Mr Punter

On a gable with a raking roof abutment and windows, it is hardly glory work!

Stapling the tape on may help straighten it up a bit. Get it clad ASAP.

Looks fine. I would normally expect to see vertical stapled on tape to identify where the studs are.

Keep the higher bits as close to the surface as possible, especially of it is path only. 300mm min cover is fine and you could do less at a pinch. Use the mini shallow ICs at the sides and back and for corners where you will add a 45 either end. Avoid clashes with the surface water system. Make sure the foundation is low enough where the pipes cross at the front. This can just be short sections.

If you are that tight on fall, could you raise the building by 200mm? Hardly noticeable I would think.

I don't know why you redesigned this. Are you short on fall? You have about the same number of ICs as the original. Not sure why the line at the front has moved 6 metres. It may prove another obstruction. Very large property! Can you feed the drawing to an AI chat?

I must say that if it means application details are easier to complete to LA satisfaction then the AI approach sounds like a win all round.

You could fully fill with 140mm pir between studs and line internally with 50mm pir, held on with 38 x 50 battens to create a service cavity. You could put the 50mm on the outside but you will need different wall ties and another layer of breather membrane etc. You will need about 30mm cavity to the brickwork. If the timber frame co quote for the insulation it saves a lot off faff and mess on site.

Insulation tends to be mineral wool or PIR. What is the proposed "rain screen"?

This type of unit MUST be installed and commissioned by a legally certified F-gas installer.

And while you are doing this you could look at modifying or replacing the first floor cills. It is difficult to chase out cement mortar from soft bricks without damage. Do some research on what you want.

So, house > IC1 (picking up house, dry) > IC2 (inspection only, clear flowing water) > off somewhere else? Is the water meter showing any flow? When you flush a WC do you see the flush in both ICs?

You don't need a waste pipe behind the machine. Plumb it into the sink waste and no big plastic pipe to worry about. No upstand pipe needed as it uses the sink trap. Very much a standard way to do this.

Everything in the sink cupboard. Be aware that you cannot always change the handing of the porthole doors, just the furniture doors. You will need to take a decent chunk out of the middle support panel. For electrics you either need 2 sockets on the inside side of the sink unit or trailing socket under the plinth. Leave the plugs on the appliances for warranty purposes.

Can you insulate the whole sloped area between the rafters with PIR with a thin sheet under? It may be simpler to get rid of the knee walls to get access and put them back after.