Mr Punter

spirit level accuracy not required but obvs the fall must be in the correct direction.

Be interesting to see the as-built version of the drawings. That is a lot of different products being applied at the substructure level. The insulation could be held in place with wall ties, although you could just use blown beads.

This could be a good application for Compacfoam, so after you have cut out the screed and removed the insulation you can infill with Compacfoam and sit the staircase plate on that.

Get in touch with your floor beam supplier. Tell them the weight of the staircase, the size of the footplate and the type of blocks you used. If they can't give an answer your SE will.

It does look a lot better as a house than a bungalow.

If it was done in 2006 there may be some drawings. You would think there would be a beam or lintel spanning above the window to support the masonry for the new first floor.

If it is rubble filled why not claim it is compliant (if asked) and see where you stand. If you top it off with gravel or permeable block paving I can't see questions being raised. I have had a SUDs condition and it was never checked.

The yellow is gas pipe laid directly in the ground. The pic is from a development of 3 flats. 2 of the boxes feed the supplies round to the back of the building.

All the built-in microwaves I see have a factory fitted moulded 3 pin plug.

I think you should break out a spreadsheet. If this is holiday lets, is it all year? Are they paying for the energy or is it included? All electric is cheap to install and maintain and hopefully you have 100A supplies. Forget lpg as expensive, inconvenient and higher risk.

I have used black gas hockey stick. Tricky to get hold of.

If you post up the reasons for refusal it may help.

Yes use treated timber. You will be able to sit the window on it. You can fix to it as well if it is OK to screw through the frames.

I think you will need to cut the plaster coving square and scribe an infill to the ceiling. They will need to do the ends anyway so hopefully will be doing a decent job. If there is a cornice on the wardrobes (I can't really see from the photo) it may need to be removed.

No, you can use timber. You may need 38 x 63 cls to go round the opening between the blockwork and the SIPs. Fit them before the blockwork goes in.