Spinny

Renderer is here and has kindly routed out the blockwork, put the cable through some channel I had bought and mucked it into the wall to make ready for rendering over. (just thought I'd say what happened rather than leave open ended)

Who owns the shared access way, and precisely what gives shared access rights over it ? Are you measuring from the outside of the house wall, or the outside edge of the eaves and gutter ?

Personally I'd say have some consideration for your neighbour. Even if you can do something it doesn't mean you should do it. Probably not a popular sentiment these days.

Should I use this stuff ? https://www.insulationuk.co.uk/products/tekwarm-reveal-board-high-performance-laminate?variant=43387649261749&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=*Pmax|Ins.Plasterboard30+&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAoNNCLQ_tq0b6Prkw491vqllba1g2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7_mygKjujAMVrpFQBh2LXgvDEAQYASABEgJc7_D_BwE

You don't need a concrete floor for u/floor heating of course. That photo I posted above now has underfloor heating. We were going to have a between the joist system but changed to a within the board system from Omnie when the builder cocked up the level of the concrete slab. (Insulation between the joists, 22mm pre routed board with a matching pre routed overboard - about 35mm thick on the joists.)

See the sketch. I have the end of an external wall running into the internal area alongside a window. I am wondering what level of insulation to use across the end of the spur of external wall (where the external wall was cut back to create an opening). I can use some insulated plasterboard on the inside of the window reveal, but the end of the spur will be plastered over (wet plaster) with the adjacent brick wall. I guess I need a little bit of insulation between it and the plastering to avoid a possible cold spot in a utility room. Suggestions ? Thin piece of PIR ? Something I could spray it with ? Aerogel matting ?

Photo from when ours were done in case it helps. Took them 4 goes and a visit from the structural engineer.

With a Talentofill. In our case fed from our shower mixer, so no taps needed at the edge of the bath anywhere. Saves 3 or 4 inches when fitting stuff into 2m by 2m and looks nice and contemporary. If you think about a bath the dimension you care about is the size of the inside 'hole'.

Wasn't sure if the render would attack the cable insulation over time ? If clipping to the wall, what clips, plastic ones or the metal wrap around ones ? Does any metal have to be stainless steel to prevent rust (including clip nails) ?

@ETC Thanks. You have got me wondering, do you think I should be adding some insulation on the inside as sketched in red in the attached image ?

Should they not have capping - plastic, metal ? and then render over that ? And presumably fix the outside socket box onto the render afterwards rather than render around it ?

Our bathroom is 2m by 2m. We put a narrower 725mm wide door in to the same pattern as the other doors - you would never notice. And don't forget you don't need to have bath taps, we don't.

Couldn't you cut a section of the joist out and put a couple of trimmers in hung off the concrete block wall to create a gap for the toilet pipe wherever you need it ? (Or can you not do this with posi joists ?) Not keen on close coupled myself, much prefer the look of back to wall with a hidden cistern. Looking at your layout again, I am not sure it is ideal to have the toilet opposite the basin. The photographed layout above looks better. I tend to prefer the toilet somewhat tucked away as it is not normally a focal point and is a possible source of hygiene risk. Build a half height stud wall out across the end of the shower nearest the window, then turn the toilet through 90 degrees and back it onto this stud wall, conceal the cistern in the stud wall. Then have glass panel from above the stud wall up to the ceiling. ? (Would allow the toilet roll holder to be mounted on the wall then). Then you could push the basin down towards the bath more. (Even connect it to the bath with some cabinetry creating more storage and a longer counter top with a large mirror or mirror and shelves above for ornaments/pot plant ?)

Agree, storage is a big thing in our bathroom. Surprising how much stuff a family wants to store out of sight from spare loo rolls, spare soap, his razors, her razors, tons of goops, cotton buds, cleaning materials, scissors, weighing scales, air freshener....lots of spares because who wants to run out of bathroom stuff.

