puntloos

A bit of an update here: The Mitsubishi FCU in question is below: My read is that from the drain pipe, which sits at 170mm from the top of the device, needs a 1:100 slope (1cm down for every 100cm) And, my ceiling void, being currently 210mm, will therefore have 40mm (210-170) fall. 40mm fall means 4000mm distance can be traversed. But guess what, even as it stands, the current designed drain run is more than 4m: (sadly the drain output is as indicated in the picture below:) Is that correct? If carefully installed of course, as per @joth point, a 4m drain would leave 0 room for any imperfections. Instead, perhaps at least I'd need to create a new drain in the center pillar - that would reduce drain run to 3m..

The cheapest very-few-compromises setup they provide: Broadband router (not unifi, obviously) connected to the brains of the system: 1x https://eu.store.ui.com/products/udm-pro connected to a network switch https://store.ui.com/collections/unifi-network-switching/products/usw-lite-16-poe which provides connection and power to 2x https://eu.store.ui.com/collections/unifi-network-wireless/products/unifi-ap-6-lite

Update - I think I'm starting to figure it out - the ratings are "sometimes" (man this flyer is confusing) based on some random indoor device with a random outdoor device paired. So they just picked different devices for the different indoor units, wildly varying the final rating of two comparable units. Instead i think both efficiency ratings are somewhat close. OK - that makes that choice a lot easier. Or am I mistaken?

So we're converging on a Mitsubishi Multi-split system probably the 10.2kW device (max 5 indoor devices) - MXZ-5F102VF because it's the most energy efficient, uses R32, and quietest indoor units. The question is about those indoor thing In the one corner, we have the ducted (hidden in ceiling) SEZ-M R32 (page 66) - in particular the 2.5kW SEZ-M25DA, featuring: - Airflow (medium) 117l/s, 25dB - Efficiency: SCOP: 3.80 SEER:5,30 ErP class A In the other, we have the MSZ-LN R32 (page 20) - in particular the 2.5kW MSZ-LN25VG2 - Airflow (medium): 118l/s, 29dB - Efficiency: SCOP: 5.2 SEER: 10.5 ErP class A+++ The 'in ceiling' one of course is a lot harder to install smoothly, but certainly doable. I guess I prefer the in-ceiling for aesthetics but the on-wall are OK too. The crucial part is the efficiency vs the noise. Efficiency: Sigh. How can one be A and the other A+++ ? Aren't they both just a cleverly shaped coolant expansion tube? And why does the selected outdoor unit much more relevant to the efficiency rating at the end of the day? Noise: both are fairly quiet but the ducted one is literally more than twice as quiet still. Eh. To save you some rummaging through the PDF I'll attach the images below.

Oh sorry I just realised you're talking about powerline network. Then it makes sense. I thought you were saying normal wifi APs (connected over air or by cat6 backhaul) should be on the same ring/phase. Nevermind!

I'm somewhat confused as to why it has to be on the same ring/phase/breaker?

Yep, Ubiquiti here too, with one of the bigger reasons being the wifi access points with gig-Ethernet cables between the points. It's certainly prosumer so menus can be daunting if you're looking for 'that one thing' but frankly the defaults are sensible and getting it going is pretty straightforward.

But you forget that my doorbell is MONITORING HIM 24/7 MUHAHAH Ahem. Seriously though, it's all a matter of efficiency, people will use some technology if it is easy enough to learn and improves something else for the user but indeed not too sure if a wifi doorbell is an improvement over purely a mobile phone and/or a whatsapp connection.

It's a good point to keep sockets sensible. Will try to remember. HDMI - the trick is to buy proper ones. I have a 4K, 15m HDMI cable that works just fine at that resolution (4K is harder to transmit, needs better cables..) . But yeah it would be very bad to have a poor cable embedded in your wall.

