Mr Punter

Truss clips to prevent uplift, noggins to prevent twisting.

It is what I would do, especially in Scotland.

Just go with the original SE design. Send the drawings to Keystone or IG for a take-off and quote for the lintels.

+1 Adjacent cupboard.

Is this stuff just plastic?

It is to strengthen the brickwork. Try demolishing a wall with brick reinforcement and you will see. A bit like reinforced concrete v not.

Please shut up about radon. It is low where you are. More chance of being run over by a milk float.

They are not eating the wood, just using the fibres to make nests. If it is coated you should not have any issues as the wasps like the weathered stuff.

The paving may still shift about as the ground swells and shrinks. Not much you can do on a domestic patio.

I have seen the plinth seals that wrap around the bottom edge. They are friction fit and could be replaced. They are probably a better solution as you don't have to rout a groove.

Just look around for trees. Even if they are small you need to treat them as full height. Hawthorn, Oak and Willow are big drinkers!

They can be expensive as well!

With the over fascia vents the airflow comes up from underneath. The plastic eaves membrane support trays are better than bitumen but either should be fine.

There is sometimes quite a lead time on wind posts. How many have been specified? Somewhere along the line you will need structural drawings and calcs that comply with part A. You can normally bolt the windposts to the slab or concrete them in. They add a surprising amount of strength and stiffness to a wall. The alternative could be some brick reinforcing - like train track in the mortar beds - but I don't know if it will work for your design.

It is not bad, just very unpleasant to breathe in, stings in cuts and eyes, dusty. Much more volume than cement. It does make the mortar nice and creamy and workable though. I wouldn't cut the bag in half.