Spinny

Yes the 1.4bar is the pressure on the utility cold tap when the shower is on (set to a warm mix of hot & cold) and outputting 11.6 l/m. And the utility cold tap is fed from the balanced cold on the downstream side of the PRV. With no flow on any outlet, the static pressure at that utility cold tap is around 40-42PSI or 2.75Bar ish. When the shower outlet is turned on that pressure falls to just 1.4bar.

Just done another measurement to measure the static and dynamic pressure for the 15mm copper pipe outside tap outlet which is upstream of 'the glorious system'. Static pressure from the mains is 50PSI (3.45 Bar), and the dynamic pressure whilst discharging at 37 l/m is 38PSI (2.6 Bar). Therefore 'the glorious system' has a raw input capable of delivering 37 l/m at 2.6Bar. Yet when the output from 'the glorious system' is just 11.6 l/m from the shower outlet pipe, the pressure in 'the glorious system' falls to just 1.4bar. So to me that seems like conclusive proof that there is a problem in 'the glorious system'. Any suggestions on how to find the fault ? Change the PRV ? Take the water softener bypass out of the flow line ? Replace the MLC pipe feed to the PRV/Cylinder ? (Move the outside tap up the wall and shower naked outside under 37 l/m of cold water ?)

I appreciate these are different comments from different people, but why is this apparently some kind of trial and error black art ? First I need a new main (£2000), now I need a giant pressurised replacement for the old water tank in the loft (££££) ? This should be about the physics of fluid dynamics, not ask a different plumber get a different answer. (not trying to offend or insult anyone, I appreciate all comments/responses - just wanting to get to the root of the matter,) At present 'the glorious system' appears to be turning a 37l/m torrent from the mains supply, into a pathetic 11.6l/m (shower head off) (and just 7.3l/m with showerhead on). It seems to me 'the glorious system' £££££££££ is just a giant flow inhibitor ? It was 'advertised as' capable of 2 simultaneous showers, while the mrs is running the kitchen tap, and the washing machine is running. The wonderful new system that avoids people shouting around the house to 'turn that outlet off'. It still seems something is amiss here to me !?

So one year on and I now today have a new 32mm MDPE barrier pipe (23m) connected into the water main replacing the old 1930s lead pipe. Via outside tap/u-stairs toilet cistern which share 15mm pipework directly off the mains, I have gone from 50PSI static and 22.3 l/m before, to 52PSI static(3.6bar) and 37 l/m. Via utility tap fed by the UVC with a 3 bar PRV, I have gone from 40PSI static (which is actually only 2.75 bar !) and 17 l/m before, to 40PSI static and 19l/m afterwards. However my shower has gone from 11.6 l/m (shower head removed) to 11.6 l/m (shower head removed) - no change. This is still very significantly less than from the old gravity system with monsoon pump (3 bar static & 2.5bar @ 9l/m) even though through the same mixer valve. CONCLUSION: the plumbers pipework to the shower is crap and will need to be replaced ? I am very puzzled by the following result though... I can put a static pressure guage onto the utility tap. With no outlets open it reads 40PSI (2.75bar) which is roughly similar to the system pressure from the PRV of 3 bar. If I then run the shower (head off) at 11.6 l/m the pressure at the utility tap falls to just 20PSI (1.4bar). It I then also open en ensuite tap, the pressure at the utility tap falls again to just 15 PSI or about 1 bar. So why is this system fed from a main at 3.5bar and supposed to run at 3bar, losing half its pressure when you draw off just 11.6l/m ? Especially as the main is capable of delivering 37l/m !? Something would seem to be choking this pressurised system off... The restricted bore on the MLC pipe connectors which feed the system ? The water softener, not currently fitted but connection is there in bypass mode ? The PRV or some other location having a blockage/restriction ? A pipework problem ? A faulty cylinder ?

