scottishjohn

question ? what are walls going to be ,ade of then

I,m glad you mentioned this i fitted a new one to my workshop when i split it into units I already had two of them when i built the worsgop and in 30 years they never gave a problenm beiing open and closed many times each day so when I neede another one i went for same again " bolton brady euro fold" it came with the frame work "C" section 6" pillars for both ends with plates on top to bolt too the RSJ main beam ,a 6x6 rsj and no fixings to anything ellse ,just supported on the end "c" beams which are concreted into floor the opening was 5m and the door unit which hung on it was 650 kgs -had to bororw a fork lift truck to fit all this yes there was a track for the doorrollers to go into and ,yes spacers ,but I think that was more to do with allowing for builders getting things wrong than anything else and of course when its open the weight is all at one end and there is no weight supported at bottom just a guide rail for the doors set in the floor If a box beam was stronger or cheaper they would have used that ,,and bear in mind this is a very movable load so there would be twisitng load as well as you open and close it so i think that shows for a given size RSJ is sronger

I go back to your first post 25mm deflection ? that must induce alot of strain in the beam and i am not sre how you work with a 25mm bend in the centre of the beam I am not convinced of his argument on torsion (twisting load ) especially if the roof joists which are going to be attached to the beam or done by infilling the beam with wood ,and attach joists to that it could not twist really as it would have no here to go being tight to roof joists If i was really worried about twist then weld flat section to inside between top and bottom of beam ,or bolt sections of "c" section int hat space If all that is loading the beam is the roof then I do not see an RSJ of that size having muuch defelction same could be said of bolting or welding a flat plate of 10mm to inside of box beam maybe you are happy with just packing the bifolds suitably to allow for the 56mm deflection of your box beam ? and yes if does not cause a problem use the full length of the beam ,but if it does bned that much the ends of only held by the roof will probably make a gap under neath them if it bending that much ? must be somewhere on web you can find a calculation sheet for bend of different types of beam plus you can fill the outside web with insulation ,not sure how he intends to insulate a box section but I,m no SE just a guy who has been building all sorts of structures both buildings and vehicles for a long time

would always be my first suggestion to isolate the problem to start with remember for the air to gap work best it needs to be a clear gap vented to the eves or cold roof space I would still seriously consider a parge coat with water proof addative on the internal stone work and make moisture go back out through your stone work and not in If you are wnaitng to keep the stone look outside to fit stick down LVT the moisture level in the concrete floor needs to be less than 3.75% maybe be worth buying a suitable humidity meter to check the walls and floor now took 2 weeks of my UFH on at 20c the dry out the concrete sub base and screed + self lveling coat on top of the UFH and the sub base had been laid for nearly a year so that sounds like a non starter can you suffer loosing some head room and fit a dpc across the concrete then a thin screed? or at least a liquid tanking coat going up the walls about a metre ? rising damp does not go any higher than that I am told

having been involved incompressors for garages all my working life size of hose from compressor is a usual cause of poor performance as small pipes will not pass enough air especially if they are long 3/8" or 10mm should be miniumum not 5/16" as some supply ,fine for air line but not for air tools the 9" air grinder and 1" air wrench used 1" hoses coupled to the galvanaised ring main at 1/25" size sander or air grinder are very thirsty on air supply I would question the need these days for a big compressor + air wrenchs as battery powered wrenchs are so good and can be used anywhere you won,t find many garages using air tools now secondly size of receiver (stroage tank ) you can do quite alot if receiver is large enough even with a smallish compressor anything under 10cfm is a toy and the general rule is 1hp per 4cfm and if thinking of spraying, anything under 20cfm will never run a spray gun and air fed mask continously ,and you must use a water seperator when painting or using an air fed mask cold air from shed then compressed makes lots of water if compressor is working hard and yes the cheap chineese diy units do not last,running to fast to get output to last i had an IR 25cfm with 200litre tank which i got secondhand 40years ago and was still going fine when i gave up but fitted a screw compressor to run the paint shop 40cfm and run sanders ,grinders,spray guns and air fed masks etc and air never got hot,so cut down amount of moisture it made If you still got oldone plumb its tank into the new one to increase capacity

I would not be putting that in a post anywhere ,If i were going to do such a thing , getting administrators on here to delete it would be a good idea

I would work out the price for the area of grp you would need to lay ,maybe tin roof will not be that much more expensive ?

I guess we are not going to agree ,but even the picture you show above shows the centre web is biggest giving the strength the other picture with holes in the beam is to decrease weight as at its hieght it is big enogh to take the load as for victroisn bridges etc that was their only choice as no rolling mills or fancy steels and no welding Im sorry you are just wrong if load is vertical then a tall centre web will take the load in a thinner section tha huge flat plates at top and bottom of beams you dont believe me then do the steel rule test i suggested above and see how weight it will support if truly vertical and not allowed to bend sideways or look at a truck chassis the main beams are always about twice the height of the top and bottom plates and usally a C section again to save weight for load required even better look at a 100ton low loader chassis and see how that is made and they get serius loading with all the transient loads of roads or look at aircraft wing main spars plenty examples of what i am saying is true

I remember reading somewhere that for every 1 degree you over heat your house it can be 7% more cost but you stated the obvious --up the insulation as first job choice then type of heating system next

I would respectfully disagree it is the centre web that gives the rigidity ,so height and thickness of that gives the strength ,top and bottom are to give it sideways rigidiity to keep centre web vertical even a plastic 12" ruler is stiff wehn on its edge try hitting your knuckles with it edge on ,then do same with it flat

question why RHS and not RSJ of larger thickness material what is the attraction of a box beam? are the flat roof joists hanging on this as well? 8mm seems thin to me and not suprised at deflection in that length plus easy to to weld or bolt in extra thickness to centre of RSJ if still worried about deflection when all said and done it is the vertical part that gives the strength and flat plate is cheap and easy to fill with insulation

to use a local pgrase "seems along way for a short cut" arough surface will make good bonding for the render or parge coat what ever you want to call it you did not say if outside of wall is lime mortar or cement

1in 50 slope ? how long is you garden that means 1ft rise the ramp will need to be 50ft long!! how much height do you need to go?

well getting time to sort a network etc I am not a computer nerd so have little idea of what i need my intial thoughts are a 24way prewired hub theniwil need oconnect to aphone line or router of some sort the house has been wired for this already ,but the sparky has said its not his job and that he knows little of these things I have about 20 wires all terminating in the plant room a point in the loft with mains supply for a router so tom ysimple mind iam assuming they all go into the box and at the wall sockets ijust connect what ever i want to them last time i got involved with this sort of thing it was the 80,s for the computer system in my garage with multiple terminals etc so tell me boys what i need simply please

how will you accomplish this the weight of even small stones like i did my firepond will be large and i do not think they will stay on if you intend to stick them to the straw bales then there is the problem of finding enough stones of suitable thick ness for a large area i used approx 2 tons of granite pieces + 2tons of sand + 12 bags cement to fix them and that is not to a full wall height as you will have with a house and it is very time consuming and can only be done when it is dry and need covering for at least 2days to make sure the mortar does not get washed by rain so for full nouse you will be taking 4 times that amount I used them as i have a very large volume of them on site from previous quarrying and granite set making in the past the only way i see it wroking is if you clad outside first with exterior ply and attch a mesh to it to give something for the mortar to stick to yes you could buy stone cladding panels ,but not cheap and they would require a solid frame work to fix them to I have no problem with straw as insulation where you are it will be good if thick enough ,but not as the outer wall which will still need wood for window and door openings .