Spinny
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Everything posted by Spinny
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I have u/f heating pipes embedded in a 120mm concrete slab laid over 150mm PIR. System is running controlled by Heatmiser with Neo air stat and Neohub. The concrete slab is currently unfinished and is to have a layer of levelling compound poured to level out the concrete. Then latex and LVT floor. I am thinking it may be a good idea to add one or two floor sensor temp probes. What is the best way to lay these given the concrete is already in place ? Q1 Thought I could put them in the levelling compound ? (This will be up to 20mm thick in places) Q2 Otherwise I would presumably have to cut a groove in the top of the concrete to lay them in ? Q3 Do I have to put them inside some small diameter sleeve or conduit and where might I find this ? Q4 How accurate are these things ? My thinking was a probe or two might be used to help stop the floor going over temp and lifting the LVT. Current using just a Neo air stat, but I have a manual infrared temperature gun and concrete temp getting up to around 26C in places.
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PS Can anyone tell me the inner bore of MLC pipe crimp connectors ? (or is it an industry secret ?🫣)
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Still seeking lead pipe replacement quotes. One suggested I should get in excess of 30l/m if it is done. Have checked the stop tap in the pavement and found that is lead too. So I seem to have lead pipe all the way past the pavement stopgap and on to the main itself. They updated the main about 15 years ago but seem to have left lead service pipes to the stop tap. How mad is that - they must have done half a job. Waiting for someone from the water company to come out and look now.
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Yes but the noise is from the roof, so that is why the tecsound would be stuck to the underside of the plywood deck. I have put some up in the utility now and it does make a significant difference. Need to try adding 50mm rockwool directly under that now and wait for more rain.
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Oh yeah sure, I could play white noise at just the right frequency to cancel the rain drop frequency. Or else Tina Turner with ‘I can’t stand the rain’ at 90db. 😜😂
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That's not what it's designed for, this stuff is to go on top of the joist, with a floating floor It does say… ‘This product, used upside down, can also provide the resilient layer required for customers to make up their own resilient battens.’ But I suppose scores of penetrating plasterboard screws may render it useless.
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With 150mm PIR in the south of England shouldn’t be a problem ? Was thinking to hold the rock wool up against or near the underside of the roof using some kind of support like chicken wire mesh ?
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Has anyone used joist isolation strip like this stuff between plasterboard and ceiling joist ? Worth it ? https://soundstop.co.uk/products/joist-isolation-strip?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkuSHpb7ShAMVKYBQBh0CDA3uEAQYEiABEgL59_D_BwE
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Thanks for all responses. It is a definite drumming or pattering noise. At present with no plasterboard up it can seem like standing inside a shed. Yes a lot of rain is only drizzle, but when you are building something you want to get it right for the decades to come. I don’t really get why interstitial condensation should be an issue and nor did my architect. It’s a warm roof with its own built in vapour barrier. The whole point is the temp underneath will essentially be room temp ? I am not going to get rid of the recessed downlights and speakers because I want that aesthetic. This does mean the plasterboard will have some 25 apertures which compromises its use as an acoustic barrier. I can put 100mm rock wool between joists where there are no downlights. Maybe some acoustic hoods but they seem expensive.
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Anyone know about Q2/3/4 ?
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I don’t have a back entry gully on mine though, just straight pipe into an access point about 2m away.
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OK thanks but have you ever had a blocked drain ? We have every few years as neighbours drain also runs into our manhole. Most recently the builder blocked things by dropping a piece of 40mm waste down it. If it backs up and leaks it would be very costly taking up a heated floor, units, worktop, sink etc.
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My warm roof with PVC membrane is quite noisy when it rains. Almost seems to leave me inside a drum as the noise comes through the 150mm PIR and plywood deck beneath. I am also having recessed downlights and speakers in the ceiling beneath. So my plan is to stick a layer of tecsound mass loaded vinyl to the underside of the ply between the joists. Then a layer of 50mm rock wool. This will leave me enough ceiling void for the recessed lights. Does this seem a reasonable approach (as I really don’t want to mess about with resilient bar/clip systems) ?
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Thanks. He has currently fitted the first of these. I am uncomfortable with this as it doesn’t seem like a fully permanent seal. We have had an occasional blocked drain and if this happened in the future things could back-up along the drain. If it isn’t a good seal, in the worst case we could end up with toilet waste leaking out into the subfloor void hidden from view & access. So I think the second seems better. Q1 But maybe the 110mm pipe should be extended up to just above floor level anyway (rather than hidden under the floor?) Ofher questions are: Q2 The smaller horizontal waste pipe is for boiler condensate. Can’t see anything to stop smells coming up that pipe ? Q3 A UVC tundish needs an outlet which might be routed into this drain pipe - how can I tell if the soil pipe is good enough for high temp (95C) water ? Q4 Is there a PB or PEX waste pipe fitting with a mechanical seal to comply with section 3.60 of the G3 regs ?
