Hilldes

Here’s my thread from a few months back. It depends I think on what type of suspended floor - mine was a ground floor, beam and block.

£493. Very reasonable I think given there were two men and two vans on site for around 5 hours until well after dark.

Got the "LETTER OF CLAIM" from UK Power networks today for damage to their equipment "...caused by you or your agent's negligence.". Guess how much £?

Thanks @Rob99 The instructions that came with the lower blocks don't mention the upper blocks and the upper blocks don't come with any instructions. I'll order the enclosure now I know what size the 100 blocks are and then progress the CAT6 wiring.

So now I have the 110 blocks... @Rob99 would really appreciate your guidance on how to use them.... As in the pic, there is the main frame which has what appear to be plastic 'gaps' that you could insert an IDC tool into. And there are the small separate blocks shown loose in the pic which have metal slots in. Can I just check please to use the main frame with no metal parts I would need to strip two wires and insert both into the plastic gaps to connect them? - sounds a bit hit and miss. How do I use the loose items with metal - they look more like conventional IDC connectors so can just use an IDC tool to insert the un-stripped CAT6 conductors, but how do they mount on the frame? Also any good practices to share on how how to secure the CAT6 cables as they enter the enclosure would be appreciated. P.S. got all the kit installed in the Loxone cabinet and wired a few lighting circuits and have the heating controls done in Loxone also. Very impressed with the simplicity of Loxone Config and the mobile app so far. Will post a few pics when I'm a bit further through.

I was looking at Ubiquity from the start of this thread in 2018. I found it was hard to locate the best product for me from the manufacturers web site and when looking on retail sites all the reviews seem a few years old which made me wonder if I’d be buying old stock. After reading reviews on line I bought two TP-Link EAP225 V3. The V3 is the latest version I believe. Haven’t used them in the new house yet, but been running one from the BT home hub in the new house plant room via CAT6 to the caravans and coverage seems very good across the two caravans. Very easy to setup too - don’t even need to enter the Wi-Fi password of the router when you connect to the router via CAT6.

Many thanks @Rob99 and @joth just what I was looking for. Will order and have a play over the holiday period.

Lower cost block at TLC, and can have 5 blocks in this enclosure. Ideally though would like some way to have more blocks in a larger enclosure where I can also add cable constraints.

Looking to make a purchase of "110" IDC terminal blocks to go in a separate enclosure to manage the incoming CAT6 cables and bring only the needed twisted pairs in to the Loxone cabinet. For the "110" blocks this is all I can find, it looks like the IDC connectors can handle CAT6 (i.e. 23 AWG). Not sure though how to mount these blocks from RS in a enclosure... @joth I know you mentioned 110 blocks, do you have any experience of implementing them?

I used these - quite happy with the quality and price: CAT6 https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CACAT6LSF.html https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CACAT6.html Sat: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CAPF100B.html

Thanks @JohnMo I did goole a humidity meter and bought one that I don't trust (measures humidity in the air). What type of device to I need to measure at the floor surface?

yes, to be honest to is almost dry and if we fired up UFH it would be applied very gently. It's more a question on the heat source.

Hi all, We've had a self levelling compound poured on our concrete slab (technically a Webber thin coat screed). Average depth is 5mm. It was poured over 3 weeks ago and patches are still not fully dry and humidity levels in the house are over 85%. We need to get engineered wood flooring fitted ASAP (glue down to screed). The plan was to fire up the UFH to dry the thin coat screed, but it has been a real challenge to get the plumber to connect up gas and commission the boiler - and today he tested positive for COVID. Any ideas please on how we can dry the thin coat screed? MVHR - I tried running this for a few days, but because it is not 100% efficient, over hours and days it just dropped the temperature inside close to that outside - probably too cold to dry the screed. Industrial heater hire - while this will warn the air, will it dry the screed? An alternative heat source for the UFH pipes?

Thanks, @joth really helpful. I suspected it was logic in Loxone Config - this will save time and head scratching.

Thanks @joth. I got a quote from whitening a few months back for the 16ch dimmer at around £480 that is £30 per channel. Low cost though compared to the Loxone dimmer at around £120/channel. On the Aliexpress S1-DR vampire load, how will Loxone know that a dimmer is not in use? When this is detected, you use a relay to break the 230v Live supply at bottom left on the unit labelled "AC100-240V Input""? P.S. I would be interested in some the spare S1-DR dimmers you have if I go down that route. Will PM you.

@joth How did you get on the with Aliexpress DMX dimmers 12 months later? Can I also check please, is it correct that just these items are required for 230v dimming: Loxone DMX extension S1-DR AC Triac DMX Dimmer 2 Channel Note the 240v triac dimmer you originally linked appears out of stock, but the one I linked here looks equivalent.

@Temp that is no bad thing as in our case the single claim presents a cash flow challenge as we will need the VAT reclaim to complete the project and would have to forgo any further reclaim. I wonder if our grass roots VAT inspectors have been informed.

Here is what we have wired for 'day 1'. We have actually wired one Salus auto balancing actuator per manifold as spark though it might affect the Wunda wiring centre without any. All decorators caps are left open on the other UFH circuits. The wiring is complete but waiting for gas to the boiler before we test.

Thanks @Rob99, @Dan F and @TonyT. I see it now does say 17 A for the 1mm2 on the TLC web site and RS and Doncaster concur on the maximum, although only Doncaster cables mentioned this is the in free air figure and the derating for a 10 cable bundle is 0.48 so giving 8A in a cabinet. So my 6A figure is within. A bit naughty perhaps of RS and TLC not to mention derating. In practice, the kitchen diner downlights is one of the larger current circuits with 15x 8W 230v LED downlights and will only draw 0.5A. Although there are some 5A round pin lamp sockets that may ultimately draw more depending on what is connected to them. The writing on the TLC cable though did not mention current unless it was hidden in a code, likewise the cable reel did not...

Thanks @Dan F, what reference source of information are you using to determine maximum current for tri-rated tables? Thanks @TonyT I've bought tri-rated cables and looking for a source of reference on what the max current should be for specific cable CSAs.

The next question on this journey is back to the panel wire...and what is the maximum current that should be designed to flow. I know there are many variables here, such as whether cable is separated or grouped, ambient temperature etc. From googling this I see a range of max current values for the two types of stranded panel wire I have, but to be safe I'm going to assume this: 0.5mm2 Max 3A 1mm2 Max 6A Is that about right?

makes sense, thanks @Rob

Thanks @Dan F I did look at the terminal blocks that had the earth terminal connected to the DIN rail, but they all seemed to have features such as a test function which I was not convinced connected the L or N terminals permanently. Yes I think all the Loxone extensions will fit easily on the two middle DIN rails, leaving the bottom rail for 24V PSUs and 230v RCBOs.

Ok so now I'm goggling "strain relief (shielded) cable clamps" as well as 100 blocks ? Yes I generally ran one CAT6 cable per device (e.g. retractive switch, PIR sensor). Having seen the plaster board being fitted I became convinced I was going to get screws through cables so wanted to minimise the impact of that. Not that expensive for the cable in the scheme of things but more effort to run the cables. The only exception is bedrooms that have a light switch at the door then a light switch either side of the bed - in this case I ran a single CAT6 cable to the room and then on to the other two back boxes and will wire them in parallel. Like the idea though of one/two CAT6 drops per room.

Ahhhh now I see what you mean. I've got the Wago double height. Thanks @TonyT