Barryscotland

Looking at a green star 4000 and the boiler range is 3kw to 18kw so thinking that should do the job

We’re going heat only for ease of repair in the future, expansion chamber went on our last one and it was boiler of the wall and stripped to change it. Very little seems to be accessible on modern boilers. We won’t be looking to heat the house to anything above 20 degrees max, we are all used to caravan temperatures now and even in our old house the thermostat never went above 20. the calculated demand is 18kw but that’s going to be if everything is being heated from nothing?

Lol We’ve spent a year and a half in a single glazed caravan with no central heating…. My two kids (now 9 n 3) know what cold is but surprisingly it’s not one of the things they complain about. We’re also Scotland, we went into our new build today which is nearing the end of first fix but still no front door fitted and our first thought was “ this is warmer than our caravan”. In hindsite should of spent the extra on a swanky warmer caravan.

it’s a new build with insulated slab, walls n roof space and each room is in its own air tight ish envelope so I’m thinking most of the time the boiler is only going to be ticking over, the hot water is also heated from the solar panels when power isn’t needed elsewhere.

Bungalow, does have attic trusses but if we do convert the attic it will be a long time away.

we are 30mins from Stirling so will give them a phone

Yes purely for decoration, builder (retired relative and done our founds and doing blockwork to save us on some labour fees) has cast all the base course blocks himself instead of using 4” block as they will be visible at the bottom of the pebble dash and he wanted them to be more aesthetic, he now wants to make the quoins but it was 2 weeks + to make the base course blocks so if I can just buy something to save time I will. cement bands round the inside of window only Will look into these

160 m2 of underfloor heating and a 240l unvented cylinder in a new build. On the building warrant it says a gas 15kw heat only boiler. My plumber is telling me I need minimum 18kw and a plumber who I was blethering to while I was fixing his van reckoned 12kw would be more than adequate. Any thoughts or sure fire way of working it out, I don’t want to undersize or overkill

Our external skin is 4” block which is going to be pebble dashed, we would like quoins on the corners. Can anybody advise if they can be bought anywhere? Preferably slightly wider than than 4” so they don’t need to be stepped out. Builder we have said he could make a mold and cast them but we are running out of time to get the block up before winter arrives.

Any recommendations on boiler makes? We bought an expensive Worcester green star when we renovated our old house and had 4 breakdowns in 4 years so this time I’m thinking is there any point buying an expensive make and looking at a cheaper valiant or alpha, or is this false economy? it’s a 24kw heat only boiler we are looking for

the impression I got was he knows exactly where he would put them but doesn’t want to be responsible for it if building control comes along afterwards picking fault. I think I will ask him to mark them on a drawing and I will email it to the building control office and ask them to confirm they are happy with there locations

Definitely none on any of the drawings, on the building warrant it just states “expansion joints as required” SE is abroad for 2 weeks, I have emailed him but don’t hold out much hope of a reply till he gets back. The house is 20m x 10m so will definitely need a few joints. Really don’t want to have to delay the bricky

There are no expansion joints marked on any of our drawings, the builder has finished the base course and is finishing the cavity fill this weekend ready to get onto the walls next week and needs to no where the expansion joints are to be. I phoned the architect to ask and he said it would be the structural engineer that dictated the locations and he is on holiday. Is there a rule book to follow so I can figure out the locations or is “every job different” as the builder says?

Has anybody had there cemfloor screed polished? If so can you post a pic of the finished item and a rough idea of cost involved.

They have the top and bottom part of the manifold on but no valves or gauges etc. This may be because there is no plasterboard up yet and manifold is temp fitted to a piece of wood across the partition, pipes are stapled to the insulation. I think im going to give them a phone and ask them to come out and fill and pressurize before the screed is poured

Our screed is getting poured next Friday and the plumber laid the ufh pipes yesterday, as he was leaving he said he’d be back after the screed was poured. The pipes are open at both ends at the manifold with no water in them, am I wrong in thinking they should be filled before screed is poured to lower the chance of them floating? Also presuming he should of pressure tested them for leaks before they are buried in screed, would this of been done with air hence no water in pipes?

That’s good news, was expecting to need another piece of overpriced paperwork. last question, probably a stupid one, we haven’t got mains power into the house other than an extension lead from the caravans supply. Should we leave the panels unconnected or can we wire up the inverter even tho any power produced has no where to go?

yes in Scotland, we ended up fitting straight onto sarking ignoring the advice of the seller but couldn’t see how it would work any other way. does anybody no if the install needs to be certified by a solar person or is it just signed of with the rest of the electrical stuff? New build in Scotland

Dry but not much sun for rest of week. we do but joiners want to get the ceilings up and apparently there is some plasterboard that needs to go on the walls before rest of the partitions can go up.

They are back next week all going well on the job they are on now.

Thanks for the replies. There’s a Dry Pro 5000 which looks like an industrial sized machine for sale locally so I will go have a look at that tomorrow rather than firing up the space heater for a few days like I was originally planning.

We are now finally properly wind and watertight but have a fair bit of wet timber internally mainly due to the joiners going nuts with the staple gun when fitting the roof membrane. Is it possible/ necessary to dry out the inside before the joiners come back to start putting up the plasterboard? Open all the windows and fire up a space heater for a day?

Our kit didn't come with top or bottom metaL flashings just a roll of roofflex 330mm wide flexible sealing strip and a roll of deks fast flash 280mm wide. Anybody else use this instead of metal flashings? Which goes top and which bottom?

If I strip the sarking away I'l be left with nothing but trusses and a giant opening straight into my attic space. Will speak to company that suppled the kit and the roofer, see what they recommend

I'd thought if I made a frame from 25mm tile batton it would get it up enough to run the cables and wee bit of ventiliation to the panels, Then put a bend to suit the extra height in the lateral flashing. Would be alot easier to mount it straight onto the roof tho.