BotusBuild

We find ourselves in posession of a bit extra 12.5mm standard plasterboard (about 40-50 boards!). Wondering if there is a way of using this in a bathroom, say by "painting" it with a PVA solution? Or maybe a waterproof sealant, as we have used as part of our "basement" waterproofing on the outside wall (we also have some of this left over 😁)

I just re-read this blog and noticed date error - the GRP roof went on in July 2023, not 2022.

Unless, like markc, you are looking for something particular, be flexible in your search such as - location - size - blank space vs demolish and rebuild vs renovate (in general order of flexibility in what you can build) Keep in mind what you would like achieve with your new house, but don't necessarily be tied to achieving it exactly. Work out how you propose to finance buying the plot, and then paying for the materials and any labour you may need to bring in. (whatever you think this will cost add 20% contingency - some may say more (or less)) Good luck with your search.

That's not going to work for us. We only have about 65mm to play with. We have 100mm R45 acoustic insulation between joists with 18mm ply t&g on top of the joists in situ already. This is upper floor living areas

Yes, I think it needs to sit on some other insulation as stated above, and maybe a thin hardboard layer before final floor on top

@SteamyTea The answer I got- the thermal conductivity value is 0.034W/mk. The boards are an XPS insulation with cement coating on two sides of the boards.

is our living space (upside down well insulated house) would be possible.

Hmm, neither can I. Have asked the question

Has anyone used this for their UFH? https://theufhgroup.co.uk/products/tekwarm-lite-lp-ufh-board-1200mm-x-600mm We have 18mm T&G board down on upper floor already, with about 50-60mm space left for floor buildup inc UFH. This, or something similar is our way forward. Anyone used anything similar that they would recommend?

Or a long radius drainage pipe (usually 110mm, other sizes may be available) Depends on the external diameter of the ASHP pipes 🙂 Think ahead!

Yes, they can. Best to install a pipe (conduit) through which you can feed the pipes at a layer date. This also provides protection to your ASHP piping

Crazy Devonians 🙂

Remember, cream first for you 🙂

The materials and initial design comes from them, but I got fed up arguing and adapted it to what I knew would work for what I had. Their free design was minimal as already expressed, but I had some experience with ventilation already, so k ew of some of the gotchas of vent locations etc

This is what I had to do, through a 200mm concrete wall!! Unit in plant room Two x 180mm feed and extract pipes Tees of the above to two distribution boxes on one side of the wall, and the 180mm go thru the concrete to two more distribution boxes

ICF was my choice - mainly DIY build with access for concrete pumps and lorries. Each floor took less than 2 weeks (if you ignore self imposed and imposed delays). Take into account who is doing the building, access to the site, how quick you want to get built, how much money you have to spend on trades (brickies, groundworkers etc) and how quickly you can get hold of trades people, especially in Cornwall! Good Luck

Thank you all

Thoughts? We have plenty of deep areas where we can put this that will not be used to grow anything or that will affect water courses or aquifers.

Glad to be of service

Ratchet handle "closed". Have the slot which the strap goes through in the position you can see through it (may need to ratchet it round before closing the ratchet.) Feed the fly end, or the loose end, of the strap from the bottom of the slot up towards you - you should be able to see it coming through if the slot is lined up nicely as above. Pull the loose end through as much as you can to take up the slack. Holing the loose end hand tight, now start ratcheting. Tie off any spare strap

An alternative is to use GRP (fibreglass). Messy, but will mold round that batten nicely. You could go all the way along the join, making it one continuous seal. Thinking about it, this probably the better solution in this situation

I think the sticky EPDM is the answer, but not in one piece. A piece over the batten first, which goes up the slope say 10-15 cm, and also across the flat board by the same amount. Then a piece that comes down the slope and overlaps the first piece. Where it gets to the batten, overlap as far as you can, probably only 3-4 cm, molding it round as best you can, getting it to stick as well as possible. Finally, slap some of our favourite sealant, CT1, across all the joins of both pieces. HTH

Sorry, this is not good news, so skip reading if you want. SWMBO worked at John Lewis as a specialist in the curtain and blind section. For any window that does not have 4 right angles i.e. is rectangular or a square, blinds or curtains are a bespoke design and make (handmade, and it's a skill). As a result of her experience we dumped the 9 windows that had a 9 degree slope at their top edges. Yes, just 9 degrees she was not prepared to work with! For the smallest gable end type windows, you'll be looking at £3K upwards. You may find a local curtain maker who could do something cheaper, but for blinds you have little choice of manufacturers who will entertain you.

We have Origin windows and sliding doors. They do not fit themselves, like many manufacturers. If you know who is going to fit the windows (hopefully not the builder!), then get the fitters to have a chat with the builder

Will be looking at this in addition to the acoustic rockwool (or similar) that will be between the joists. Do you know if standard plasterboard is sufficient? This is only for a single domestic building, not between flats or offices.