Russdl
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Everything posted by Russdl
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I’m at a loss. As I said I’ve asked him to confirm twice if we need fire doors, he’s insistent that we do though I haven’t pointed out how pointless they will be. Do you think I should? IIRC the regulations didn’t really fit around what we have designed and built, if I push too much we may end up being forced to enclose the staircase to the loft and/or close the loft off. Probably doesn't make much sense, I’ll dig out a drawing to highlight what we have.
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You’d think so wouldn’t you, but that hasn’t been specified which makes the fact they are fire doors pretty pointless, especially as pocket doors they will spend most of their life open.
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Its because our loft, whilst for storage only will have a fixed staircase and will be open to below on the staircase side. Ive asked BCO the question twice and he insists.
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@Mr Punter it is to be painted and the weight is a concern. IIRC I can go up to70kg (or was it 80, I'll check before I buy)
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@Mr Punter You make me feel like a clown! I did that Googling thing and most of the 2440x1220 blanks I found couldn't be trimmed down to the 2300x1100 that I need. That last link you sent seems like they can be and then be re lipped. Straight back to Googling school for me.
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These drains up being relatively pain free, just me overthinking it as usual. The only real problem I had was going from an 80mm down pipe to the 110mm drain over a short distance with direction changes. I couldn't find any suitable adapters and then a friend of mine (sat over 2m) away grabbed one of these that I had lying around and pushed it inside the 80mm down pipe. It turns out that the diameter of those two rings on that FloPlast bend is pretty much exactly the same as the internal diameter of the 80mm downpipes so I put a bead of sealant around each of those rings, forced it into the down pipe and it is snug as a bug. I know fitting that bend into the down pipe instead fitting the down pipe into the bend is not correct but hopefully the Bodge-it-and-Scarper solution will stand the test of time.
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We have two large pocket doors in our new build, 2300 x 1100. More accurately we have big holes where the pocket doors will go. We're using Portman FD30 pocket door kits and sourcing the FD30 door blanks is proving to be difficult and eye waveringly expensive. Does anyone know a good source for oversize FD30 door blanks?
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To update this. I contacted our BCO and explained that I thought our architect had made an error in calculating our soakaway requirements. He had drawn two, one north of the building for a roof area of 110m2 (4m3 of soakaway crates) and one south of the building for a roof area of 80m2 (2.8m3 of soakaway crates). The initial response from the BCO was mild confusion as to why there were two soakaways to which I had no answer. The second response was "...Can’t see why the design for the 100m2 soak away is not ok..." in other words, he was pretty vague about the whole thing. So I responded by telling him I'll put 3m3 of soakaway south of the building and he's happy with that. What I've learned is that calculating soakaway size is really straightforward if you use the 'rules of thumb' and a real dark art if you try and include percolation results in the calculation. It would also seem to be a dark art for my BCO (either that or he couldn't be arsed to enter all the data he had into his spread sheet?). I've also learnt that watching water drain away for the percolation test is therapeutic but otherwise a complete waste of time.
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Timber Frame PLOT 1
Russdl commented on Red Kite's blog entry in Self Building two in North Wiltshire
Looking good, and some excellent upcycled stairs there. Fingers crossed that it’s plain sailing from here on in after your early problem with trades. Regarding the damage to your glulam, sometimes MBC ought to just slow down a bit it would save them time and money in the long run. We had several return visits where they had just not taken the time to do it right in the first place, but they never quibbled about returning and fixing things. -
@Adam2 thanks for the info. Interestingly it’s starting to appear to be pretty random from project to project.
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Wow!
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@redtop Thanks for those figures, they seem as wrong as mine. Or maybe they are both correct and I just haven't fathomed out how the figures are determined. From what I've gleaned so far, a roof pitch below 10° is not factored in anyway so your Effective Roof Area would be 200m2. With no percolation test then I guess you would use the standard calculation to determine the required soakaway size: Area x (Rainfall Rate/3000). Rainfall rate for the UK would appear to be 50 (thingamabobs) and the 3000 is, er, I've no idea. Anyway 200 x (50/3000) = 3.333. It looks like you should have 3.3m3 - so pretty much bang on what you're planning on.
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The leaf catchers I'm planning on using? Good to hear if it is, do they splash much? Dependant on rainfall I suspect. Very little, but I'll be going 'round the corner' as that is a 'dig free' route that needs backfilling anyway.
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Thanks Peter. That's pretty much what I will be doing but I left a bit of the detail out of my original post to keep it simple - I think it just made things more complicated! The idea that came to me (below) after I posted the original question is I think the one that will work, according to the tape measure anyway. We'll see what tomorrow brings.
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I hadn't, no. I'd only ever considered the drain following the line of the house. Not sure why. Ignorance I suppose, plus following the footprint of the house would require no digging (just back filling later).
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I've got these leaf catchers which is a slightly different take on the same idea.
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I've edited the original drawing showing the location of the 2 slot drains that need to be incorporated into the drain run as well, I thought I 'd leave them out for clarity but that seems to have backfired!
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I should have said, but I was trying not to over complicate the post. I have to go round the long way round as there is also a slot drain at the back door, just before the 90° left that will also join the drain run. I have leaf traps for all the downpipes and plan on using a silt trap prior to the soakaway. To do the 90° bend and get downpipe 'B' in on the act, could i use a 45° bend, then a 45° equal branch (with the branch sticking up to take the downpipe) followed by another 45° bend?
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I have three rain water downpipes A, B and C that need to get to the soakaway. Starting at 'A' it looks easy, an 87.5° bend, into the drain pipe and away she goes, en-route to 'B'. The first obstacle to negotiate is the 90° left turn which I presume I do with two 45°'s. I then end up in the vicinity of downpipe 'B' where I have another 90° turn to negotiate plus I need to incorporate downpipe 'B' into the drain run. What is the easiest way to get a vertical 68mm pipe into a horizontal 110mm drain that is just about to turn a 90° corner? Is there such a thing as a 90° bend with a spigot coming out of the side of it? (Image edited to show the position of the slot drains that will also need to join the drain run.) TIA
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Where to buy composite cladding
Russdl replied to Robert Clark's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
@Robert Clark We did manage to beat the advertised price down, can't recall by how much though. -
Where to buy composite cladding
Russdl replied to Robert Clark's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
We got ours from Envirobuild We love it. The chippy hated the thought of it because it wasn't real wood but he ended up becoming a fan. As for reasonable price, I guess it's at the high end of reasonable, depending on what reasonable is. -
@Pete Thanks for those numbers. 1.3m3 for 75m2 and 3.6m3 for 145m2 seem pretty reasonable and does make the 6.8m3 for my 108m2 look a bit on the large size. Hence the original question. I've asked BCO now anyway so I'll wait and see what he says.
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@Big Jimbo the several versions of the calculations I’ve done have all come up with 2m3. To me it’s seems 6.8m3 is massive, but if it transpires that is what I’m supposed to have then that’s what I’ll do. I’m not trying to cheat the system here, it’ll be my back garden and I don’t want it to turn in to a swamp, but if I only have to dig 2 and a bit m3 instead of circa 7m3 then I’ll go with the former.
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@Big Jimbo I’m not going to commit until I have the BCO agreement (especially as I’ve now asked the question). What calculations did you use to get to the 8m3 figure?
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Not sad at all. Where was it from? (Sorry if I’ve missed that information).