Maybe you could use back box repair lugs (do a search on amazon) rather than a box with integral lugs ? Or maybe try a plasterboard back box with judicious carving of the edges using a stanley knife ? Or try a screwless switch plate where the back plate can be screwed in top and bottom using repair lugs, rather than having to be screwed in left & right ? Or remove the back box, chisel out the hole, reseat the back box 5mm to the side, make good with filler and touch up the wall paint ?

That corner pic shows by far the worst point, the timber lines are fine elsewhere. Pics were also some time ago before I made my own temporary covering with proplex. If it is still like that could be planed down I guess. I guess there is a question about what thickness of aluminium should be used. Something thin is easily going to get distorted, but something thick should presumably stay straight and true. I found an old sample piece which is 2mm thick (a short bent piece albeit only a foot long) seems very rigid. The front overhang above the bifolds is about 5m long - is anyone likely to do pieces that long ? Don't want visible screws. Could it not be done in 4 pieces as per my sketch attached with hidden fixings at the 'X's - basically interlocking at the drip edges ?

Hi Russell, Yes I definitely want to use aluminium as per the architects drawing. We have invested in alu doors and windows, cedral cladding, rooflights etc, we need to finish the job to the same high quality. It has been too painful a process to do otherwise.

Just found this photo. So the rubber seals are part of the chamber. uh-oh. There is no way I want to have to change the chamber given it is connected elsewhere. Changing the chamber would mean taking a whole load of other stuff up too. How likely is it to damage the seal when removing the pipe ?

Thanks. The pipes are not set in concrete, just shingle and hardcore over. Am I right to think the rubber seals are attached to the pipe and NOT to the chamber inlets ? (There is no way I want to risk replacing the chamber itself as it connects backward to the main kitchen drain and forwards to the main drain.)

The drawings show the edges and internal gutter detail of a warm roof. The green colour is PIR insulation which is covered with a single ply PVC membrane. The membrane runs out to the edge timber to provide the waterproof base of the edge gutters. A wide gutter in the overhang above the bifolds, and narrower at the sides of the building. The X's are timbers shown edge on. I have used a red line to indicate the edge areas I am talking about. Labels 10 and 15 are the powder coated aluminium fascia/capping pieces on the overhang which run around the sides too. I am wondering now whether the alu trim is supposed to lock together at the drip edge ?

Thanks to my builder problems I have now been through 2 winters without a finished roofline on the extension. Have had to make do with proplex which I have had to attach as a temporary cover. The specification is for powder coated aluminium capping and fascia pieces as shown on the drawings attached. However I am at a bit of a loss on how to interpret these drawings - where does one piece of aluminium profile stop and the next piece start ? - because clearly you can't fabricate or install in one piece for the overhang or one side wall. (One side is straight forward as it is just a capping piece). Can anyone make sense of the drawing in terms of how many pieces are envisaged and how they fit together ? Also grateful if anyone can suggest or recommend suppliers that ideally can come to site to measure up, fabricate, and then install for me with secret fixings (rather than peppered with screwheads). I am Bristol area. PS Also that piece above the bifolds at the bottom of the render board - are there edge pieces or render beads available for that ?

I'm not getting another one. I have just identified what it is that is there already.

Another thought - should I be concerned with leaves and debris washed down from the roof blocking this up ? (the water in it looks rather black and putrid).

Thanks Eric, I think I have found it - looks to be an OsmaDrain bottle gully as shown below. I do need something with a water trap to stop smells because this particular rainwater pipe connects into the foul water drain to the sewer. It also rotates which is helpful. I am not sure what the purpose of the fixed internal baffle is ? It is roddable which is also useful but not really essential here as it could be rodded from the nearby chamber. All in all I guess I might as well reuse it, it is just going to be a case of sorting out how to pipe it into the fixed chamber. Am I right in thinking this is all going to be push fit ? Am I supposed to have some sort of support under the bottom of the gully ?