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Builder has run 110mm underground drainage pipe through footings into a new utility room to provide drainage for sinks and appliances. There is a 110mm 90 degree bend on the end of the pipe to bring the drain in and up to floor level. Is this ‘correct’ or should there be a 110mm water trap fitted to bring the drain in and up whilst stopping toilet/drain smells from coming up into the utility room ? Also a boiler condensate and a HW cylinder tun dish will discharge into this drain.
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So can someone comment on the effects of MLC pipe crimped connectors and the reduced pipe bore. As well as the reduced bore (what is it reduced to ?) someone has pointed out the Venturi effect whereby the downstream pressure is reduced by introducing a constriction e.g. see image. Seems to me using MLC pipe with crimped pinch points is a bad idea. Not much point connecting a new 25mm MDPE mains pipe with 20mm bore to a 25mm MLC pipe with perhaps only 17mm bore at every crimped connection ? Also would it be better to be using a manifold approach rather than just teeing off tap connections along a pipe ? Seems to be a lot more to effectively piping a UVC system than one might think.
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Just made some dynamic pressure measurements… Static Pressure on 15mm outside tap coming off nr the mains stop cock is 3.4Bar if I put the outside tap full on (20l/m) and take pressure at 15mm toilet cistern connected to the same 15mm pipe branch the pressure falls to only around 1 bar. Pressure at outside tap when running upstairs taps is… 1 cold tap on = 2.4Bar 2 cold taps on = 1.7Bar 2 cold & 2 hot taps on = 1 Bar Q1 So I guess the issue is fairly major dynamic pressure drop from current lead mains feed? Q2 If I get say a 32mm MDPE pipe put in will I get less pressure drop for a given dynamic flow ? Q3 Any way to estimate it ? Q4 Is the 22m distance from the mains a significant issue and would some other type of low friction pipe be better than MDPE ? Q5 Do water companies limit the size of the pipe connection you are allowed to have to the mains ? (Will they not connect 32mm, or effectively choke it down through a 25mm connector ?) Q6 Does type of stopcock make an appreciable difference ? (My current stop cock tends to start drip leaking if you try to open it too far.) Sorry, too many questions. Thank you for any and all help you can give. Been fighting endless issues since my builder started a one storey extension 1.5 YEARS ago!
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Thanks I tried the water company, but they will only do short runs and mine is 22m from pavement stop tap to house stop tap. So I am going to have to pay and contract someone myself.🙄
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Another pic showing stop tap & water softener pipework.
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Can anyone comment on the use of MLC pipe and tell me what bore they are restricted down to at the crimped connectors ? (The mains pipe needs sorting, but connecting a new one onto the 25mm MLC which is effectively perhaps only 17mm internal diameter seems a bad idea. As is 16mm MLC with an effective bore of 10mm going to kitchen taps etc.)
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Thank you. I have just found the cylinder design & install instructions for the gledhill cylinder online. It seems the cylinder is supplied with a tun dish - so wonder where it is ? I see the discharge pipework has to be metal (presumably copper?) so the plastic waste pipe presumably isn’t going to be good enough. Very worried now on a number of fronts. It may be that some u/floor heating will have to be taken up for access. why aren’t some gas safe people apparently either competent or trustworthy ? Sigh.
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Wow, thank you. Plumber is gas safe registered - not sure if you can check G3? presumably a Ton Dish something like red lines on this photo then ? Presume it can be made to discharge into same drainage outlet as boiler condensate ? The wiring is temporary, sparky still to tidy up/complete moving onto new circuit. Got two Heatmiser wiring hubs, manifolds & Pumps down there. One heating a concrete slab, t’other omnie u/floor heating. lead to copper join photo attached. This join has not been changed so is at least 30 years old. I am currently trying to get quotes to mole in a new 32mm MDPE mains pipe. (If you can suggest any contractors for moling in the Bristol area I would be grateful.) is there a way I can check the dynamic pressure on the outside tap ?
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PS I have recently been made aware that MLC pipe is not necessarily what it might seem. That is: 16mm MLC is only 12mm internal bore, but worse every crimped join restricts bore further (suppliers brochures don’t seem to say ?!?) but 10mm ? 9mm ? Likewise even 25mm MLC is 20mm internal bore but restricted to what at crimped joins 18mm ? 17mm ?
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PS I have recently been made aware that MLC pipe is not necessarily what it might seem. That is: 16mm MLC is only 12mm internal bore, but worse every crimped join restricts bore further (suppliers brochures don’t seem to say ?!?) but 10mm ? 9mm ? Likewise even 25mm MLC is 20mm internal bore but restricted to what at crimped joins 18mm ? 17mm ?
