Dan Feist

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  1. Dan Feist

    Working out a scheme for DHW

    Remember what product you used @jack? The cheapest ones seem to be the non-branded vertical ones, but these are less flexible in terms of fitting them in the void I assume? Megaflow have a few horizontal ones, and then at the other end of the scale are these: https://joulia.com/en/products/ Maybe WWHRS deserves it's on topic, seems it's not something that's really been discussed too much before if I go by search results.
  2. Hi, Has anyone used Enersign windows/doors (http://www.enersign.com/startseite.html)? They no longer have a UK representative/reseller but are able to specify/supply from Germany. I am waiting on a quote. The specs look very good, and the detailing whereby a lot of the frame gets built into the wall (if I understood correctly) looks like it would look really good in a contemporary design. They also supply with external venetian blinds. Any thoughts/experiences? @jack These are the same as the Pazen windows you used I think, so interested to understand why you chose these over the Austrian brands. Thanks, P.S. Information/specs in english can be found here: http://www.enersign.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Download/ENERsign_primus_Broschure.pdf
  3. Dan Feist

    Glazing defects - what is acceptable?

    @Weebles Did the manufacturer resolve this in the end?
  4. @jack What brand shutters are you using? Also, what system are you using for automating them? Think I'm going to look at Pazen and Gaulhofer options for windows, given both can be supplied with blinds. Will also look at Warema/Roma standalone blinds also. Sageglass seems a smart solution but very pricey. I'll be looking for the following: - Ability to automate. - Ability to blackout (even if this requires different optional slats) - Ability to close the bottom half and open top half. - Compatibility with external glass guarding. Will report back once I work out what seems to make most sense manufacturer wise. Any recommendations please let me know. Thanks!
  5. Sinister or "fun"? Off topic, I know but reminded me of this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Map8ik9CQ8 (Micky Flanagan - Peeping)
  6. These look good, need to see how much they cost ... https://www.brightablind.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Warema-EVB.pdf
  7. @lizzie Wondering how you found out they were messed up, or you just assume they must have been because of results? Did you get them done professionally?
  8. This is an interesting read https://passipedia.org/basics/summer#literature. Although if you compare fig. 4 with fig. 7, they seem to make out that tilted window ventilation makes all the difference and is enough to keep temps down, of course, that doesn't match with your experiences which I'm inclined to trust more. They also show the effectiveness of different types of blind. > @jack Yes, by "duct cooler" I mean this type of thing. It's also run off the ASHP in cooling mode. I was assumed retrofitting something like "Zehnder ComfoCool" if we found we needed some active cooling. A duct cooler would probably be harder to retrofit I assume. Like the idea of cooling UFH, will need to look into that and look out not only for HP's that support it but also suitable setup and control system I assume.. BTW, any suggestions on good external blinds that are easy to automate without have a proprietary control system? Thanks,
  9. Excellent feedback, thanks all. We are in the south-east and currently planning to use MBC 300mm PH system. Our windows are all south (large)/north (smaller), nothing the east and only a couple of the west. So in summary: - Ask for 23C to be modelled as a maximum in PHPP ideally. - Don't rely on additional ventilation via windows. - Definitely use external blinds on south elevation at least and ideally automate them. - Could tweak overhangs, but i) don't make them bigger as there may be too much shading in spring/autumn, ii) be careful with reducing them too much as it won't increase winter solar gain, and they will provide additional summer shading (especially important if blinds aren't automated) Did anyone get PHPP overheating numbers during the design phase? @jack @JSHarris @lizzie you all suggest overheating is an issue for you post-build, just wondering what your PHPP values for overheating were pre-build (if you had them done)? @jack Can MHRV/Slab active cooling be retrofitted or does it need to be designed in from the start? I assume we'd need an MHVR system that supports the addition of cooling, and a heat pump that supports reverse mode? By "duct cooler", are you referring to active cooling being added to MHVR? thanks!
