Dan Feist

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About Dan Feist

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  1. With slabs, you'd have gaps where joists are I assume, so hard to see how effictive it would be. If noise transmission is important to you might want to think about one (or both) of the following on top of the standard insulation as shown in @ProDave picture.: 1) ScreedBoard above the joists 2) Resiliant bars (or suspended ceiling system of some sort) below the joists (we haven't built yet, but this is what we plan to do)
  2. We are thinking about it as a largish walk-in pantry, primarily for freezer and food storage cupabords just with the added bonus/flexibility of there being a decent-sized worktop and a small sink, but definitly no hob or cooker! We were thinking that a food processor could potentially live on this worktop though, so as to not take up room in the kitchen and so we don't feel to need to put it away (so I guess that could be classed as "prep"). We considered putting a dishwasher in here, but decided it's best by the main/large sink in the kitchen, especially as we plan to fit an erator. We don't have oven/hob next to each other either. We'll have: - Hob on island, sink on side wall. - Dishwasher and sink next to each other, with bin close by. - Dishwasher somewhere it won't be too much of a pain when open. - Fridge somewhere you can get to easily from breakfast/dining area without having to go past oven/hob/sink or do a lap around an island. - Microwave/kettle also somewhere with easy access from breakfast/dining area. - Freezer in pantry not in kitchen.
  3. Some people do use a rendered block external leaf, yes. A couple of different project managers that I spoke to regarding our build tried to convince us to use a block skin. Their argument was: i) more solid ii) easier to mortgage. We ignored them (we're not using them either) and we were able to get a mortgage without a problem.
  4. IMO yes, no issue at all. We're doing the same, but with twin-wall 300mm system and haven't had an issue with mortgage or warranty. - Timber frame without block skin does limit lenders slightly. - Timber frame without BBA or BOPAS accreditation limits lenders further. - But, there are still a fair number of lenders, including Ecology (which a number of people on buildhub have used). We went with someone else in the end as they could lend us more. Of course, it'll be wise to check with a mortgage broker before signing off on anything.
  5. Not everyone will mortgage it, but it's definitly mortgageable. Agree with @ADLIan that using a suitable/approved render/cladding system is important for mortgage/warranty/insurance if you aren't using a block skin. This link has a lot of interesting information on insulation options, seems to suggest decrement delay of of mineral wool & PIR is around 7-8hrs: https://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/news/insulation-materials-compared/ (In our experience mortgage providers willing to mortage MBC system was more limited because they do not have BBA or BOPAS accreditation.)
  6. The MBC 0.14 system (other companies have similair systems) is about 225mm if I remember correctly (OSB, 140mm frame with mineral wool infill, 40mm PIR + service cavity) +15mm internal plastboard + 45mm for external cavity, renderboard + render = 285mm total (or 325mm for 0.11) Passivhaus doesn't have any specific u-level requirements, if you need 0.1, or if 0.15 is fine to meet "passive standard", will depend on climate, u-value of floor and windows, thermal briges and airtightness etc. Our walls will be 425mm inlcuding extenal render system and internal PB, but thats because it's a twin-wall system with celuose (as a number of other people on this forum have used). You need more depth of celulose, because its less insulating that mineral wool or PIR. Celuose is 0.038 W//(mK) vs mineral wool 0.032 and PIR 0.022. It does have other advantages though; i) better eco-credentials ii) better decrement delay.
  7. That's not odd! We have the same in our rental property and are doing the same in our design and putting the hob on the island. We are doing something even odder than you though... our sink isn't under a window! For some reason everyone seems to put a sink under a window. Does this come from when everyone used to wash-up by hand, and the view made it less boring I wonder? We'll have diswasher in kitchen (near sink), but like you have not gone full open-plan, as it's just not practical. We have kitchen/breakfast as one area, and then more formal dining/lounge as another area, connected by full-height pocket doors.
  8. These are popular in Austrailia from plans I've seen online. Rather than being a second kitchen, it's more of a utility sized (or smaller) area with both storage and some worktop, decoupled from the ktichen which is typically open-plan. The addition on a sink means they can be good for food prep too if required, and not just for hiding all the dirty stuff. We saw some Metricon (australian builder) layouts with them in and really like the idea, especially the layouts that have a butlers pantry between the kitchen and utility and stole the idea for our house too. We have slightly less storage cupboards in the kitchen because of this, and like @Dreadnaught we plan to put the freezer in here also, with frezzer and two full height 600mm storage units on one side and a counter-top with storage below on the other side. We've not starting building yet, but this is where we got the idea from: There is a walkthrough VR of this design here: https://www.metricon.com.au/new-home-designs/qld/riviera?category=virtualtours&photo=riviera&floorplan=54 The metricon website also have plenty of other, more modest designs, with this concept too. This is our intereptration of it (clear copy! bit smaller I think though, and with the addition of pocket doors)
  9. @oranjeboom If you know any German and one to go one step further than Jeremys sheet, without going as far as (or paying for) the latest version of PHPP, then you coud look at the freely available PHPP 2002 as another option. https://passiv.de/en/05_service/02_tools/02_tools.htm
  10. @ProDave I'm pretty sure these are Scotland-only building regs. Not saying an airtight garage with no ventilation is a good idea, just updating thread with findings. Good point @joth, simplest solution to door might be just to walk outside. Will have to look at door options and "airlock" alternative more serisouly I think..
  11. Harvey or Twintec. Search the forum for either of these for plenty more info. Or take a look at this thread:
  12. @DamonHD Sorry, it's same thing they told me about, just a different website https://hydropath.com/hs38/ So that thread I linked to, is about exactly the same product..
  13. @DamonHD Sunamp suggested Hyrdopath to me, seems just a magical though....
  14. That's a very good point, and not one I was aware of, thanks! Will look this up to see the specifics.. That's what I heard, but I didn't know how good/bad something like the "Hormann LPU67" (which is class 3 airtightness) actually is. Yes, this is the current/default plan. I just wanted to pick peoples brains on the alternatives.... Yes, was aware of this, but hadn't looked at prices yet! This would be one reason to include garage in airtightness envelope, but as you said that not allowed due to BRegs. Very useful, thanks @ProDave!
  15. Ha, I knew certification isn't very popular on this forum! 🙂 We're doing it to aid in decision making and for the quality assurance, not the certificate. It means we are sure that timber-frame and window installation detailing etc. is fully reviewed, that we're choosing the best glass specification (u/g value) and overhang sizes to best balance insulation/solar gains, and to ensure the investment in external blinds makes sense amoung other things. Yes it's a couple of thousand £, but so it's the structural garantee, building control, site insurance and everything else. And if it improves our confidence in what we're doing and potentially also our comfort living in the house for the next however many years then it's money well spent in our minds (we don't have time or knowledge to play around with PHPP ourselves). Maybe I look into the Hornam spec from a u-value and airtightness standpoint, and if it's good consider including everything in thermal envelope and keeping things simple...