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So if not as in the YouTube video then how should it be done? Windows are already in.

Thanks for the full response - so is your reveal butted against the windows/doors and the compriband then hidden behind them and against cladding? Can't picture it but my visualisation will be a helluva lot worse than your woodbutchering.

Windows already in and secured to kit, facing bricks laid around them.

Set back - board on board cladding, 10mm will sit against the edge of the window with 12-34mm proud of it. Was intending to put the Compriband between window and the reveal.

Sounds much more straightforward, thanks. Anyone experience of compribanding openings to timber cladding?

Window installer suggested we should apply Compriband in advance of bricks being laid - brickie should then compress if needed. However this video suggests it should/could be retrofitted. Also, is it just the same process for timber cladding?

Yes - plumber says it's a rubbish idea and you can't just tee off the pipework but need to run it separately. Indeed!

SIPs kit with additional PIR added which provides the airtight layer. Tape rather than paint required where ducts are flexible?

It's second hand as it was my partner who spoke with him, but think he suggested they can be electric and plumbed in? Is it an either or? Thanks - does that mean you need to run pipework from the heat pump (so separate to your main run from the tank)?

We'll have MVHR, a SVP, ASHP connection to tank plus some smaller ones for lights and an outside tap. What's the best way to deal with them for airtightness (and will one size fit all)? I have two tins of airtightness paint in stock which would be my preference but don't know if it should be used in conjunction with grommets, tape etc. and whether it's suitable for all sizes of opening.

We plan to have UFH on ground floor only with towel heaters to upstairs bathroom and ensuite. Our ASHP contractor has suggested we should plumb in our towel heaters so they can also run off the hot water tank too - any views either way? Plumbers starting this week and hadn't specced for it but if it's worth doing we can get a bit more pipe ran. Thanks.

Not sure if this is the right section but can't find anything more appropriate. I'm trying to work out how best to finish timber cladding while allowing it to sit above the splashline (underbuild is currently blockwork to external ground level but intend on bricking up 2-4 courses of facing brick). Is there a fairly standard cill product that I'm missing?

In #37 of plans that didn't quite go to plan, I have 280mm from the top of my underbuild (two courses of blockwork, the top of which meets the external ground level to build up) to the underside of the three external doors. Should I just have the facing bricks under the doors cut by 20mm horizontally or is there a better solution - presumably 5mm mortar for the bottom courses won't cut it and would be odd looking even if it did?

Thanks for the response - brickie says rates are up (though have been negotiated down a bit) now he's had a full look at the site and realised how much loading is required. Which sounds reasonableish but also think he's chancing his arm knowing I'm locked in as it would otherwise be very difficult to get a couple of squads starting at short notice.

Spoke with plumber about this and he doesn't seem to think we will unless we're particularly anal about having very cold water instantaneously.

Any reason I shouldn't use the following: 25*50 for counterbattening for timber cladding 25*50 for battening service void for electrics (backing boxes) 35*50 for battening service void for plumbing (22mm pipework) Cheers.

Any pitfalls worth sharing? Will be cladding next month and particularly interested in detailing for insect mesh and corners.

John, did you take any pictures? One of next jobs on the list.

I know it's location dependent but just wondering if anyone has some recent rates? I was quoted £45/m2 last year and the brickie has updated his quote - thinking he's got the job locked in - and is now quoting £72/m2. I know there's been inflation over the past year but that looks like it's taking the proverbial.

Not sure what looks more fantastic - the house or the plot.

They are clearly tasteless morons but looks like they delivered it at £833/m2 so can't be that daft!

Thanks both - looking through my notes it's Cemfloor and Truscreed I've looked at previously with suppliers, will pick back up again with them.

Thanks - I'll look into it.

I've been priced £5,050 for supply and install of a 4.92kW array system (with spark having to do a wee bit of work to enable it). Looking on Midsummer Wholesale I can get the panels alone for about £2.4k. I don't have the expertise to find a supplier for all the other bits - invertors and the like - but does anyone with it know roughly how much extra the ancillary bits are likely to be and I could work out the cost differences in splitting supply and labour? Thanks.

Should all the flowable/liquid screeds self-level or is there a specific product that needs to be used? Our slab is out more than we'd like.