Hilldes

Thanks @Russell griffiths - I'll look at the cost of these products. Thanks @Mr Punter - I knew there would be a good reason for it ?

Thanks @Mr Punter! So apply render base coat and mesh to the XPS and let it dry. Then apply slates with external tile adhesive? [Stupid question alert] what is the purpose of render base coat and mesh - why not stick slate tiles direct to XPS with tile adhesive? Assuming the XPS is well fixed and the joints are flush?

Thanks @Russell griffiths - I might render it. You are rendering with EWI226 onto EPS? And you are using one coat of EWI226 as a render base coat, then fibreglass mesh, then EWI Mosaic Render for the top coat?

Has anyone experience of these products?... XPS INSULATION Finnfoam AQUABASE – EWI-226 as an adhesive for the above @Mr Punter, on another thread, you mentioned using natural slate tiles, with adhesive and mesh on the insulation, then the tiles. What adhesive and mesh products did you use please? Was it EPS/XPS insulation or PIR?

Many thanks for the drawing and pics @Iceverge - I can see the benefits of good drainage around the foundations. I'll do some reading up on french drain construction. P.S. how wide is your gravel section - looks about 30cm?

more information on floor build up here... One reason for applying insulation externally is this from the insulated floor system BBA cert: "8.3 To minimise the risk of interstitial condensation at junctions with external walls, specifiers should ensure that wall insulation extends to at least 150 mm below the bottom of the EPS infill panel." - which means extending >= 150mm below the bottom of the pre-stressed concrete beams.

Thanks, will lap the breather membrane over the EPS. More detail shown here - the floor is an insulated beam and block suspended floor...

Are you happy as drawn or would propose something different? EPS going higher up the frame above DPC? I drew the chamfer because I thought if and water drips on it it will run off rather than settle. Also I need to maintain an air gap below the render board for cavity ventilation. Would need to use thinner say 25mm EPS if I cut it square and still overlapped the sole plate.

The frame and rendering is complete... I first drew the timber frame breather membrane overlapping the EPS, but then I thought if the EPS gets saturated (although not sure it physically can), that moisture will sit against the sole plate. I was thinking that with a conventional two skins of masonry foundation wall (cavity filled with concrete), then the whole section of wall will be wet below DPC and DPM. Why is my blockwork wall any different? Why would I need a french drain? P.S. We do have clay in the soil so it doe not drain too well. That was my understanding too of the purpose of a geo membrane - e.g. to wrap soakaway crates. I only drew it on my foundation detailing because I had seen it specified there before. Not sure it is fulfilling any purpose here.

Should the external EPS bridge the DPC?

Looking for some input on the specific products to use and the detailing for the concrete block wall below my timber frame. There have been number of posts in this area, but mine is looking at some of the details - e.g. what specific types of membrane to use and and where. Here is my draft detailing drawings: A few questions please on the specific products: The 50 mm EPS is OK? EPS is glued to blockwork with Titebond? Or screwed with SS screws and plastic insulation washers? The geo textile membrane could be this: Wrekin Multitrack. Should it just cover the outer face of the EPS? Wrap the EPS entirely? What is the purpose of the geo membrane anyway - as EPS does not absorb water??? The covering (e.g. ubiflex) is glued to the geo membrane with Titebond??? Pebbles - between paving and external skin - are these only required by those with passive slabs that need land/french drains?

Thanks for pointing it out @Hastings. I’ll have a look at other areas of the house to compare. All joists have noggins where they meet internal and external walls, but I’m not sure about the timber you refer to mid-joist. The joists were delivered as cassettes which May explain it.

I think you are right, I've not done a calculation, but I suspect going from 25mm deep battening to 50mm would not lose that much headroom/usable floor area. Right now, roofing batten (25mmx50mm) is though substantially cheaper than alternatives.

I have a 25mm service batten in vaulted ceilings. I've bought a few of these lights for evaluation: https://www.screwfix.com/p/aurora-slim-fit-fixed-round-led-downlight-500lm-9w-100-240v/1906p Above have alloy body and given off a nice diffused light, but are non dimmable. The CEF ones Nick quoted are a good price, but spec does not say if they are dimmable. If anyone knows of similar recessed shallow flat panels that are dimmable, please share a link. The alternatives are these which are dimmable, are switchable warm/cool white and also give off a nice diffused light: https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-indopro-fixed-fire-rated-led-downlight-satin-nickel-450lm-9w-240v/8969x ...but the above need to be tested in the void available as they are bang on the depth limit. P.S. VCL is the taped surface of PIR for us.

I think I must be the only member of Buildhub that does not have an ASHP - I really wanted to go down that route but my time limitation and cost prohibited for now, but a potential retrofit. Instead I have a new technology that derives energy from rotting vegetation that has lied dormant for millions of years ?. On the call for heat of the heat source that will be handled by the Wunda wiring centre for options that use this (it will operate the relevant zone valve, manifold pump and call for heat). In the full Loxone control option, the zone valves, UFH pump and call for heat will all be fed from Loxon relays.

Thanks @Rob99, that is great practical advice and much appreciated. I'll probably go down the route you suggest or even with no actuators initially as Joth has done (need to get the lighting scenes sorted first ?). I was not sure I could justify £1,900 on Loxone tree actuators.

Thanks @Onoff really helpful pics and a very nice job too (especially the soldering).

Can't see any grub screws, but looking down inside the threaded section it has a hex shape opening, so will try to remove from the chrome fitting. Thanks also for the link - much appreciated.

Thanks Jack, will do some research on theses products.

Thanks, that is what I'm now thinking based on Joth's post. I guess though, as soon as a manifold serves more than one zone then each circuit/loop on that manifold will need an actuator?

Thanks @saveasteading and @Onoff. Have you got a name or link to these fitting please? The right hand one looks like a regular outdoor tap bracket. Trying to figure out how they will attach to the chrome parts I have.

Hi, just finishing installing shower mixers and trying to stay one step a head of the plasterers. the shower mixers have two wall mounted outlets - one rainfall head and one shower hose. They both have half inch threaded connectors for the pipe which has washers and a nut that fixes to the rear of the board that will be tiled. I was saying to the plasterers we can't board the back of the stud wall behind the showers until we have tiled the shower area - as there will be no way to access the nut to fix the shower outlets. Plaster said in all cases the plumber just exposes the threaded fixing through the wall and the outlets (chrome parts) are fixed from the front later, after tiling. Here is a pic of the kit I have... Does anyone know if the brass threaded parts unscrew from the chrome parts - so the brass item can be pre-fixed to the wall? If yes, how can the brass parts be fixed in place - a second nut? I've used exactly these products before, but had access from the rear of the stud wall for fixing.

Have no cooling and no blind automation. Have installed MHVR but no plans to integrate. So Loxone basically controlling lighting and heating.

A very good question. SAP is 85 B, so quite well insulated. And MVHR I think moves air around the house so making zones less isolated. I hadn't thought of not having zones. So right now you control each floor manifold via a single stat?

Looking at options for controlling UFH (and DHW) when the house will have a home automation system (Loxone in my case). Options range from conventional UFH controls, where the HA systme is just a glorified timer to... making full use of availble HA controls. The UFH system has 12 circuits on ground floor and 11 circuits on first floor, all with Wunda premium manifoods and pump sets. There are 12 rooms that will need a room stat in each. Here is an analysis of some options... @jack, @joth, @Rob99 what have you done in your implementation(s)?