Mr Punter

I think if you unscrew the white waste pipe - which you should be able to do by hand - you may be able to get to the waste from underneath. Failing that, you may need to replace the waste. Is it a clicker one?

Is there anyone around that you can blame?

Be very wary as width, length and depth are often confused. It is errors such as these that can lead to screwups. For kitchens I consider length and width to be side-to-side and depth to be front-to-back. Height and thickness can also cause confusion. With some of the induction hobs in a 600 deep worktop there is often only 50mm remaining front and back after the cutout.

These worktops often arrive with the cut out not fully formed, to give it more strength when moving and fitting.

The cardboard tubes are good for protecting metal profiles. I use a chop saw to cut them up for disposal.

The masking tape sounds sensible. Run round the join with a fugi to remove any excess, then remove tape before it cures.

Truss clips to prevent uplift, noggins to prevent twisting.

It is what I would do, especially in Scotland.

Just go with the original SE design. Send the drawings to Keystone or IG for a take-off and quote for the lintels.

+1 Adjacent cupboard.

Is this stuff just plastic?

It is to strengthen the brickwork. Try demolishing a wall with brick reinforcement and you will see. A bit like reinforced concrete v not.

Please shut up about radon. It is low where you are. More chance of being run over by a milk float.

They are not eating the wood, just using the fibres to make nests. If it is coated you should not have any issues as the wasps like the weathered stuff.

The paving may still shift about as the ground swells and shrinks. Not much you can do on a domestic patio.