Correct, that's the idea. Well, you know this better than I do - but my understanding is: - that the networking gear will be facing 'ports towards the office, power plug towards the livingroom(a wall). - My PC will probably have to turn into a rackmount - get myself a special case. Will see, it's not an urgent need - Audio gear, main bunch of ports towards office, includes power, controls facing towards the door. And - it will perhaps even be standing on the floor or on simple rack shelves. Something like this: Should work, no?

Huh. Not a bad idea, but I'm a bit worried about noise levels. But perhaps a painting with a serious backplate can be designed. Which.. kinda is just a door again I might just do both

Main reason is aesthetics, and Wife Acceptance Factor - having my amplifier and the media streamer hidden away is a good thing normally - so I'd almost want no door at all, but instead reality is that sometimes you want to just be able to punch the power button. So indeed a small door - something like 35x35cm seems great to access at least the main amp and with a bit of squeezing anything else. Second - with my PC in the network rack and my desk+monitor in office I'm normally ok, but I have a VR headset I want to use in the livingroom sometimes. Third - most amps come with room autocorrection - for which you need a wired microphone. Not a dealbreaker to extend the mic somehow I guess but easier this way.. Well, I do have full back access so most things can be easily wired from the office. The front I want as unobtrusive as possible.

I'm planning a network and audio equipment rack built into my house. And as you can see it has two doors, one into the office, one into the livingroom. But, I want the livingroom door to be 'tiny' and near the floor, as invisible as possible. My program renders it this way But perhaps this picture is somewhat more illustrative: (of course in this picture, this is just some cupboard - I need to 'punch through a wall') How would you do this? Just cut a minimal hole and hope a joiner can insert a door properly? I don't need to service the equipment from this side (of course?), I can just reach into the closet from the back.

Yeah I have to admit the aesthetic looks somewhat like the cheap kitchenware, but perhaps I could be convinced..

On a side note I've also been trying to figure out when my windshield will be fogged up (car's perma-outside) when I have to go drive, so I can pre-heat the car (can turn on heating remotely..).. but so far I haven't quite worked out the humidity and temp and dew point correlation and the actual fogging of the windshield.

So what happens with small ones that big ones don't have? Clogging, I assume? Or draining very slowly?

Got it. I assume you mean horizontal runs, not drops into svps. Will take a look.

It's a good point, I have zero plans to start cutting the surface, whilst chipping feels somewhat more likely. Silly question but how does chipping happen anyway? Banging a metal pot against the side of the worktop?

Why? Obviously (?) bigger runs are better for flow etc but do you figure 40 is problematic?

Got it. We'll take a quick look if we can accommodate. You might be misreading the floorplan, no pipes in any elevator shafts (there actually is no elevator, just a provisional spot as marked)

Here's an updated version: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1_B8cKxI3Z-bwTK8QqIbGkolLdRoBY-owiJAY1l7RGRs/edit#gid=905330223 Not too much added frankly, but narrowed down a few things.

My house design's layout is apparently somewhat challenging for the waste side of things. Attached below is the 'current design' but the runs are somewhat long. Is this "okay enough"? I realise that some designs are near the edge of physics, but we can't all have 5% angle - the main question is how often this will start to cause problems "per year". Having a plumber over once every 5 years isn't the end of the world, but once every week obviously is.... One note is that I'm not happy with the far right downpipe, I'd want it in the corner of the room, or if needed, at least further up the wall.

Lavastone never heard of it - interesting. It's using glazing though, and the glazing isn't resistant to (knife edge) scratches. - source: https://www.remodelista.com/posts/remodeling-101-lava-stone-countertops-pros-and-cons/

This is great stuff - I've never heard of an enthalpy exchanger before. How much control do you have to the level of humidity? (I guess.. as long as it is 'perfect'... is that perfect level always the same for any human?)

These are very good points, thank you. I think that with my current FCU type being 200mm and my void 210mm I can stuff it in there but actually not do any of the hanging and draining you mentioned. Instead, perhaps lowering my office ceiling by perhaps 5cm might give me the space I need to put the 2 FCUs in there elegantly.