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joe90

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Everything posted by joe90

  1. joe90
    Yes I used semi rigid and far more easy to install pulling it around bends and no joins.
  2. joe90
    Yes you will need a trap to stop smells coming into the house, just pushing the WM waste hose into this is fine https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-washing-machine-trap-white-40mm/18640
  3. joe90
    I had to create a temp fence on my build about the same size for root protection, I used farmers fence posts and sheep fencing, council tried to get me to get an arborist survey done (more money) but i rang the councils own arborists, told him what I did and he agreed it was fine then told the council their own chap agreed. Job done.
  4. joe90
    These are the best I have found and the screws are removable/demountable. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-hollow-wall-anchors-8-16mm-m5-x-52mm-10-pack/12229
  5. joe90
    Please report back as good fixings on PB are not easy (IMO)
  6. joe90
    Yes being MDF it’s prone to breaking , try this
  7. joe90
    Ah 🙄
  8. joe90
    My worry would be weight! Books are heavy and those fixings small, especially through plasterboard (what’s behind it?)
  9. joe90
    Large piece of cardboard covering the back of it, poke holes through marking the fixings, hold cardboard against the wall and mark for drilling 🤷‍♂️
  10. joe90
    Even JH didn’t get it completely right, if I remember correctly his calculations didn’t take into account the local weather patterns (valley that trapped heat) and he ended up needing less heating and more cooling than the figures projected. I on the other hand (being a Luddite) did no calculations, copied other people’s principles and with paying attention to the detailing ended up with a comfy house that was cheap to run.
  11. joe90
    Better then going to a gym 🤷‍♂️
  12. joe90
    Welcome. Lots of info here from folk that have been there done that . I built to passive esk standard (but no certificate) whatever materials you use my opinion is its success is down to the fine details (installed well and correctly). I don’t particularly like “plastic” insulation however under a slab it’s about all you can use, I used Rockwall elsewhere and like blown cellulose insulation. Keep us posted 👍
  13. joe90
    I used to be part P registered but no longer, whoever I would never leave a wago and tape after sign off, temporarily during work maybe. Your builder sounds a good chap, let him sort it.
  14. joe90
    Are those two flues yours or your neighbours? The front one is strapped to your dormer! Using Mortor to waterproof to slate is not a good idea, lead flashing would be better.
  15. joe90
    IMO you need an SE or building control to advise what they will accept.
  16. joe90
    I liked my ride on mower 🤣
  17. joe90
    I had to sell my “forever house” due to divorce and the buyer got a retrospective warranty, not all lenders will lend using this but they are out there. I can’t remember the actual cost but not more than 2k if I remember correctly. Frankly has long as building control sign it off that would satisfy me.
  18. joe90
    Whether she is stressed or not it’s her responsibility, plod on with building control it’s their decision. If they decide it’s not right they will deal with it. Ignorance if the law is no excuse.
  19. joe90
    If you have their consent I believe it’s the best solution fir both if you 👍
  20. joe90
    If it were me I would remove their guttering and facia board, new insulation and run the GRP as high as possible then replace cut down facia and guttering.
  21. joe90
    IMO, get the drains in and let your briky sort it out, he will have done this before.
  22. joe90
    It’s already full of sheds, greenhouse, workshop and garage 🤷‍♂️
  23. joe90
    Looking good, slightly jealous as I always wanted to build in straw. Well done.
  24. joe90
    Hire a core drill and a decent machine.
  25. joe90
    https://www.lawinsider.com/dictionary/party-roof#:~:text=Each wall%2C roof%2C fence%2C,regarding party walls or party 🤷‍♂️ I am sure most don’t bother
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