Barryscotland

I’m going to be framing out round my stove to form a chimney breast with tv mounted in it (tv above stove is bad idea I no) an was going to use u and c track rather than timber but can’t figure out how to form the left to rights off of the front to backs. Really bad terminology but hopefully somebody understands and can explain. I can put the top rail on ceiling but for the bottom rail that’s above stove what do you use to support it coming of the side partitions?

ours won't sign off till disabled access pathway, parking and ramp are in, handrails round our patio / garden wall round front and they now want a SE drawing for the garden wall as its slightly more than 600 high at one end (and no I cant just build the ground up a wee bit in front), tarred Pavement and bellmouth done. All depends on the BCO you get on the day

Using black limestone slabs to form a hearth on top of cemfloor, anybody no if I should use cement or tile adhesive to bed? If cement do I still need to prime the cemfloor? Thanks

We ended up just going with where the brickey recommended, building control never looked twice at them when he was out. He did check we had weep vents in all needed locations. Think as long as you don't go over the max distances in the guidelines you be fine.

Mares tail it helps if you bruise plant before spraying. I normally stamp through it before spraying, then leave it to die off which is normally a few weeks after its rained.

We have this stuff, spreads like wildfire if left unchecked and nigh on impossible to get rid off. You name it we've tried it from industrial glysophate not the garden centre stuff to salt, salt water, bleach an antifreeze, boiling water, an others. Kills it but doesnt stop it coming back allbeit in smaller quantities each time. There is stuff out there you can buy that is marketed just for this weed but I couldn't see anything on the ingredients different from the glysophate I was using. Check your neighbours gardens for it as well as no point you dealing with yours if there not dealing with theres. Good luck and act NOW before it becomes a real problem

Ours had thousands of staples and also tears where the stapler had hit it. According to roofer it should of been clout nails under the overlap and tile batten going down the roof every how ever often then as it was slated he would snap the batten of as he worked up the roof. Better to flap about a bit then death by staples was his words

So chap coming to view final drain test tomorrow, thought I better recheck tonight an it’s only building up to 20mm an holding for 5 minutes whereas few weeks ago it was up to 80 an dropped to 40 over 5 minutes. It is staying at 20 so is holding pressure. Is any positive pressure a pass or is there a figure? No idea what’s changed in last few weeks, made sure traps where full etc.

They do want to view it tested but at least I no it’s going to pass. There normally pretty good at coming out within a few days of being asked

capped to of (using a cork) and now holding pressure so all is good 👍. Another box ticked ☑️

My condensate doesn’t appear to have a trap. I will need to unbox the boiler to get to the pipe to cap it as pipe is glued every where else I can get to. I took the pump of an blew so I could “feel” what was happening. I can build pressure but it drops to zero almost instantly after stop applying pressure. Traps are all full, going to unbox the boiler to get to condensate

Does a condensate pipe need to be blanked off for drain test? I can build pressure up by constant blowing but pressure drops as soon as I stop. Hoping it’s not a shower tray problem

hes found the drawings and that shows the pipe at just over a meter so should only have to go down 2m which will be fine, so will get digging tonight.

They want an additional 16m2 drainage field. Back Flooding of the tank isn’t an issue as he’s lucky enough to have a soakaway overflow pipe to a field drain. It’s is a combined foul an rain water soakaway

Linking a new soakaway to the existing. Area needs to be increased as house extension has increased the possible occupancy.

Yes but if the water level is even close to the pipe level then the soakaway depth is going to be at least 2.5m down which is deeper than I can dig without digging the digger in

A friend needs to add extra area to his soakaway and as I have a digger had asked me to help. his drawing shows a new 16m2 soakaway linked into the existing soakaway for sceptic tank. My worry is that where the new soakaway is going, due to the ground level difference it’s going to need to be deep an when I look in the sceptic tank the water level is 1.5m down and my understanding was that that water level is the level of the outlet to the soakaway? Is that correct? if not is there a way to figure out the pipe level from the water level or it just a case of dig to expose the pipe?

Our breathable membrane leaked like a sieve and we had to hold off on the screed getting poured till all the slate was on which held us up over a month, roofer said it was down to all the staples that the joiners had used to attach it to the sarking and that it should not leak. We never redid ours which we will probably come to regret. Different setup than yours though as just slate onto sarking

In pkc the planners apply a condition that it is used solely for ancillary purpose, can’t be rented out, air bnb etc or title split to be made into separate dwelling at a later date. All of which we are fine with. It’s for our parents now and then us when we’re decrepate an the kids have main house an hopefully look after us

The hope was a 50m2 self contained bungalow that inlaws can live in independently but with us on hand when needed. Architect is of the opinion that as long as it has shared electric supply etc all is good.

Im going to be putting in for planning for a detached annex soon and looking on the plannning portal a local to me annex has been turned down with this statement. “The proposal would result in the provision of ancillary accommodation, which has no physical or functional relationship to the host dwellinghouse. Anybody tell me what that means

yes white sand n white cement. Will give the lime a try on the next section

We got the house scratch coated last year and then the weather turned and the Builder (retired father inlaw) went into hibernation. He's now started to roughcast but the final coat is drying out far to quickly for him to get it smoothed out before throwing stones at it. Is there any magic stuff than can be added that might not of been available when he was working 13 years ago to slow the drying time? Scratch coat is being well and truly soaked before hand.

This is how we ended up finishing it. Still need to make the date stone for the hole thats left and in hind sight should of bought some brown vents instead of using the whites we already had. Just need to build up the ground level now then roughcast the rest.

I believe it’s only from the start date submitted after building warrant granted that you can claim from so you won’t be able to claim anything back from a planning permission date .