I am sure that could be repaired.

What is the make of your treatment plant Christine?

ours didn’t smell at all, I think I remember from years ago that septic tanks needed a starter and kit (bugs) but this is not mentioned in the vortex blurb. I got a treatment plant “person” to set it up. Ours (Vortex) has adjustable valves to regulate large and small bubbles, the chap had a vortex himself and is very pleased with it and recommends them to others, he is booked to come back soon (6 months since it was installed) to make sure it’s all working ok and adjust as necessary.

When I applied for planning permission I was told which areas were RPZ and told to get a survey, how much ????, I simply stated I would fence around the areas pointed out at 1 meter high so no building work, vehicles or building materials could impact on the roots, this accepted.?

So, he’s a structural engineer as well as a PITA.? I once ordered an inspector to leave my site at once for trying to change lots of things that had already been approved, them went to see his boss, he did agree with me that he was a bit over zealous and assigned a different inspector to me ?.

I would have paid that back then as the payback period is reasonable but like all new things they come down in price (like P.V.). I was just willing to take a punt on an Ebay offering (I don’t usually gamble but thought it was worth a go).

Do you know what it is/was?

Forgive me for digressing but if anyone is going to build over “old” stuff why not dig it up and preserve it elsewhere or document it? I think there are too many listed buildings, yes keep a few for historic reference but !!!! (hard hat at the ready).?

Like @ProDave my “Ebay special” ASHP will be paid for quickly (if I can get it working properly?) then give us cheap heating/DHW.

Mine is Fairly similar in that I am using an immersion in the buffer tank to run my UFH and the house is toastie (no data or probes but SWMBO is happy), will get the ASHP up and running when I can but no rush. There is a case for direct electric heating in a well insulated house, very little to go wrong and minimum outlay.

None of the diagrams for my ASHP show a bypass valve and I cannot find a reference to one within the ASHP. As I have a diverter valve not two two way valves there should be no time that flow restriction will occur?. Answers on a post card to.........

My plumber did not instal a bypass, I have put them on “ordinary” heat systems in the past. If I remember @ProDave had a problem with his bypass the way it was installed!!!. Is it a good idea to fit one? Especially if I have to drain the system down to sort the 3 way valve. I would rather drain it down than introduce more relays etc .

Thanks, it works, just the wrong way round and I don’t want to drain it down unless I have too.

No, blew it up connecting the remote room stat cuz I had duff info from the supplier ?

. the head was fitted when I received it, it’s a Danfoss, it does appear the plumber installed it the wrong way round, can this be corrected by reversing the head or do I have to drain it down and swop the plumbing over?

Ha, oh no it’s not ?. ASHP is running, pump running, three way valve operating all ok BUT, the three way valve is sending water to heating via A, if I disconnect the 3 way valve it directs hot water to B which is connected to DHW tank. I just turned the pump down as it was running full tilt and an alarm has come up, turned it back up and alarm reset. ?. My brain hurts.

Ha, that’s one mistake I won’t make again!!!!, cost me £££££.

Great, the good news is I am actually getting warm water from the ASHP. The bad news is the programmer I bought for DHW (for when and if we get E7) is faulty so that’s why the stat was not calling for DHW (easily fixed). I am going to let it run for a few hours then I will try to get heating working. THANKS GUYS ?

My wiring diagram shows no connection to 18 and Jeremy,s note above says “if three way valve has spring return do not use 18” mine is spring return hence no connection to 18 (I suppose). right, during testing with a multimeter the 3 way valve is no longer activated ? i have checked all the parameters (100 to 158) and noticed I can only set 113 (heat water set point) if 100 is set to 1 (fixed water temp value dry contacts) do they refer to dry contacts as remote room thermostat or tank stat?. I tried setting 100 to 4 as I want the command unit to act as room stat but if I do I cannot set the (113) water temp (113 simply not available). the GMC board is flashing “normal” but the ASHP will not kick in for heating (temp set high to force on in warm house) or DHW and I have drained all hot water and set tank stat high to call for heat. i have noticed that the “schedule activated” icon (23) on the command unit is flashing but there is nothing to say why?. Managed to get the ASHP to fire up and pump running by shorting 13 and 15 on the ASHP so appear to have a wiring problem within the house.