Dan F

Control cable is often used to connect a CT clamp of some kind and allow the EV charger to do load management. Some EV chargers also have ethernet connection. Don't think load management is required, but depending on your main fuse size and expected load may be a good idea to have in place. This can be a seperate cable, as @Alan Ambrose said, doesn't have to be special all-on-one EV cable. 25mm2? Is this 50m+? Seems overkill otherwise..

We had 70mm open-graded tarmac laid on our drive just before we moved in 3 year ago. Since then, we've completed landscaping works and one of the few remaining things to complete things is to lay some resin. The result needs to be permeable and shouldn't pool. Permability after it was installed was great, with only a very small amount of surface water for a short period of time if there was heavy rain non-stop for a week. However, duing landscaping work, getting MOT and topsoil on the drive was pretty much unavoidable, and while it is still somewhat permeable we do have significant pooling in a number of areas. I haven't wanted to rush into getting resin put down as we don't want to proceed with resin only to find that the resin doesn't drain. The resin supplier has suggested a few things to mitigate this: - Drill holes in the tarmac, especially in areas we see pooling currently. - Use 10mm vs 6mm aggregate to increase permeability of resin. - Use 35mm resin on a grid, rather han 18mm directly on the tarmac as orginally planned (so resin layer can hold more water and water can distribute within resin layer). There are all great suggestions, and probably ones that we should follow, however I'd feel more confident if we could restore the permeability of the tarmac first. Pressure washing just move the fines around and doesn't improve things, so we need a different approach. According to Tarmac: However, the only versions of this that I have found online as large road-sweeper machine and charge £1000's day rate. Given drive is only 120m2 or so this does't make sense, yet I can't find anything smaller/cheaper or any self-hire options. I may well be looking in the wrong places though. I've wondered about hiring a higher power/capacity wet vaccum and then trying to do this myself and have also seen a product call "rotaryvac" [1] which I thought about trying to hire somewhere, but thought I'd see if anyone here has any experience of advice before I start experimenting..? [1] https://equip2clean.co.uk/products/kiam-rotaryvac-21-rotary-floor-cleaning-tool-with-fluid-recovery-vacuum-system

As I said, mine may have stopped at 80rps because it had already drosted enough, hard to tell, but even when mine is running flat out at 100%, defrost only reaches 80rps. I graphed this via ebusd/emon: I also experimented by setting NR mode to -50% (limiting compressor to 60rps), and defrost compressor still rose to 80rps. I'm can't say for certain that NR doesn't impact anything related to defrost, but it certainly doesn't constraint compressor to NR setting on mine. IGNORE THIS. FORUM WON'T LET ME DELETE IT FOR SOME REASON..

On my system, compressor speed on defrost only seems to reach 80prm (67%). It may go higher if needed, I'm unsure, but I haven't seen it go higher recently. Defrost compressor speed appears to ignore any noise reduction or eco modes, so AFAIK there is no way to limit defrost compressor speed or noise. My 7kW allow for -30%, does yours not? (I know the manual only says 40-60%).

80% was DALI or LED, and it was easier for electricians to use same cable everywhere and avoid any mix-ups. If you drivers are local to fitting you going to need more than twin-earth anyway, unless control is wireless or you have a seperate dali/dmx/tree/control cable. One example of where having this 5-core in place was handy was bedside lamps. We ended up choosing some wall lamps that have a wall light an a reading light, by using 4 cores were were able to give it a permannt live for the reading light (locally switched) and have the wall light on a loxone-controlled dimmer. We couldn't have done this otherwise once everything was boarded. It also meants that, when we finally source and install pendants we have option to use mains dimmed or DALI etc. You're right re: tree via 5-core. The scenario I was thinking about was a pendant in the hall, where we only decided later to use the Loxone pendant. What we did in this case was use the 2 cores (of the pre-wired 5-core) to supply 24v to the pendant, and then brought tree from the closest light switch.

We used 5-core in most places for lighting unless we knew that the lighting circuit was definitely going to be i) single-color ii) use a cabinet-based dimmer. Wtih 5-cores we could then: - power RGBW or tunable strips from with central LED driver, - send 230v + DALI to remote drivers (all our downlights and some other fittings are DALI) - send dimmed 230v - could even send 24v + loxone tree if needed. (albeit overkill core area)

Victron does too, and I'm sure others do too, includig Sonnen. Just need to check datasheets .

We had a consultant do our initial version, but i actually spent a lot of time learning it (bought the printed manual) and I used this knowledge to update and improve a few things that weren't quite right too. It's doable, but I know from experiencia how much time investment is required to even try to get it right. Also, how much of an impact things like exact glass specifciation, ventliation and how tress are modelled have have massive impact and change results fundamentally.

Start with inactive and try to find your correct heat curve, you can then switch to active which is more forgiving and adjusts better to solar gain etc. Expanded has its uses, but it's typically not a good idea. Adaptive WC is not really recommened either. Don't touch integral or hysterisis configuration until you've done the above, only then are you really in a position to understand if either of these need tweaking.

Expanded doesn't ignore energy integral. Adapative WC is typically not used or recommended. Energy integral is -60 by default, not -90. Don't think pressure should be varying like that, mine doesn't.

This is what you need: https://evanmccann.net/blog/ubiquiti/unifi-comparison-charts#fnr1 (it doesn't stay up to date for long ever though as they keep bring out new products)

You ideally want to get someone to do PHPP for you, unless you have a lot of time to spend learning how to use it, but I still wouldn't advise this really. - If someone else is doing it for you, you don't need to buy PHPP (they will use their own license), but you will need pay consultant fees of course. - If you are doing it yourself you also want to buy the detailed manual, will need to invest a lot of time and IMO you won't be able to as confident with the outcome vs having someone with experience and PHI certification do it for you. This is because there are so many details to it, and things that seem minor that it's possible to not fully understand, can have big impacts. (e.g. things like not getting ventilation assumptions correct, or not correctly adding all the fine details of glass spec, glass spacers, window frame size, overhangs, height of trees in your garden etc etc.)

I started out with all sorts of ideas/plans to control heating from Loxone, but the reality is that the best way to control heating is using the heat pumps own weather compensation. Anything else and you're just complicating things, creating potential maintenance issues and not really gaining anything (from my experience anyway). We have a Vaillant ASHP which has good weather compensation but also supports an "active" mode which ajusts curve slightly based on actual room temperatures which helps compensate for solar gains and works really well. In order to load-shift, I increase the desired room temperature during the night and reduce it during the day, this also works really well. Any type of thermostatic control, using room temp, doesn't work because UFH is in slab and room temp is very very slow to respond. I could have tried to use external controls to control ASHP based on slab-temp, but this adds complexity and isn't needed, and then you need to determine what required slab temp should be depending on outside temp etc.

Loxone intercom + nfc/keyboard is nice combo if you are using Loxone, costs a small fortune though, lot more than ubiquiti doorbell or even their intercom 😞 Doorbird (https://www.doorbird.com/) is another well-known brand for intercoms worth looking at.

Actually, no. Unfii express doesn't support "protect", it also has other limits I think. If you don't want to spend big money on a "dream machine" or anything rack mounted, the fairly new "Could Gateway Max" is one of the best options currently. https://techspecs.ui.com/unifi/unifi-cloud-gateways/ucg-max?s=uk What existing ubiquiti kit to you already have though?