ToughButterCup

From your description of the YT video, your spec is higher - so the likely answer is that you dont need noggins. But, you may feel you need them anyway. There's next to no effort required in placing them. When @Onoff mentions a crack, he probably means a hairline fissure that only his gimlet eye can see.

Thanks so much..... Cant fault the logic behind your point. Just thinking about that very thing as I jumped ( well, stumbled) out of the trench a minute ago. Its only 1.5 meters from the final I/C to the digester - just checked the fall from the I/C to the tank and its exactly 1.4 degrees - bob on. I feel a cunning plan coming on.

No, it's solvent welded in. That fracture that you can see (above) at 7 o'clock relative to the pipe concerns me a bit. I think I'll carefully file that flat to the circumference.

Yes, I can do that. Send Debbie in the tank. Easy. (No, really, it's an easy reach into the tank.) What a bloody good idea. Top suggestion! Thanks.

@PeterW is this OK to use as a 'stub' ? I ask from the point of view of the air pressure test - maybe the rotating cuff (?) leaks a bit ...?

This Ok Peter?

I bet makeup remover wipes work too ..... tee hee.

I think I might have some CT1 : is it that super sticky and smeary as the proverbial stuff - grey?

Nearly there with the Trans Lancastrian Poo Project. Not far off connecting up (about 4 meters). Heres the connection hole I rang the manufacturer to ask how I should connect up. I was suprised to hear that it's OK to use silicone. Whassa hive opinion? Silcone or solvent weld?

Sorry @Kirk, it needs to be so polished you can see your face in it.....? (Damn - I wish I'd seen your post earlier)

+ 1 Billion. I appreciate the priviledge: we had our application accepted - our neighbour refused (at Appeal). People who emphasise luck may well, I think, be referring to their fantasy of what self-building could be.

I'm very grateful for your post because thats often what I feel. Its the first few minutes of almost every day that are the hardest: pick up yesterday's cockups and postponed items how the Hell do I do that ? - (that one NEVER stops) what am I forgetting? couldn't I do that cheaper, better, faster, neater? And yet, I am deeply concious that many would give their eye teeth to be able to do what I'm doing. We are, as a group, immensly priviledged. Thank God for a supportive partner: without her I would have gone under long ago. BuildHub helps us stay sane too. Looking at those images of yours gave me a bit of a boost. Thanks. Ian

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Too far away from you to help, but here's a cautionary tale for you.

£1880 quote from a one person plaster company for two rooms, together they are about 10 by 6 by 2.5. Wet plaster.... And he gets too much work (he tells me) "Ah tell thee lad, there's sum coin round ere"

Thanks very much. An extremely useful post. Ian

@Adam, who's the SE? Is the SE a specialist in designing for you ICF? I ask because when I consulted the specialist SE for my ICF, he halved (or more) the amount of rebar that had been suggested by the original SE. If your ICF is Durisol, I may be able to point you to a specialist SE. (If he is still practising)

It might be a bit easier than our local tame Overthinker (above @Russell griffiths) thinks ... The water company will give you a specification to which you have to lay your pipe. That's a given. (600mm locally) You will also have an invert level for the foul drain outflow from your house, and a target invert level for the sewer (or treatment plant) to which you want to connect. Assuming (at a guess) you want a 1 in 60 or a 1 in 80 slope (17mm or 12.5mm per meter respectively) then it should be reasonably easy to calculate whether the two services will bump into one another vertically. In our case the invert for the foul drain was always much deeper than 600mm (at least 1330mm below ground level). So, if we had to put both services in one trench, then we could always have separated both services by at least 500mm vertically. Dont forget the warning tape.....? ... like I did.

How exposed is your property to wind? We found that battens - in some places - weren't enough mostly where the local configuration of the build accentuated the wind effect. It was its lifting effect that caught us out. Annoying really because I should have seen that coming - done quite a bit of sailing and flying. I solved the problem by using tie-downs fastened to two or three eye-holes in the edge of the tarpauline (tied to just one, the rope ripped out PDQ). We made the tie-downs out of old mayonaise tubs filled with concrete, and then stuck a dog tie-down in the wet concrete. The handle of the tie-down makes it very easy to lift, reposition and fasten a rope or ropes. Keeping the covering material taught is an art: its like timming a sail or a wing. It needs constant attention. When I forgot about it, the ceaseless flapping drove me nuts. Especially when the wind decided to blow at 3 in the morning.

Deciduous trees will be the main annoyance if you do.

+ 1 to all that..... And if I may add this cautionary tale - think about how to fit the last joists.

My wife just smiled (code for appalled - on some days - only just starting to learn which ?)

Well Gary, if you two can't do it at rock bottom prices, nobody can.

You ask about delivery of web joists to France. I'm willing to bet that the delivery costs from the UK will exceed the 'cost' of finding a local supplier.

Bienvenu! I wonder if you would be kind enough to use a sans serif font ? I ask because sans serif fonts make legibility easier for all. Verdana is a commonly chosen font - it was designed specifically for on screen viewing.