Moira Niedzwiecka

@gravelld Yes, on the Leicestershire/Rutland border. Our new house is build on the side of an old ironstone quarry. Our existing cottage is one of a terrace of former quarry workers cottages built on the old quarry bed, hence the name Stonepit Terrace, built in 1870. We had to use ironstone on the new house because it is in the conservation area. We have kept it to a minimum because of cost.

@Plumbersmateuk I am at work today & not home until after 6pm. As it is raining, yet again, it may be a bit dark when I get home & no lights yet. Ditto tomorrow. There are some good pics in the domestic inspiration section on the ideal combi website showing internals. You can choose to have a different colour on the inside if you like. We chose to have RAL 7016 both internally & externally apart from the back door where we had white internally as it is a larger area of solid door.

I liked the slim profile of these. Handles are really nice too. Save the money where you can. Most things will cost more than budgeted for. Good luck.

Thanks @Plumbersmateuk I was just going to add my previous post. Saved me looking for it. @vivienz As above, just under £12k for the windows & doors & about £3k for the installation & cills, but of course this price included removing & re-fixing after the first b*lls up so would have been about £500 less. Cills have cost £380 because of minimum order.

When they burn & itch the last thing you want is more heat. The only relief is a cool floor. However, I do like the idea of being able to cool the floor in summer like Jeremy does. What would you recommend if we did go for under floor.

Chilblains

I used ideal combi & very happy with the doors & windows. Initial installation a disaster as did not use ideal combi's recommended installers. I had ideal combis installers, PAB fixings take all the windows & doors out & re install them properly. Fantastic job & would thoroughly recommend them. They have sorted all the cills & thresholds out for me & are coming back to fix them.

We have an oil stove at the moment that is a pot burner, so a bit like a Rayburn that heats radiators & hot water and is on for about 5 months of the year. The rest of the time we heat water by the immersion & cook with electricity & pay £40 pcm & are always in credit so immersion heater does not worry us.

Thanks for the confirmation Jeremy, glad to know I am on the right lines. It conforms much more to Peter's post that was so helpful.

Good news Dave. I cashed in my pension pot last year, I had to withdraw the lot. Miffed that I had to pay 40% tax on some of it as I still work full time, but needs must.

@JSHarris That's what I thought. I prefer this from BPC HRVMN130717Q_MOIRA_REV04-A3_GF FF.pdfHRVMN130717Q_MOIRA_REV04-A3_GF FF.pdf

The recent quote I had from CVC shows the vents very close together. NIEDZWIECKA_MOIRA_MVHR+INST-RE180-AE48-REVA.pdfNIEDZWIECKA_MOIRA_MVHR+INST-RE180-AE48-REVA.pdf

Hello & welcome, I am sure your input will be gratefully received on this forum. I would have been great to have someone to ask questions of when our foundations were being designed. I would say ours are certainly robust. +1

No gas.

I am at the point now of having to make a decision on heating & DHW. Chalet style 2 bed house with just 2 occupants. 147sq m, closed panel timber frame, walls & roof 0.12 floor 0.13 triple glazed. We have 4kw PV and will have an Xpelair Natural Air 180 MVHR. We have 6m of south facing glazing with solar coating & an overhang. Considering 2 electric heated towel rails in the bathroom & shower room upstairs. Possibly a couple of panel heaters & a Bio Ethanol stove downstairs. UVC for water with an I Boost from the PV & a back up immersion in the UVC. I have looked at Sunamp but am unsure if a good idea for me. In my existing house I have an Efel Harmony 2 Oil Stove with a back boiler. We put it in 19 years ago when renovating & it has been fantastic but we find now they are discontinued & it is difficult to get parts or find anyone to service it as it was a bit niche. Just concerned that Sunamp may be the same. I do not want UFH. Any suggestions gratefully received. APP01 Ground floor plan 200717 D A1.pdf APP01 First floor plan 200717 D A1.pdf

I am going for 200mm celotex with 60mm flo screed. Bought celotex seconds & saved about £700 compared to my local builders merchants where I have a trade account & get good discount. I was a bit dubious about using seconds but they are all good. The foil is a bit wrinkled on some of the sheets & some are a bit discoloured on the edges but all are fine to use.

Well Ian is talking about dwanging his joists on another thread. That sounds very rude to me.

Should I dwang my joists? I have no idea what it means but what you do in the privacy of your own home is your business

Thanks Liz, I have seen your shower room photos on the other thread. Lovely.

Has anyone used rectified porcelain wall tiles. I really like the sleek look of these with a very thin grout line. I have only seen them on a small area in a tile showroom. Will they be a lot more difficult to fit?

Thank you. Much appreciated. Having a bit more knowledge will help me ask the right questions of potential installers.

House near us has used timber treated with sioo. It has a washed out pink appearance.

Longest

@lizzie Just seen the pics of your shower room. Wow! Love it. I'll have to get down to Porcellanosa.

Thanks for the advice everyone. Really good tips. As one of the ducts is going to have to be about 2/3m from the MVHR should it be the intake or the exhaust?