Russdl
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Everything posted by Russdl
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Sounds reasonable. It looks like a German development and bits and pieces on line show it being used for all manner of construction. I'm quietly confident this is going to be spot on for a garage foundation (or any other foundation for that matter) but I've not committed yet so happy to be proved wrong. Will do š
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@saveasteading they put houses, commercial buildings etc on this stuff. It seems a garage would not present an issue. I may not need the insulation but I do want it so that, as a workshop, it's a reasonable environment year round.
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@BenP thanks for that. I was initially thinking of 300mm which it transpires would give me a U value of 0.19W/m2K so that looks alright (250mm would give a U value of 0.21W/m2K). Heating hasn't been decided yet.
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What floor U value should I be aiming for for a detached garage/workshop? I can't find any guidance unless it's for a garage conversion, can someone point me to any guidance?
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Spooky! That was my next question! (trawling through the Mikewye website now). My fermenting plan is to use the Geocell as per the image above, then build the garage/workshop in block off the raft, then use EWI to insulate the whole - questions seeking guidance regarding all that will be on their way in a separate post. (I've already been persuaded to go for UB steels for the roof)
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Thanks for that @Adrian Walker most useful (and I see the DPM does maker an appearance, no worries)
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- geocell
- foam glass
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@George thanks for the offer but Iām not in the market yet. Any insight you can share from using it?
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Never heard of it (I thought TLA stood for 'Three Letter Abreviation") but after a quick look, isn't TLA just insulation whereas the Geocell gravel is the foundation, and insulation.
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@Adrian Walker I'm going to give Mikewye a call in the morning and see what's what. (I'll PM re Saturday š) @ADLIan Thanks for the info and will read the certificate numerous times until I finally understand it. Use of a DPM won't be a biggie but everything I've seen so far say's it doesn't need one as it's non wicking and water drains through it, I guess that's why it should be wrapped in geo textile so that it doesn't clog up? I'm only interested in the Geocell gravel at this stage so won't be dealing with that stuff.
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Exactly! Exactly (again) plus, at this stage, I don't know what the delivery costs are likely to be. I'll try and find out tomorrow. So far I've seen that 300mm is equivalent to 150mm PIR as far as the insulation goes and I think that 300mm would be a suitable depth for a garage foundation, but not confirmed yet.
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That's the kind of answer I was looking for š What are the catches? I can't find any local supplier so I guess that's one.
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I don't know much about this GEOCELL foam glass gravel stuff but the more I look into it the more I think it will suit me just fine for my future garage/workshop. It looks really straight forward. No trenches (but a deepish hole to dig). No EPS to cut. NO DPM it seems as well, and most of it I reckon I can do myself. I'm sure there are catches that I'm unaware of (like price maybe?) what am I missing? Is this GEOCELL foam glass gravel a good option for a garage/workshop foundation?
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Most definitely!!
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Now that is a significant difference! I had no idea. So @China21 could be absolutely fine/up shit creek looking for a paddle shop depending on which side of the border they reside.
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If you are too high I would have thought the best solution is a retrospective planning application.
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@China21 my understanding is the 2.5m highest point should be measured from the highest ground so, in your situation, where the rear right is the highest ground then the front elevation should be no more than 2.5m above that. As the ground falls away back to front your front elevation should be 2.5m plus the amount of fall from the back right corner. if your roof slopes front to back and your back elevation is 2.5m then I suspect you may be a little too high.
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Iām considering EWIāing a garage that doesnāt exist yet - following with interest.
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You canāt have 101% š¤£
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@puntloos are you sure? At the beginning she says somalong the lines of āno light gets insideā. Iāll invite @ToughButterCup backā¦ @ToughButterCup can you review that video ā¬ļø up there somewhere. I think sheās saying they let no light in. Is she? Itās in German, I think you can help.
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Thatāll learn me. The point I was making was they were very very effective. I donāt recall how often we cleaned them but donāt recall it being any more arduous than other cleaning chores... ā¦ on the proviso you have inwards opening windows of course otherwise I suspect it would border on the impossible.
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@puntloos are you sure sheās saying āblocks 75% of the sunlightā? My German is a bit ragged these days (perhaps @ToughButterCup can help) but when I lived in Germany we had blinds similar to those and they blocked at least 200% of the sunlight, it was like walking into a cave when they were down. I hear the 75% bit she mentions, but before that sheās talking about keeping cool so perhaps she talking about the solar radiation?
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They have to say something (whoever the CDM writer of words is) the reality is wholly different. I told MBC (our timber frame supplier) what I was proposing and they were more than happy that it met the requirements - the toilet obviously being the main one. As @ProDave says, a touring caravan ticks all the boxes but not everyone has the space for that.
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I built another shed for that as well. That was well used and I only had to train one individual on what a bog brush was and how it worked and it was all good from there.
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I built a shed using timber and windows from the previous demolition and a bit of shiplap. Kettle and a water container, even biscuits and a cool box for milk etc. proper nice it was, well I thought so. The timber frame contractors had a look, admired my handiwork and then retired to their white vans for their breaks, mostly with their own thermos flask (but the biscuits did go). The shed is still in use, but as a shed now. I think it would be well worth asking Potton exactly what they expect of you to fill their requirements and do the bare minimum to meet their demands.
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Softened water connected to the heating circuit.
Russdl replied to Question's topic in Central Heating (Radiators)
This from the Harvey site May answer your question.