  10. Hi, We had had PHPP calculations done for our build which shows 3-4% over-heating as is. While this seems low PHPP considers the building as a whole and so the south-facing rooms with a lot of glazing are therefore potentially likely to be >25C on significantly more than a week or two a year. Given this, and given the warming climate, we are interested in reducing overheating to closer to 0% if possible. There are multiple ways to do this though and I'm struggling to understand the best route: 1) Active cooling (via MHVR or slab) [shouldn't be required with other approaches, and adds additional running costs] 2) Increase overhangs [overhangs are already a decent size and I'm concerned too much overhang would mean too much shade late spring] 3) Increase ventilation during hot days by keeping windows open [unsure if this would be enough, and wouldn't be able to keep downstairs patio doors open at night] 4) Add exterior blinds [these could be used on hottest days and also for i) additional shading in August when overhang is less effective ii) privacy] Adding exterior blinds opens up a fifth option though. 5) Add automated exterior blinds + decrease existing overhangs. [This should, in theory, solve any overheating concerns + also maybe maximize solar gains also?] Anyone with any experience of these options and choosing one over the other either in design or later? Or any suggestions? For reference, 1st-floor overhangs are currently 75cm, while ground floor (2.1m high doors) overhang is on average 1.4m. Thanks,
  11. Hi, We purchased a bungalow a few months ago and we will be demolishing it and build a detached house on the site just as soon as we can. While we are almost ready to submit a planning application, it will still probably be another 4-5 months before we can demolish and start building work. The bungalow is on a residential road and backs onto other houses., we have also been visiting the site weekly and the neighbours also try to keep a lookout. Regardless, recently one of the patio doors was compromised and we found the curtains had all been closed and when we entered with the police there were sleeping bags/food inside. We have now resecured the property but are thinking we need to improve security somehow to avoid a repeat of this. Does anyone have any experience of using i) boarding over windows ii) fencing on front boundary iii) floodlights etc. to prevent squatters while a property is empty? Or any thoughts on what might be the best option? Thanks!
  12. Thanks for all the thoughts: So, it looks like I have two things to talk to our architect about: 1) Potentially using 2700mm ceiling height downstairs instead fo 2500mm 2) Potentially using 1000mm wide stairs instead of 900mm. @AliG We thought about opening up hall/landing and going up into the roof space for more effect, but seeing the 3D it didn't really work very well with the rest of the house (closed plan and single height). @the_r_sole I'm not sure reducing rise will be possible (unless we also reduce going) as else stairs take up more room and impact the rest of the layout.
  13. @Mr Punter @ultramods Oops. It seems I measured a couple of things incorrectly from the SketchUp model. - The rise is actually 205mm (which would work) - The ground floor ceiling is actually 2500mm. The largest room we have is a kitchen/breakfast room at 7400x5400mm, but that's because we decided not to go for open plan and instead have separate kitchen/dining/family areas inter-connected via sliding doors. We are somewhat limited by planning due to ridge height and we have gone for a contemporary design with a low-pitched roof rather than a traditional design with dormers. I'm assuming 2500mm wouldn't be bad at all, but closer to 2700mm might be slightly better? Stair width was my main concern also, I thought 900mm external was maybe a bit mean, given the hallway is 3800x3300 (with a void of 3800x2200). Think I'll try to get this increased to 1000mm external. We've done a lot of comparing of room sizes with laser measure already, but it's harder to do this with landing width, stair dimensions and ceiling heights without living in a space with same dimensions thus my question here 🙂 Thanks!
  14. Hi, Building regulations specify minimum sizes for these, but that doesn't mean the sizes specified are comfortable or ideal. What are the recommended sizes for the following in a decent sized contemporary detached house (350m2)? The values in brackets are the values we currently have specified, wondering if based on experiences anyone would tweak any of these, or if there is anything that doesn't match up.? - Ground floor ceiling (2500mm) - Ground floor entrance hall (1900mm) - Secondary ground floor hallways (1100mm) - First-floor ceiling (2400mm) - First-floor landings (1100mm) - Stair width (900cm) - Stair going (290mm) - Stair rise (205mm) Thanks!