Hilldes

Ah you found it. There is actually 3rd level of escalation to the logic. If the motion sensor detects a “super collossal movement” then sound the alarm siren to alert the neighbours too. I wanted to see if anyone actually looked at the detail ?

Had not thought about weather compensation as yet. My thinking was to avoid cluttering walls with kit so use the Touch Pure temperature sensor and avoid a room stat. That’s the theory have not tried to configure as yet. That of course is only rooms with a Touch pure which won’t be many with not much change from £200 each.

I had the training booked and paid for but could not attend as the first lockdown hit last year. When I asked when the training would be rescheduled I was told I could no longer attend if I did not have a qualifying business already (e.g. electrician) and the fee was refunded.

I've seen schematics posted in other ares of Buildhub (e.g. heating and plumbing) and found them really useful. I've seen some very nice HA cabinet pics, but no schematics (you know who you are ?). I've not seen a schematic for HA, so here here is one I have just created. This is a Loxone based system. I've bought various components for a proof of concept but not got round to hooking them up in a test rig as yet. Where I am is... clear about the major components but less so about where they actually sit (e.g. LED light PSUs in the main cabinet or with the light fitting). Also still thinking about the types of cable to use - again less sure about lighting. Still uncertain about the feasibility of some integrations e.g. last time I looked Alexa voice control of Loxone required sign up to a third party service. What I'll do ultimately is refine the design and produce a full parts list with links if anyone is interested - I always find these useful. Let me know what you think... Schematics v0.1.pdf

Cheers @jack I'm working on a schematic which shows what I want from the automation and how I'll connect it all together. Will post in a few days and it would be great to get yours and other's views. Some really good posts in the last few months - e.g. use of DMX, which I'm digesting at present. I plan to work with the electrician who installed our site and caravan supplies - he qualified in the last few years and keen to experience HA.

Thanks @MikeSharp01 message now sent successfully.

Thanks @jack I get this message when sending the PM:

Looking to buy some more Loxone kit for my build (I bought the first batch of kit for a proof of concept about 12 months back from Loxone when they still sold to non-partners). There have been a couple of pointers on here: @Rob99 allegedly can't receive IMs? Spider electrical - struggle to load the web page and when I do the email address given gets bounced. Any alternatives?

A little more about the roof build up. Eaves ventilation: this is the eaves ventilation specified by Marley. I'm assuming the eaves rafter roll goes under the breather membrane as shown in the pic. My roof has no sophits so it would have seemed better to have a continuous breather membrane from the external walls and up onto the rafters. If I now move the single breather membrane up onto the counter battens and then lap over the eaves rafter roll, then that creates a gap in the breather membrane at the eaves - is this normal? For the felt support tay, I'm guessing this is needed more for roofs that have no habitable space and the loft insulation extends into the eaves. In my case with insulation filling the rafters, it just the counter battens that ensure air flow over the insulation (but I'm still unsure what is stopping the mineral wool insulation expanding into the void created by the counter battens) . I'm sure this will all get sorted if I use a professional, but still not fully sure how to detail if I do it myself.

Yes, that is the message. I'll check what type of membrane it is and then maybe move it up above the counter battens and just use the one breather membrane. Still deciding whether to get a pro to tile the roof or DIY if pro costs are too high or they cannot schedule when we need them.

Thanks @Temp, yes pretty sure they are providing a membrane on the roof - a comment that it will be losely tacked down and a suggestion to have the roofing done ASAP after frame erection completes. The insulation between the rafters will be mineral wool. I'm not sure how to stop it moving up between the counter battens - I guess the lower membrane if pulled tight would do that?

Hopefully, will be tiling the roof in the next few weeks. I produced this detailing a couple of months back based on searches on here. I'm still wondering if I have the right detailing for the membrane(s). Doe this look right - having two breather membranes on the roof: the lower one (yellow) fitted by the timber frame supplier. This sits on top of rafters. There is no sarking board. Insulation is fitted between the rafters immediately below this membrane. the upper one (green) is fitted between counter battens and battens. This one is lapped over the fascia vent as per roofing felt Do I really need two membranes? Can't locate it now, but sure I read one of the purposes of the counter battens is to lift the breather membrane off the insulation between rafters. The lower yellow membrane will rest on the insulation ?. Not shown on the diagram but there will be a VCL on the onside of the roof make up.

Thanks all, I don't know any plumbers so will see what the pro is happy with in terms of where he ends and DIY starts.

I plan to do most of the heating and plumbing as DIY. Will feature a gas boiler and UVC. We know the pro will have to install the boiler and UVC, but where exactly is the best place to connect in what I have done with DIY? For the UFH, I've confirmed to the pro that I will install the pump set, manifold and pipe runs, the pro can maybe install the heating zone valve and I connect to that? For DHW, I just tap into the UVC (I'm assuming the G3 requirement relates to the primary circuit)?

Thanks @TonyT and @Russell griffiths, much appreciated, will tie them. Not specified by SE as it is part of a structural concrete topping on an insulated beam and block floor, A142 specified by the floor manufacturer, but no details on how to tie it.

Many thanks for the link Tony! So the sheets definitely do need to be tied?

I though I'd resurrect this rather than create new post... Where A142 mesh overlaps (got that as 450mm min for A142 from LABC site) is there a need to tie the two sheet together? If yes, what wire do I need?

We have a similar problem right now - based just outside the M25. The Soil Investigation reported no water in any of the boreholes (in May last year), London clay from 1.5m below ground level. For the piling earlier in Jan a few of the 32 piles had some water and only one pile had so much water it failed. Then onto trenhching for the ground beam and the trenches fill with water (from then ground not the sky). The groundworks contractor dug a well next to the trenches and put in a pump that runs 24x7, that keeps water level low in the trenches, but does not eliminate it. The plan next week is now to blind the trenches with a thin layer of concrete - not a cost we had budgeted for.

Thanks @DevilDamo that gives the orer of materials as I expected - i.e. VCL inside the insulation and breather membrane outside the insulation. Interesting definitions of cold and warm roof (albeit flat roofs in the link), that would make may pitched roof a cold roof and I've always referred to it as a warm roof ?.

@DevilDamoIs that the case where the insulation is on the outside of the rafters? If not the VCL would be in the same location as the breather membrane? I thought the point of the VCL is to stop moisture from the house interior entering the building fabric. @Moonshine My warm roof spec is from outside: breather membrane, rafters filled with mineral wool, 50mm PIR across inside of rafters, VCL, 50mm service batten and plasterboard. I know 50mm service cavity (+ plasterboard and finish depth) is going to be tight for downlighters etc. but we need every mimilmeter of headroom. Its a 1.5 storey with vaulted ceilings upstairs. Might move the VCL above the PIR to avoid heat damage from downlighters. We will have MVHR but the ducts run up through internal walls.

That is a good point @Brickie - I was assuming the drip bead/bell cast on the render would throw water down the front face of the brickwork. Not sure how I would seal given there needs to be be a ventilation gap with insect mesh between the render board and brick.

Thanks @Temp what finish do you have above the plinth brick?

many thanks @PeterW for the alternatives. Will check out the blue bricks first.

Thank @Brickie - so staffordshire blues are the blue/grey engineering bricks? Like the idea of using any facing bricks then some form of cap or tray on top of bricks going behind the render board. Might get a bit pricey with lead - got a 60m perimeter. Any alterlnative materials?

Thanks @PeterW will maybe order a few to see how they look alongside engineering bricks.