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redtop

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Everything posted by redtop

  1. i just assumed that BC would have sent them the site plans, the house is going at the far end of the plot (which is over 100M from entrance to back). The 225 pipe is in next doors plot, we are the big empty one in the middle. I thought i had attached the site plan as well ?
  2. sooo, SW water sem to think i 'might' be building within 3m of a sewer, and have asked BC for me to confirm whether i am or not. I am a little confused as dont think i am within 50M never mind 3M. The sewage map and site plans are attached. I assume a drive going over a sewer isnt classed as building over...02_F_Site_Plan-1532328.pdf02_F_Site_Plan-1532328.pdf water and sewage.pdf
  3. interesting topic, we will have a LOT of western red ceder cladding and TBC decking when we get to that stage. WHat i dont quite understand is the dif in the planned timber and just kiln dried. Can someone point me at a stockist so i can understand the price / spec difference? ta
  4. i would get the ransom strip legal stuff done and paid for before getting planning, assuming the ransom strip price isnt onerous. I know its a risk in case you dont get planning, but once you do, and he takes advice from any ofspring who will inherit his estate, you may find the price goes up. a lot.
  5. jesus! well thats what you can call me from now on ?
  6. and may i add i have only broken 3 ribs on a tree stump and electrocuted myself 4 times over the years so i am uber safe. Oh and smashed my nose once, and broke a finger... No dont listen to me
  7. see, and everyone is giving good sound advice. I would claim to have learnt from my mistake and carry on chopping the trunk into small pieces. I might use a big 2 person hand saw rather than a chainsaw if i thought it would jump about but then H&S has never been my strong point
  8. sorry i meant loosely cable tie so the weight of the cable means it hangs halfway down the joist
  9. plastic tie them to the metal web so they run at mid-depth in the joist. easiest solution
  10. clearly it all varies. I fitted an external electrical (green box) fastened to a wooden post, DNO ran cable and fitted main fuse, supplier fitted smart meter and isolation switch. I then fitted garage consumer unit,earthing rod and couple of sockets; so a temp supply. When building is complete DNO will disconnect, add an extension and re-fit to same meter box moved to its final position (with temp dist box /earth rod removed)
  11. do you think a 1.5T or smaller would do for a simple trench? Ground is pretty hard though
  12. i might have to dig 20m water trenche by hand if i cant get my groundworker back on site in time, not looking forward to it. anyone any idea how long it would take?
  13. i agree and dont think renting would reduce clout at all, it shouldnt anyway
  14. whilst i agree it def needs BC and a SE to design it properly i cant see how it would be difficult or expensive to build at all. Couple of posts to take the weight with pad foundations underneath and then supporting joists properly anchored into the main building wall. bit of decking and ballistrade and bobs your uncle. So yes needs doing properly of course but i can see no reason why it would be even close to the cost of building a room underneath with a flat roof. FYI our house is raised on stilts due to trees and steep slope with a raised decking (aprox max 2.5M above ground level) leading from the kitchen / diner double doors. It has all been designed by a SE and has passed planning and i can certainly confirm the decking area is massivly cheaper to build than even a small part of the main house. I will be doing the decking bit myself. re the foundations, the piles are being extended to cover the decking area. There is a trade association for deking that covers all the regs for raised platforms and raised applies to anything above 1ft! Free to join and access the regs. There is another cut-off height (I cant remember what) above which the requirements get a bit more onerous (I think we are in the 'bit more onerous' bracket). Good idea, i love a nice balcany ?
  15. the bit i dont understand is why he would quote 86K+VAT. If he isnt VAT registered and not good on paperwork stuff then he could have just priced up the job using online builders merchents prices which are often quoted ex VAT. in which case his quote would be £xx labour plus £xx materials + VAT on the materials. WHy would he put VAT on materials and labour
  16. not even trying. Elec is already on site and temp connection done. Gas comes from other end as does sewage but from a slightly different direction. Western power have been great, SW water less so. Gas will be easy, sewage will be via private contractor and havnt approached BT yet
  17. OK, so basically, assuming both mains are the same pressure the only difference between going 25M long and 10M down V 80M long and 10M up is the loss associated with the length of the run. Height dif makes no difference. Given we are using 32mm pipe i would have thought the long run would be OK then. Certainly it will be a lot chepaer (trench on our land dirt cheap, trench in public footpath isnt) for the longer run
  18. Sorry, just been busy checking the elevations, its 10M up or 10M down depending which option i take. Yes 32mm supply pipe is planned and has been quoted by south west water for their 'uphill' option ?
  19. ok, not sure i understand that but then fluid dynamics confuses the hell out of me! i know its coming off a 100mm mains, but dont suppose that makes a difference.
  20. the 2nd quote is non utilities, but from an approved installer. The utilities didnt want to quote for that option as the path, although public, is apparantly privatly owned so i would have had to dig that... The approved installer was happy to quote because the house alongside the path were happy for the work to be done, and nobody knows who actually owns the path. Didnt seem to be an issue for Gas, electric or BT but water company didnt seem interested.
  21. we have two options:- one requires a small section of road to be dug up and then we are onto our plot. And then a long (circa 75M) run through our plot which rises about 7M. The other requires connecting to the mains on the road, and then 20 - 25M under a paved footpath which has every service imaginable under it including a gas main (but no water). This would then involve about 10M or so on our plot and is downhill all the way by about 5M. We have received a quote for the first optopn at £1,700 (to take it to a meter just inside our land which would have a temp supply fitted to it). We would then dig and run the long underground pipe later once the structure is up. This is for a 32mm feed. I am waiting for the quote for the 2nd option but assume it will be a lot more given the amount of work needed to run it under the path. But its closer and downhill... Any views on whether the first option would work or would the long uphill drag reduce water pressure to a trickle??
  22. we are using the propassive as the VPL / racking layer (on warm side of wall), with woodfibre insulation between and solid wood fibre external wrap
  23. got you, so that provides a more weather proof finish than T&G?
  24. what do you mean by 'board on board'? we have to use vertical WRC and as its in cornwall it will be wet thats for sure!
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