colin7777

Need to now order door linings and can see there are trenched and untrenched, I can see the difference between the two types. The trenched linings are quoted as 838mm, the doors we are looking at are as 838mm 2ft 9in. How safe is it to guarantee that doors and linings will be actuate enough to fit correctly. I don't want to trim the door as they are prefinished If I bought untrenched will they have to be trenched or can the uprights be butted against the top lining. Looking at primed linings.

My architect has shown the DPM on the Beam and Block floor, then running up and over the course of bricks and then the sole plate placed on top of the DPM. To enable this the DPM will need laying before the timber frame is installed, if this is the case does the DPM need to be protected to stop it getting damaged while the Timber Frame is being installed. What is the best solution or am I not understanding his drawing ? Colin

We are building in North Norfolk and discovered they have not implimented CIL, it is no wonder that there are massive amount of new properties being built in the area by large building companies, not sure where everyone is going to work as employment is already struggling in North Norfolk.

Our approved planning application did not raise any questions as to any turning circle. We once built will be living on an un-adopted private road and have no way to drive in and out in forward gear. The highways had no comment as it is a private road, all they commented on was the access from private road to public highway as to if it was suitable for an additional 2 cars capacity. No guarantee that this is the same view in all planning departments.

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Hi All, Sorry tried to remove but couldn't find how to do that so just taken out content.

Just received a quote for block and beam floor and wondering if it is a fair price. 150mm deep 'T' Beams total of 28 beams total length of 75 metres £837.85 100mm wide Slip Bricks quantity 207 = £72.45 Medium Density Lightweight Infill Blocks 53 square metres £537.95 Total £1448.25 Exc VAT Install price £895 Exc VAT Thanks Colin

Would appreciate if anyone can recommend 2 or 3 block and beam supplier, if possible close to Norwich. Thanks Colin

Since initial post I have been shown this option where the Block and Beam are mounted within the I section of the Steel Beam, has anyone else built their foundations this way. Anyone see any problems with this method.

After many months working through Timber frame companies and foundation options we are very close to making a decision but just looking for some views / clarity as to the foundation / floor insulation. We have to have piles due to being by a river that will have a steel ring beam. it is a small one and three quarter property approx 13 metres by 6 metres and looking to use block and beam. We are not aiming for a highly insulated house, walls have an estimated 0.16 U, and ceiling has an estimated 0.13U. The timber company can supply the floor insulation and have quoted 90mm Kingspan kooltherm K103. Does this seem a sensible thickness to get a balanced U value for the property, would there be any benefit to increasing the thickness for comfort / cost benefit. The bedrooms are on he ground floor and we have decided not to have UFH . Their diagrams show that the timber frame would be placed on two layer of bricks which I guess takes up the insulation and screed height, I was expecting the timber frame to be fixed directly to the screed / Block and beam. One thing that puzzles me is how everything is going to be held down if brick is used: Timber Frame Sole Plate DPC Brick Beam and block Steel Ring Beam Any ideas, comments, experiences, do's and don't or any views on any aspects welcomed. Colin

How do they calculate the council band that the property falls in as I understand current tax bands are based on property prices many years ago.

Maybe a non starter, but has anyone taken pipes through the inner service void area on external walls and then out through the plaster rather than up through the floorboards. This would make it so much easier to keep the floor clean and less chance of the pipes being bashed with the hoover.

Trying to design kitchen layout, looking at having eye level Oven and Grill in tall unit but struggling to design where it should go in relation to Hob, Tall integrated Fridge/Freezer and Sink. All diagram I can find only show the typical triangle and never shows where to put an eye level oven. The area is 3500 x 3100, no windows just one roof light approx where I have put 'RL' in diagram. Not the best of diagram below but hopefully it shows shape of area. Wondering if to wrap any units round where it opens to the lounge. Ideas appreciated Outside Wall ________3500___________ 3 | RL 1 | This opens 0 | into Lounge 0 | |_______________________

How does Concrete slab compare to Beam and Block on cost, weight and insulation. We have a ground floor area 12 metres by 6 metres, it needs to be on piles with a steel ringbeam as water has to be able to flow through in a flood situation. The gap from soil level to ground floor level will be approximately 500 mm, so looking for best solution Thanks Colin

We put in for a Non-Material change requesting a small change to the 1st floor to extend part of the property to align with the rest of the 1st floor structure. The forms were accepted and I have been given a NONMAT application number. I have now received a letter stating that the statutory period ends on 25th Nov which makes it 4 weeks from when the application was agreed. They then make a comment that ' However if a decission is not made within this period I will assume that you agree to an extension of time, if you do not agree to extend the period please contact the planner within 14 days'. Do NOMAT chnages qualify for a refund of payment if they do not meet the dealine and is this a crafty way of avoiding any refunds. Welcome feedback as how should I approach this, will questioning the timescale cause problems between both parties. Colin

Thanks for the replies, it does have to be natural slate, looks like Spanish wins the vote, would welcome feedback as to best size to use and also what price I should pay for natural slate tile. Thanks Colin

We have to use natural slate as part of agreed planning condition, it will be a timber frame one and three quarter height building. The roof pitch is 30 degrees and the area to be tiled is 12 metres by 6 metres. Noticed that slate prices vary drastically and also there are many sizes of slates available. Looking for recommendations as to tiles to use, best size of tiles and hopefully at a reasonable price. Welcome comments as to if you only get what you pay for and what problems do the low price slates tiles come with. Are the online 'warehouse' type supplier anygood or can people recommend suppliers. Thanks Colin

Kim, look to see if anyone else near has had a flood report done and see what the report is like and if they got the planning approved maybe asking for a quote. When I asked EA I got the feeling that they would be looking for all the reasons to say the area was not suitable for building on, you have also then put all your cards on the table face up

Do you have bats ? if you do I would do as much cleaning up of the ground as possible prior to the survey

You can build on F3 ground, just need to be clever with design and make the flow of water around the building acceptable to EA. A decent hydrologist should be able to help with that. Not true in my experience, I thought just placing a building on piles would eliminate the planning problem but rules are rules and common sense doesn't come into play.

Has anyone used roller latches for internal doors rather than the traditional door lever latch type.

So today applied Dulux Trade Quick Dry Gloss (water based) paint to panelled doors with a wood grain effect. Used a synthetic brush as it says on the tin. I would probably class myself as an average DIY painter so wasn't expecting to see my reflection. The paint went on easily, I wet the brush with water but didn't spray or wet the door as worried it may run too much after reading some comments. Yes the paint is thinner than normal oil based gloss. Best way I found was not to load too much paint on to the brush, this stopped the brush dripping. The finish is very good, not the shine you get with oil based gloss, but if you are a skilled painter I think with a bit more paint it would shine more but wanted to avoid runs. My main aim was to stop the yellowing that I found on a couple of doors that were painted around 3 months ago with Dulux Gloss. I found a little trick, if it is getting too tacky just go over the area with a paint free wet brush and then the paint loaded brush very gently. I use brushes as I just cannot get on with rollers but I am sure a roller would work well and obviously a lot quicker. Not sure if I could paint a flat door with a brush without getting brush strokes showing, but lucky I don't have any of these. Colin

Just ordered Dulux water based paint, will update once completed all the painting and the experiences and any disasters along the way. After further research it is the lack of light that makes oil based paint yellow and I had always thought it was the Sun that turned it yellow so Oil based Gloss is propably best to use for external use. Colin

Hi All, Looking for recommendations on the best gloss paint to use on internal doors, painted doors around six months ago and they are starting to look yellow, I thought this was a thing from the past with paints. Non smoking house and and no sunlight gets directly on to the doors. Thanks Colin