joth

According to City Plumbing: The updated safety standards are covered by BS7671 18th edition Amendment 4 G98 notification will still be required, within 28 days of connection Surely only a minority will actually bother with the G98 for plug-in. It feels to me like requiring purchase of a CB license in the 80s: technically a legal requirement but fat chance of enforcement, so long as one doesn't egregiously flout the regulations. That'd be my guess.

Beggars belief that gigabit broadband is in the building regs yet you have to go through such a pointless game to get it installed, even when doing all the hard work ones self. I'm in a similar situation, put in my own ducting 5 years ago as part of a major renovation, still can't get them to pull fibre through it as Computer Says No ducting present, even though their engineers very happily pulled a replacement copper line in through that very duct. Looks like WhyFibre may finally be launching in our area so lets see how they compare. They've already got the fibre blow tubes down our street

Same as existing hard-wired inverters really: they have anti-islanding tech that only activates the inverter after it senses stable grid waveform on the plug. How it deals with 2 or more inverters all on the same circuit being islanded together, I'm not sure.

That and people panic buying PV because energy prices are going up. (Same way as SUV sales make a distinct drop whenever fuel prices increase). Plus today's news that balcony solar will be legalised in the UK is only going to add to the short term spike in demand here.

I'm totally in agreement but fwiw a friend who swore by raspberry pis for everything had a good solution of making them all netboot and use tempfs+overlayfs to customise their images so no SD card required. (Maybe each node had one in write protect mode i don't recall). That was 6 or so years back, I'd assume cluster management of the things has become more common since but i can't see any references for a clear how-to I like your new approach more. First thing I do with every NUC is install proxmox

Because if I'm not onsite it's easy for the local contractor to say "oh yes, the heating and floor loop is working, the problem must be with {insert excuse here: poor insulation, high heat losses, bad room sensor}." if I can show the floor screed itself is not getting hot, it's much easier to save myself a call out. Not saying this is how it should be, just how I've found it to be in practice. Also, somewhat counterintuitively, floor sensors are in many ways easier to install as they happen much earlier in the programme. A room air sensor needs to be sympathetic to aesthetics, and coordinated with plastering and decoration, and that sometimes results in them being significantly delayed or even omitted, so functionally useless when the heating is being commissioned. FWIW when I've specified floor temperature probes I think they ended up being direct buried without the install tubes, yet I've had 0% failure rate. That's not a recommendation, just observation. This is with Dallas type encapsulated 1-wire probes.

As others say, the main use is for nerdy stat collection. I also use mine to protect the bamboo floor finishes when I'm overdriving the flow temp during cheap rate (to maximise energy delivery) but that's really just because I can, not something I'd design into a system. TBH the single biggest use I have for them in other installs I'm involved in is it gives me some independent data on whether the heat pump is working, and whether individual loops have issues. When I'm working remotely it doesn't matter how many times the local plumber says it's all working, if I can see the floor in a room is not warming up I know there's an issue on the hydronic side (probably air trap or the flow balancing valve screwed down too tight) and I can feed this back without an extra visit to site to confirm as much. Without the temperature probe expect a bit more time staring at the floor with a thermal camera while debugging the system. But in normal operation, it's not needed.

An alternative is to have automatic switch over to backup power, but with a long (multiple seconds) blackout period on grid loss before reenergising from backup. This way most heavy power users will automatically stop and not restart on power restore thereby shedding most the excess loads. All modern, digital controlled ones would; Certainly my ovens, microwave, washing machine and dishwasher, heat pump and hob all do. The immersion is the exception if hard powered on, but if on a PV diverter it's also taken care of. Even power tools probably power off too (as operator would have chance to release the trigger before the backup returns)

I just ordered 4x 6000mAh Li-ion batteries from AliExpress -- £5 each! They claim to be genuine Makita, of course they would wouldn't they, but I've had pretty good results from bulky NiCads I previously bought there so thought worth a punt Been really enjoying the pruning chainsaw I bought recently.

