gravelrash

Anyone know how far a bulk bag of grit sand covers in m2 at 2'' thick?

On with build and soon will need to build in roof web joists. Are web joists ok to be rained on? How much can they survive? Anybody got ideas to protect them as they are going to be open to weather for a month

Party wall act exempts fences and hedges from act. The act is to protect undermining structural integrity of neighbours buildings and walls...so unless @08980898 has a wall or some substantial building with foundations within 3m or very deep foundations within 6m of the intended build foundations it would not be bound by the act. .

The garden has a boundary fence not wall so act would be irrelevant unless something built within 6m of any diiging

80m2 is small leaving little room for parking or garden, are you city centre? Would appear difficult to meet minimum space standards on a three bed detached while providing reasonable private garden and off road parking...but if in London. Your local council should have a household design guide, this specifies min distances from walls, windows etc to avoid overlooking. Light can be a big issue as well, especially if the build shadows your private garden area for several hours a day.

Hi Jay, does he specialise in roofs or just a general Joiner?

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In Leeds and building a 150m2 warm flat roof house with parapet walls to 3 sides and struggling to find the type of company/contractor to do full job ie. that can build up the roof layers of osb, tapered insulation, osb then EPDM. I just seem to be finding small companies that do not really have experience or guarantees. what should I google? Anyone got a recommendation for companies around West Yorkshire?

Your architect would advise on basic principals. If using scissor trusses or King/Queen for vaulted roof it should not create a problem but Building control would want Structural Engineer to ensure any design is suitable.

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Have a full medical first...you would be surprised how many self builders have heart attacks.

anyone else got any input?

Johnmo, where did you get your Atag boiler? which model are you running? how did you find cost of it?

Was going to do similar with heating programmer wired via temp sensor on tank controlling boiler heating. once boiler switches off the heating pump will still circulate ufh until temp drops in tank.

Looking at using what I actually will need rather than what I would like...but using it in the most effective way, so no expensive heat pump. I looked at TS but cant get small ones and large one would just be heating water for the sake of it. I like the idea of turning boiler to summer mode.. makes good sense, possibly electric valve to stop any thermal flow through boiler would be a cheap benefit during summer

Sounds insane but here we go.. I have planned UFH system going in slab 122m2 floor with plenty of solar gain to south and west. Heat load at -4 is just above 3000w with flow design temp at 30c and slab temp at 21c, using single zone initially till we see how it performs. Due to limited UFH volume of 42lt and using small gas Combi we are sourcing a 80lt 4 port buffer tank with an upper coil installed. Idea is to load tank to 40c in upper 2/3 and also pre heat DHW through top coil before entering boiler. Idea being the tank is heated at max condensing efficiency where HW is not, so a slight gain. That parts pretty straight forward....but I would like the system to reverse cycle during summer months to remove some heat from slab and dump it in buffer tank. I know it will not produce high temps but any preheat to mains water at 10c on HW side is beneficial and will help cooling. Any thoughts? Is there a circulation pump that will reverse flow? or am I looking at second pump and diverter valve? any one know of a heat/cool thermostatic programmer that work with slab sensor? Any recommendations for Buffer specialist supplier

But the degree qualified engineer rarely has the ability to carry out manual tasks. Ask one to machine components by hand and assemble the product without a technician.

I think that weight load is a mistake...I would assume 12Kg is more likely. Dont let the design draw you in -there are far better quality extractors at reasonable prices...even at B&do

New build with approx 3300w heat load at -5c, using loopcad UFH pipe layout it gives similar heat load so I think all calcs correct and it gives flow temp of 33c to maintain floor temp at 22c with 42litres of volume in system I am not going with ASHP because 4m from gas main but obvious issues arise with Gas boilers only going as low as 40C. I don't want a system boiler and large tank as only 2 in house so sticking with Combi and heating running through small Buffer tank- similar to how ASHP lads do it. So looking for any input especially about availability of unvented buffer tanks between 40-60lts.(a tank with mid loop would be even better)

|Bump.. come on guys- somebody must have knowledge

If the floor is 24c then water flow temp is obviously heating slab to adequate temp. My underfloor heating only has 50mm pu underneath a 130m2 slab with 40c flow, upstairs rooms of 100m2 not requiring heating , barn conversion in 2004 so not the best insulation at all, 20mm glazed units to oak frames and no airtightness to speak of plus sat facing shittiest westerly weather and winds -but house still gets toasty and only uses £70 in gas a month during winter months...might be different this year So def something amiss with your fabric

if the floor is achieving 24c it sounds like you are loosing heat through building fabric... quite quickly.

only in a few states but your excess lecy passes to the grid and instead of getting paid they give energy credits at a set value i.e 1:0.95 to cover transmission fees or some states you pay a transmission fee to local utility of about $100 a year and they credit 1:1. When you draw from the grid it uses your credits first. Thats why some areas they have large arrays because they can bank for the winter. I presume the utilities benefit from carbon credits and that makes it cost effective and offsets there oil burning power generators. Usual US business strategy - think of profits long term rather than UK's tear your arms off short term. Example being costco's US policy of stack it high and sell it cheap, and in UK there policy is f**k em and charge what we can.

I looked at PV with ASHP but cant make the sums add up considering winter months and the array size required. If we could bank power to the grid like some states in US then it would be a no brainer...Id like to save the world but it still has to at least pay for its self over its life time...and I ain't got that much life left.

I understood that the unit uses a viessmann boiler unit to act as a backup heating/HW if demand exceeds the amount stored. the co2 reduction comes from onsite electricity production, removing supply losses from the equation. They claim mains electricity production and supply as only 44% efficient at point of use...so presumably the fuel cell reduces co2 by whatever %, it is also a low temp chemical conversion so no Nox pollution. As Joe90 pointed out...the Japanese have 500,000+ units installed so far and its doubtful the Germans entertain producing a product with no meaningful benefit. As the thread started- Anybody any experience with vitovalor pt2 hydrogen chp units? Cost, reliability, benefits?