Thanks for replies. I have put some water down and it is indeed feeding into the y branch. Looking at the current position, I am thinking the builders must have put it where it is for a reason - usually convenience and speed for them. It looks as though there is a pipe connected to the inspection chamber outlet with presumably a 90deg bend and then the gully on the end of that. So that is presumably why they deviated from the plan and it has ended up where it is. So any idea what parts would allow it to be connected in the correct position - can the gully be twisted relative to the grill on the top ? I attach more photos. Any idea what part/manufacturer the gully is, it seems to have something with a cap on it inside - maybe a rodding point ?

Hi, my departed builders installed a rainwater drain somewhat in the wrong place. It was supposed to be directly underneath the drain pipe position but has been put under the window instead. Is this going to be feasible to fix and how ? See photo's...

I have had 2 plasterers in and they said different things. One said take all the plaster off the top of the wall, the pink skim coat and the old undercoat. The other said he could wet plaster the lower part and then skim the lot. There must be a million houses built like this across the land - has anyone had this issue and how did they resolve it ?

OP hasn't posted here for a month, but HDMI can be passed over ethernet... https://www.blackbox.co.uk/gb-gb/page/44064/Resources/Technical-Resources/Black-Box-Explains/AV/What-Is-HDMI-over-Ethernet-and-How-Does-it-Work The answer to moving stuff around is to plan multiple redundant service points. I once put coax to 4 different locations in the same room on this basis. Of course 20 years later I had still only used one of them. It's the thing I hate about underfloor heating - you can't just pull up the floors again. I've just put a whole load of conduit under a suspended floor with u/floor heating - hopefully I will never need to use it ...but... you never know. Everything is going to IP now though and wifi keeps getting faster.

Need to get the staircase wall replastered in our 1930's semi. The hollow old plaster came off the brick wall all too easily, but then discovered the second storey is not brick but something else - cinder block or something ? Although some patches are hollow behind the plaster when tapping it, in general it is very difficult to remove because the 'cinder block' and the grey first coat/undercoat of plaster seem to be so well bonded you cannot tell where one stops and the other starts - there is no clear cleave point and you can only chisel where you think the join should be. It is going to be difficult to strip this off but a plasterer said if it doesn't come off and bricks are wet plastered then the lot is skimmed it will crack at the junction line.? What needs to be done to make this ready for replastering ? Am I really going to have to spend hours with a hand chisel trying to get the grey plaster pff the grey cinder block even though there is no real junction between the two ?

If fixing timber into the web of the steel, how would this be fixed to the steel - long self tapping screws through the timber and into the vertical of the I beam ? (And cut the timber to fit around the existing bolts and screws ?) And how does 'thin coat render' match with standard 20mm render on the block work elsewhere - one render guy said the render on the blockwork would need to be 32mm thick to cater for the render board + 20mm render. (plan is to use k-rend) And while I am here, how should the pesky weep holes be dealt with ? And what are the best render beads to use - plastic or metal ? And the side wall is north facing - should anything be done to stop algae growing on it ? (Steel is tucked under an east facing overhang, so I wouldn't have thought rust was an issue ? Had a 35 year old steel in the house and it was ok apart from surface rust.

An interesting thread. On sealing around electrical boxes in the dot and dab plasterboard - I am not sure I see the benefit. I'd have thought the problem is having cold air getting into the gap behind the board because that is just bypassing any benefit from the insulation in the wall. The issue is airtightness and stopping the flow of cold air into that space. Sealing the electrical boxes might stop you feeling the cold draught but if the cold air is still there behind the board it isn't doing anything to improve the room thermals at all really to seal the boxes. And it could stop you feeling the difference when it is made airtight - i.e. the draft from the electrical boxes disappears. I had/have some awkward spaces to insulate - in the end it took a good carpenter to resolve and fit the insulation nice and tightly. I guess if they can make a nice tight dovetail joint, they can do similar accurate work with PIR. I have a warm roof thank goodness - seems much easier to insulate. I guess that is insulation under the concrete floor slab - adding heating pipes at that stage would have been good I think. An infrared temperature gun and/or thermal camera seems like an essential tool for building work these days.

Are you using a 24V UPS then ?