People may be nicely silhouetted against the window when getting in and out of the bath at night ? Where will you put the extractor and the heated mirror ?

Now the daylight is stronger and longer, does anyone know what the position is with pipes and plastics left outside and UV degradation ? I currently have the following uncovered: MDPE ends coiled outside where they come up out of the ground. Some spare end of coil MDPE barrier pipe lying about Multiple lengths of 110 underground drainage pipe lying outside. Some black and other plastic type sheeting Some black pipe fittings/silt trap Some black sheathed network cable exposed Some lengths of black covered armoured cable exposed (I long ago covered over all tail ends of plastic membrane like radon membrane etc that stick out, until they get cut off at the right length.)

Am due to have k-rend on the outside of the extension. I have wires coming out through the blockwork in the right position for some outside wall up/down lights. Also wire coming through for an outside power socket. Also have one cable currently dangling down the outside of the wall which was put in for another outside light and taken through the wall at ceiling height to then run down the outside wall down to chest height. What should I do with the cables to prepare for the rendering ? Should I cap the one down the wall with something (metal or plastic) ? Unfortunately I cant pull all other wires back through because of their route and internal insulation. Will rendering around these wires cause a problem for a good finish ?

POTS telephone cable ?

Outside tap(s) ? Outside socket(s) ? (I even decided to put a cable in for a socket half way down the garden - plug in a pizza oven, hedge cutter, electric lawnmower etc.) Outside lights that need to be wired through the wall ? Audio Visual stuff ? (Got the builders to put conduit in so I could run Optical HDMI, cat6, coax and speaker cable under the floor from the planned TV location to a space in the utility for router, distribution amplifier, etc) Any wired heating thermostats ? Cat 6 Network points anywhere ? Secondary waste/drain pipe in case the Mrs wants a new kitchen in 10 years with the sink on the other side ? Aerial or satellite cable ? wired video doorbell ? cables to anywhere for LED strip lighting ?

@goodbyegti You might even do something like this picture with a rooflight against your neighbour's outside wall. (Might need some party wall agreement, which you might need to replace the roof anyway.)

I think you might want to strongly consider getting that lintel put in as part of putting the new roof on. You could actually have the joists for the new roof cut into the web of the steel to support them at that end - you can see how that is done in my ceiling joist photos above. Then you may achieve the steel being hidden in the ceiling structure - might depend which way the joists run in the ceiling in the main house.

Looking at that photo of your garage roof, is that the corner of an upstairs window in the side of your neighbour's extension ? oh wait, I guess that is a window in your house which is on the right in the photo.

To drain properly around rooflights and things you need crickets - double tapered triangle pieces as explained here (They can be made of cut insulation board before the membrane/covering is put on)... https://www.premierguarantee.com/insite/ponding-on-flat-roofs/ Something our architect omitted to specify, and the builder and roofer just scratched their heads over, and it ended up too late to for me to source any in time. oh, and you might want to get some sound insulation in under the roof, which we are doing now because it can sound like being in a shed when it rains.

You can see the firring strips here. They can go parallel on top of joists, or transverse to joists depending on the slope(s) you want. The carpenter worked out the taper required and then got them precut (i.e. angled machine cuts down the length of timbers, so you get two firring strips out of one length of timber. (PS If you do add a rooflight, don't forget to work out how to get the back edge of it to drain properly - a bit of additional firring on top perhaps ? This was a glitch for us and we get some ponding behind the rooflight). Also make sure the roof is good enough to crawl/walk over when finished to facilitate cleaning. Also now I think of it there are also suppliers that can provide PIR boards cut to an angle so they fit together like a jigsaw to create the roof slope when laid onto a horizontal roof deck, here is one... https://ukflatroofing.com/tapered-insulation-boards?srsltid=AfmBOooDUJXxa7Ewu-xdJ5OhOos63D0eRS9mlahXWSUBBy1vSc5mBICy