Interesting - even knowing this, i can't find any references to it whatsoever. (I don't do YouTube videos willingly though) The Apollo msr2 is the same thing going (has an optional temp sensor, but totally unreliable) and I've struggled with the same issue in devices I've built professionally in the past so i sympathise with their struggle. It's annoying some projects we struggle to get one temperature sensor per floor, others we have 4 per room 😂. Like London buses eh

Looks like they have a Pro edition in the works with PoE, which is nice to see. Odd they don't have Temperature + humidity in an "everything" sensor. That, plus and a nice flush-mount recessed housing, it'd start to look like a good solution for install throughout a build. Also, funny story: late last year I mis-remembered this thread, saw a discount on Apollo MSR2. Bought 2 and guess what? They're just as useless as the mmWave board I built myself (as using the exact same LD2450 as I was. I should have double checked what you wrote here before ordering LOL. Also interesting the Everything One/Pro also use the troublesome LD2450 , but coupled with PIR and another longer range mmWave SEN0609. Sounds hacky but I guess don't knock it if it works. Anyway I'll certainly stay clear of their Lite as it's LD2450 only and I now know for sure that's a disappointing result, exactly as you said here 12 months ago. Have you put custom ESPHome firmware on the Everything One? That is one thing Apollo got right - very easy to take control of it. I specifically wanted to adapt it to make HTTP request (or send UDP) to my server on every state change, to avoid polling state or having to use the HomeAssistant API. That'd be a nice thing to have built into the stock firmware like Shelly do (aka Webhooks)

My Starlink works fine at ground level so long as it has clear view of sky, although since then I've now mounted it on the roof of the campervan. I also setup a dedicated VPN from the campervan router to my home router, so there's minimal Starlink / USAian involvement in the datapath. I'd now much rather not be sending money with that man or his empire, but we are where we are - at least I can minimise the visibility of my traffic as it passes through his patch.

A couple thoughts on this: KNX is not a smart home solution, it's a communication protocol. If you want automations and phone or voice control, you need a home server / controller of some sort to run the Smarts, and it can use KNX as one of likely a number of protocols of varying levels of standardisation to control devices. (Dali, DMX, Modbus, 1Wire, and wireless things like Zigbee, Bluetooth, Thread and of course Wifi/IP are all possible) Once you've selected the smart home controller, and figured out what use cases involve it talking to the ASHP, the integration with the ASHP may be via KNX but I'd be happy to bet that's an uncommon and awkward pairing compared to having the controller talk something more natively supported by the heat pump (most often modbus RTU or eeBus) As others say, the use-cases for integrating the smart home and heat pump are not that compelling so it's definitely not something I'd prioritise over getting a robust self-contained ASHP install from a reliable installer. Here's a few things I do do in my install, but they're all in the nice-to-have bucket: Load compensation, SW tuneable weather compensation based on a forward looking forecast, TOU optimization, automatic "away" mode, automatic DHW boost when more people are staying in the house, remote monitoring and error reporting with automatic fallback to immersion and resistive heating when the ASHP fails (needed more often than I'd like; see above comment about prioritising a robust installation!), energy & COP monitoring. The one thing I *do* value is having the controller (Loxone miniserver in my case) coordinate the heating and cooling requirements across the house to avoid systems fighting each other; this can cover shading, passive stack ventilation, active boost & MVHR bypass ventilation, aircon, UFH, etc. But this doesn't need a very deep level of integration with the ASHP, on off control (and a way to switch heating/cooling mode, if supported) is sufficient.

DM sent, thanks

Well, another year, another L9 ecodan flow rate failure, this time it's the other flexi-pipe, I think. I've replaced it with the other one of the pair I bought, but being 750mm long it's ended up with a tight bend to get it in place, and I'm still only seeing 7 l/min not the 12 I used to have. Anyone got tip on where to buy 1" BSP x 28mm compression flexi for a reasonable price? I don't need "pre-insulated" MCS approved as I now have plenty of spare external insulation from the failed hoses. I *do* need something with a bit of longevity though, as I'm getting tired of all the maintenance these hoses introduce.