Dan F

Victron does too, and I'm sure others do too, includig Sonnen. Just need to check datasheets .

We had a consultant do our initial version, but i actually spent a lot of time learning it (bought the printed manual) and I used this knowledge to update and improve a few things that weren't quite right too. It's doable, but I know from experiencia how much time investment is required to even try to get it right. Also, how much of an impact things like exact glass specifciation, ventliation and how tress are modelled have have massive impact and change results fundamentally.

Start with inactive and try to find your correct heat curve, you can then switch to active which is more forgiving and adjusts better to solar gain etc. Expanded has its uses, but it's typically not a good idea. Adaptive WC is not really recommened either. Don't touch integral or hysterisis configuration until you've done the above, only then are you really in a position to understand if either of these need tweaking.

Expanded doesn't ignore energy integral. Adapative WC is typically not used or recommended. Energy integral is -60 by default, not -90. Don't think pressure should be varying like that, mine doesn't.

This is what you need: https://evanmccann.net/blog/ubiquiti/unifi-comparison-charts#fnr1 (it doesn't stay up to date for long ever though as they keep bring out new products)

You ideally want to get someone to do PHPP for you, unless you have a lot of time to spend learning how to use it, but I still wouldn't advise this really. - If someone else is doing it for you, you don't need to buy PHPP (they will use their own license), but you will need pay consultant fees of course. - If you are doing it yourself you also want to buy the detailed manual, will need to invest a lot of time and IMO you won't be able to as confident with the outcome vs having someone with experience and PHI certification do it for you. This is because there are so many details to it, and things that seem minor that it's possible to not fully understand, can have big impacts. (e.g. things like not getting ventilation assumptions correct, or not correctly adding all the fine details of glass spec, glass spacers, window frame size, overhangs, height of trees in your garden etc etc.)

I started out with all sorts of ideas/plans to control heating from Loxone, but the reality is that the best way to control heating is using the heat pumps own weather compensation. Anything else and you're just complicating things, creating potential maintenance issues and not really gaining anything (from my experience anyway). We have a Vaillant ASHP which has good weather compensation but also supports an "active" mode which ajusts curve slightly based on actual room temperatures which helps compensate for solar gains and works really well. In order to load-shift, I increase the desired room temperature during the night and reduce it during the day, this also works really well. Any type of thermostatic control, using room temp, doesn't work because UFH is in slab and room temp is very very slow to respond. I could have tried to use external controls to control ASHP based on slab-temp, but this adds complexity and isn't needed, and then you need to determine what required slab temp should be depending on outside temp etc.

Loxone intercom + nfc/keyboard is nice combo if you are using Loxone, costs a small fortune though, lot more than ubiquiti doorbell or even their intercom 😞 Doorbird (https://www.doorbird.com/) is another well-known brand for intercoms worth looking at.

Actually, no. Unfii express doesn't support "protect", it also has other limits I think. If you don't want to spend big money on a "dream machine" or anything rack mounted, the fairly new "Could Gateway Max" is one of the best options currently. https://techspecs.ui.com/unifi/unifi-cloud-gateways/ucg-max?s=uk What existing ubiquiti kit to you already have though?

Ours modifies flow temp based on room temp, not return temp!

This the the case with basic weather compensation. Most manufacturers have some kind of "room temperature modulation" option which wil adjust the curve based actual room temperature. This approach helps adjust for solar gain and high wind as well.

Which ASHP is this? What is hysteresis? My understanding is that with a target flow temp of 23C and a 7K hysteresis (as an example) with an open loop system the ASHP is going to run until flow temp reaches 30C and then shut down. Is this how yours behaves, or does it do something different e.g. mark-space ratio. I assume you much have hysteresis much lower than 7K? Otherwise, if flow temp does have to ramp up to 30C before ASHP shuts down, this risks temperature fluctuations and possibiity to overshoot.

It's not marketing (and I haven't seen it mentioned in marketing materials), it's a control strategy that is important to control cycling when heating load is less than minimum output. Without an integral-based control mechanism how would ASHP control cycles? Using simple hystersis would result in more temperature swings impacting efficiency and comfort AFAIU..

I know various people, including a Vaillant-approved installer, who have had to purchase and install their own replacement boards! What kind of "persuasion" was required? Is the new board already installed now? (make sure they move your cooling resistor over, and don't take it away with the old board. if you have one installed)

You don't have to disable anything, this is all automatic. We have UFH on ground-floor and Comfopost on first floor. (not a great idea as boosting MVHR to increase first-floor cooling brings in more warm air on ground floor) If you have UFH and/or fancoils on both floors there is no reason to install Comfopost no. In our case installing UFH on first-floor wasn't justified and given the cacluated cooling load was so low we felt that fancoils weren't justfied either. The comfopost was more of an insurance than anything else. What we realised living here though is that bedroom temperature can be quite important for some people to sleep well, and controlling bedroom temperature would have been very easy and effective with fancoils, but much harder with comfopost where you need to run it for extended periods of time and maintain the whole first-floor at a lower temperature.