junglejim

Thanks. It’s timber cladding. Trying to find out whether a lead ‘dry verge’ is possible and how best to do this and also secure to the roof. Cheers

I’m going to be installing some outdoor lights onto my cladding (thermo ayous). I’m trying to preempt and ensure there are holes/grommets etc in the correct positions but presumably the area should also be battened or a timber plate (plywood) fitted behind the cladding to give the light something strong to attach to?

I’ve got a clay tiled roof with plastic click together dry verge similar to this: https://mybuildingsupplies.ie/shop/building-supplies/roofing-building-supplies/roof-ventilation/dry-verge-system/ I’m wondering if it’s possible to redo this with lead for a more rustic finish that suits the house better. Struggling to find much info online so probably barring up the wrong tree here?

Update: I’ve been playing around today: prototype… think I might go with lead as much easier to manipulate and seal corners. I think something like the attached photo will work…(this is on a door but windows will be the same) Trim equal all around gives a neater finish then angled wedge on top with lead drip above that. I’ll leave a 5mm gap between lead and the cladding to allow airflow and and insect mesh. Ideally lead will run under membrane but may tape instead… something else to decide. I’d welcome any thoughts and tips anyone else has.

Reading a lot about expansion gaps for cladding. We’re installing thermo ayous which has very small expansion figures so wondering if there’s any need for any gap at all? I’ve been allowing a few mil. each end 2mm ish between boards but quite fiddly lifting each board and where boards butt together along a long length it seems like a weak spot for water ingress. given that the boards are also fixed with 2 screws in each batten I’m struggling to see how the boards will expand… is anyone able to offer any technical insights into this? Thank you

Thanks everyone. I’m also looking at the schiedel Ignis and realise it says it needs 575mm hole cutting. Given that stud work is 600 centres that leaves about 540 in between I think which is too small for the Ignis … unless it can be cut slightly to fit?

Thanks for all the advice. I knew this would be a ‘marmite’ topic. I realise that a stove is not needed from a practical perspective… it’s more aesthetics and a non negotiable from my better half! Direct air through the slab isn’t something I’d considered… wish I had! I’m at the stage of trying to get wind and watertight so would ideally like to get the cladding complete asap so really weighing up the practicalities of retro fitting the flue and direct air after cladding. For the flue I’m thinking schiedel Ignis protect through the wall. I’ll install both before internal finishes but ideally need the cladding up before I can finalise locations.

I’m building a timber frame house and planning on putting a wood burner at a later date. I realise that I’ll need direct air and all of the pros/cons around that but wondering about timing the fitting of the flue and direct air ventilation. In the ideal world I’d do that now before I start cladding but reality is it’s going to be some time before we have decided on stove (and budget for it)… however I also don’t want to put holes in the fabric of the house which may not be positioned ideally for the stove… So I’m wondering how easy/difficult it is to retro fit flue and direct air ventilation after cladding is installed? appreciate any tips and insights anyone might have.

Thanks yes where I’ve started cladding I’ve extended vertical battens down to hold it in place just not sure whether to trim the excess and at what level?

Just adding a comment in the hope someone will be able to help with this? thanks

We’ll soon be preparing the concrete slab in our timber frame build for screed ie; insulating the floor then pouring screed. I’m wondering whether the hearth for fireplace is ok to be laid on this later or whether we need to build this directly off the slab or anything else that we should pre-empt? Thanks

We’re at this stage at the moment and in trying to work out the window head detail. In thinking similar to what you have but we have horizontal cladding so only vertical battens. I’m curious about the dpc and drip edge. How did you finish this with widow reveal? Is there a reason you haven’t taken the drip back to the membrane and taped? (Maybe you have and I can’t see it?) also curious how you finished under the cills with ventilation gap? Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks

@dpmiller this looks like what I’m looking for. Please can you advise where you bought this and how easy it was to install? Thank you

I’m wondering what the best way is to finish the membrane and dpc at the sole plate on my timber frame? External will be timber clad but in wondering how best to finish finish the membrane abs dpc… presumably it needs cutting back but wondering if it should be taped or sealed somehow? Thank you

Thanks. This is what I’m thinking… probably quite fiddly but should give me something to fix a timber reveal too and allow for a drip strip, ventilation and over sail the cladding. I wonder if I’d get away with lead drip or better off getting made with aluminium.

Bit of a minefield… on site today so any advice greatly appreciated. Thank you

Kind of similar to here:

Thanks. No pictures but will be on site later so will try and send something. The outside face of the widow is pretty much flush to the timber frame so the reveal trims will be attached to the cladding battens.

Looks good. I’m about to do This and struggling to work out how to fix the top timber reveal and the drip. My window is flush to the opening in the timber frame so the reveal will need to attach to the battens so can’t work out how to attach the drip and the reveal. Also interested whether you can share your drip design as looking to get something made up too. many thanks

@Mr Punter @Roundtuit @scottishjohn

Looking at this again as trying to work out how to make this work… My windows/doors are pretty much flush to the opening so the reveal will need to attach to the battens. I can’t work out how to put a head drip and reveal in at the top as they would interfere with each other… ideally would like timber reveal all the way around. Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks @Roundtuit@Gone West@Mr Punter

I’ve just started setting out my battens for cladding on my timber frame house and wondering about a couple of things. 1. Finish for breather membrane… should I cut it flush with the sole plate as architects drawing implies or overhang slightly… my instinct is to overhang and also lap over the render once done but I’m not sure what the proper way to finish is… does it need taping? obviously need clear drainage. 2. board overhang bottom of batten: the insect mesh (90degree strip) I’m using is slightly wider than the batten so seems to be neat to drop the bottom row of cladding so that the mesh can sit in groove at the back of the cladding board and make a sit tight all the way along. However it would mean that the bottom of the cladding is about 45mm below the sole plate. Is this ok or do I need to rethink? 3. The ground level and the house needs digging down Ava French drain installing. Aiming to sand/cement render the slab when this is done but will likely be after cladding… can anyone foresee any problems? Thanks for everyone’s help. (Happy Christmas and new year to all)

Thanks that’s interesting as hadn’t really considered the airflow above the openings… I was going to put a head drip, insect mesh and cladding but will obviously need to consider how much gap there is… ideally don’t want too much but will need enough for air to flow. Any further advice/pictures would be really helpful. Thank you

I’m about to start battening out for timber cladding and curious about the detail around windows/doors. I’ve seen lots of pictures like the one attached that show battens across the top of the opening but if there’s water behind the cladding that would seem to prevent drainage. Am I missing something here? Thank you

Update: I’ve spoken to the designer and engineer who have both confirmed that the glulam ridge beam is a physically restraining the gable (timber frame) so nothing to worry about…. Educational and stressful self building 😜 Thank you for all of the comments and advice.