marshian

^ This

When we bought our current house in 91 it had no coving in any room - before we moved in we had the whole house done. When we added the extension in 2009 we didn’t add coving but pretty soon did because the rooms even when finished didn’t look it. We like it - we liked it in the 90’s and we still like it now. However as stated it’s relatively easy to add but not as easy to remove all traces if you don’t like it so if it’s being built to sell I wouldn’t add it (and save the cost)

Exactly as I spec'd my new boiler to be set up - shame the Viessmann specialist ignored what I asked for and set it up as a fecking S plan Still next Friday he gets to do again - this time as I asked..........................

Thanks for the knowledge - appreciated I’ll add it to the cat sanctuary charity donation I make every year instead of sending Xmas cards to people I know. Always feels like a much nicer thing to do at Xmas

oh no problem @joe90 we all are busy with life I’m still a smidge concerned about the weight even with I-Joists (which are 1/3 of the weight of timber equivalents) but I’ve been up in the loft today and noticed part of the loft already boarded is actually double boarded - I obviously didn’t trust what was already there and boarded over the top!!!!!) I reckon some of the boards I won’t be able to use so I’ll not go right to the edges My delivery of ventilation gap things arrived today to stop the loft insulation going into the eaves and stopping air circulation - should also stop air washing thro the insulation too…. Like most moulded components I’ve seen better quality but for £1.96 each and I needed 32 it’ll stop me worrying about ventilation issues. only thing I will need to buy is the loft insulation rolls so currently investigating options and pricing for that. just need the weather to turn a little - currently it’s 30 deg in the loft (south facing roof with concrete tiles that do seem to absorb a lot of the sunlight and cook up the loft)

I’d say it was - odd choice but I guess it does the job ( does dry out and go brittle after a while)

Well I’ve sat and thought about it for a few days and the price of I-Joists seemed to only make it viable for the centre section (so I’d end up removing quite a lot of boards) then I came across an advert for some 2840 mm by 240mm I-joists thar were surplus to requirements so I’ve bought 25 of them for £237 which seemed like a bit of a bargain I can do pretty much most of the loft area that is already boarded and maybe a couple of crawl walkways to enable me to get into the two smaller loft areas for access to wiring/poe cabling for cctv cameras which is pretty much in every corner of the house (downside of being burgled is a tendency to go way over the top with security cameras)

It’s very sad I agree

Might be X plan with NO for CH and NC for HW (two different valve bodies makes me think that as if two valves look identical I’d say both are NC type but with two different looking valve bodies I’d put a quid on them being functionally different) NO - Normally Open NC - Normally Closed

My opinion is EPC’s are a rough guide but in general they aren’t really worth the paper they are written on (if they are issued in paper still) I live on a small estate roughly 66 houses all 3 & 4 bed - the ratings vary from E to C When I talked to an assessor about getting one done (prep work for a BUS grant if I went down the ASHP route rather than replace my gas boiler) I was specific about asking if improvements I have made would result in a better rating - it was I might scrape a C but without solar no chance of a B I’ve replaced my gas boiler

Okay better than my scribbles floor plan (upstairs) Main loft area runs right to left and has the dividing wall between bedrooms at one end and and stairwell under the other end Floor plan (downstairs) All walls upstairs are basically repeated down stairs (and go right down to the concrete slab under the suspended ground floor where I spent a long time insulating between the joists in the crawl space)

OK roof trusses Boarded Loft area I want to raise up is the centre section 6.9 m length by 2.1 m width with 13 trusses roughly 60 cm spacing (two at each end are closer) Walls underneath I’m working on because the house is a weird T shape and every time I draw it out it looks wrong and the walls don’t fit right

I get that heating the water to a higher temp on E7 maximises the energy used on cheaper rate but heating to a higher temp also maximises the losses so higher levels of waste I'd be looking at it differently How much of the water do you use daily ie is tank same size as previous and did you run out of water in the day The risk of legionaires is very small if you use all the water daily As far as legionaires goes I do a hot cycle once a week to coincide with "her bath night" Rest of the time I'd be heating the water to a temp that meant the tank lasted all day under normal circumstances I only heat HW (114 Litre vented tank to 48 - 52 deg max) and that lasts the two of us all day (showers morning and evening) Having temp logging on the top and bottom of the tank the accelerated heat loss is very obvious when I heat HW to higher temperature

Very kind/generous of you sir but it's no good for me.........

Just trying to help - I'm still on Windows 8.1 and that doesn't like newer hardware

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-e&q=Z971ac

We had friends stay a couple of weekends back (they have a mains pressurised system - we have gravity and a pump on the shower) they commented how good the shower was 😉 I did raise the cold water tank a year or so back because we were borderline negative head and needing a more expensive pump that can cope

We had a local sparrowhawk or kestral do us a small favour last year - swept in grabbed a young one straight off the patio and then flew out - I know that one wasn't ringed either. The other youngster flew into a patio door and that was its last attempt at flight - also saved me a pellet

You are allowed to shoot them in order to protect crops Obviously if they are ringed you might have a problem one round us is ringed but he clearly hasn't found his way home - he's also bloody smart for a pigeon........

Any update @richo106?

I guess depends on the speed you run it thro the PIR - I didn't investigate it any further than ouch £400 that's not gonna be a cheap bit of kit for a single usage If I was doing a complete house suspended floor and warm roof I might have considered it

I'm trying to keep it simple because I am!!!

It's not the nicest material to work with - I think If I invested in a hot knife/wire cutting system it might have been better but using a sharp fine saw to cut 56m2 of 75mm PIR sheeting into individual joist filling slabs wasn't much fun

I'm sure you are right but my brain can't grasp that. What my brain can deal with is that the skimpy roof trusses are well supported by the wall structure underneath so any load is spread across a wide area

Thank you but I've discounted that as an option - you really do need T&G boards to make that even half decent and I would like to reuse the existing board that aren't