FarmerN

We have 2 separate consumer units, only one supplied by battery. The heat pump ,towel rails and trearment plant are not supplied by the battery. This is to preserve power in battery for lighting, fridge, freezer and other essentials. If its cold we can light up the log burner. During the recent strom, because an outage seemed highly likely,we put the battery at a setting to ensure it was at 100 % at the start of the outage. The house was cooling but not serious after 12 hours, and we had only used 20% of a 13.5KWh battery. Boiled the kettle a few times, lights , tv and broadband on, and had one reheated meal. We could boil a kettle and bake potatoes on log burner. Outage lasted about 15 hours but was predicted as 48 hours.

Seems you have to 'Play the system'. It just seems wrong to me.

With Tomatoe Lifestyle, am I right in thinking, if you admit to haveing solar panels you lose the 5 p/unit night time rate? I'm a pensioner, if I admit to this I lose the 5p rate. I want the energy companies to be straight forward with me , so I really don't want to lie to them in order to get on the tariffs thats suits me best. To make it work for me I have to pretend to have an EV or not admit to PV.

Don’t know the answer to your question, but when we demolished Bats were a huge issue, causing big delays and cost. Depends what you are demolishing and where.

?? Certainly looks like 3 phase supply to transformer, 3 wires in and 3 fuses out. But I'm no electrician. Our DNO insists our transformer is 25 KVa, even though I can read 15 Kva stamped on it! Interesting as our cooker can draw 17 KW.

Came to the above for the DNO in the S.E. England, no Idea if it,s applicable in Scotland. I thought an 80 amp supply was regarded as standard thes days. Does your voltage drop below the required mimnimum when you have a high load on?I think the required min voltage is 216 Volts.

Many of the services for our new build are run under a council road, they were installed with full permission and a road closure. The contractor carried out a search for utilities and services and had a map showing what was present. I now want to make sure that my services running across the road and verge are registered and show up on search maps. Any one know who I register them with? We took 2 GSHP pipes, sewer and electric supply to treatment plant, water supply, BT duct and a spare duct for future unknown use, across a small No Through rural road. It is rumoured we may be about to get Fiber down our lane and I don’t want the pipes and ducts damaged when this goes in, hence the desire to register them . But how and with whom?

No idea! There is just A "Temperature Profile" setting , WARM , NORMAL, COOL We leave it on WARM most of the time, set it lower in very warm weather, but had no problem with over heating this summer. Increasing flow rate from 34 l/sec to 65l/sec increased energy use from 17W to 51 W.

My Q350 now shows Extract Air 20 degC Exhaust Air 11 deg C Ouside Air 6.5 deg C Supply Air 18 deg C Running at 65l/sec (setting 2) at the WARM supply setting in a 215 sqm Bungalow There is a Temperature Profile setting COOL , NORMAL, WARM. Reducing flow to 34l/sec (setting 1 ) will probably increase Supply Temp by 0.5 Deg. Currently useing 17W at 34 l/sec May put an edit on when it has run for a bit at 1. I'm always surprised that ruducing flow rate does not have a bigger impact on supply temperature

When we demolished our bungalow before the new build , we moved the meter into a temporary fiberglass cabinet on the perimeter of the site ,with a small distribution board and four external plugs in it. The builder also ran a cable from this to his cabin. Sp Networks ( The Grid) did a survey and provided ducting to bring power from the pole underground to the cabinet. We dug it in except last meter (? ) to the pole , they then moved meter and supply to cabinet. When the build was watertight supply was the moved into the plant room via underground ducts, we had put in, back to near cabinet . I was surprised SPNetworks then just made an underground connection there , rather than thread a new cable all the way back to the pole. We had the advantage that the pole was on our land. We were charge by SPNetworks for surveys and the work they did, but it was not excessive. As a result we had a power supply throughout the build.

Still shows Midnight untill 6 IF you have an EV,but only 5 Hours at bottom rate without EV, in my quote. Really anoys me better rate if I say I have an EV. I have a charger but no EV , an EV charges here about once a month. Just don't want to basically lie, to get on best tariff.

We have a Zehnder with manual boost, it may be imagination but I'm convinced I feel chilly while drying,due to increased air flow if I boost as I go into shower, Now boost when I am dry, as I say maybe all in the mind, I have no hard evidence.

Mines a NIBE GSHP . Have water heating on all day set at 48 degrees C . If I get up early, I boost water heating to 53 C while we are on cheap rate. Theres a 2 hr “ more hot water” button. Not looked at Scheduling yet. What I would like to do is Schedule night water heating at a higher temperature that day temp. Currently running at COP of 6+ while ground is still warm so heat on Economy 7 is costing very little.

Just suppose I did not have an EV , is the tarrif still avaliable? I want to do similar to what you describe above , run the house entirely on very cheap rate. Might get caught in very cold weather mid winter when there is little PV production and high heat demand, but currently can run easily on Econ 7. The EV just might move on in the future.

We did 115mm PIR in block/ brick external wall. The block wall was perfect with cavity side beatifully pointed but still impossible to get a really tight fit between PIR and blocks. Even very small air gaps alows for a chimney effect, leading to thermal bypass and a massive reduction from the paper u value. Come January I'll find out what it really does to our heating bill. We were supposed to have a 10mm cavity between PIR and brick but this is also near impossible and gets too much mortar in while the bricks are being laid. The builder did use the correct tape to tape all pir joints, think the tape alone came to almost £1000 !

Is hireing a good one an option? We have finished our build so be hard to fix a problem, but would still be interestin to see where we went wrong.

Check that only foul drainage is getting into system, not clean water from roof and paving as well, otherwise as above. ,

My Land Registry has the following entries A. Property Register " Land On The West Side Of xxxxxxx Lane, XXXXXXXX. B Proprietorship Register Tiltle absolute PROPIETOR my name and Home address and email address. Hope that helps. Which reminds me now we have built and moved in we probably need to change the Land Registry entries to our new address.

So perhaps the sewage discharges to rivers, during wet weather, are not entirely the water companies fault.

Try British Geological Survey https://www.bgs.ac.uk/information-hub/borehole-records/ What is a borehole record? Boreholes range from one to several thousand metres deep. Borehole records are produced from a geologist’s or surveyor’s observations of the rock core extracted from the ground and typically include locality and lithological descriptions with depth and thickness. Geophysical logs may also be noted from on-site measurements. Abbreviations used in borehole/water well records What is a borehole? 400 KB pdf National well archive Searching BGS borehole records also gives you access to the the National Well Record Collection. It contains more than 130 000 classified records of wells, boreholes and springs within England and Wales; a unique database of hydrogeological information.

Yes Yes, a pretty good air tight membrane laid on the blocks, lapped up wall taped to a wide draping DPM, one or two doorways left a bit to be desired on a perfect seal, but no sign of air leakage at airtightness testing. Also a second membrane above the insulation beneath the dry screed used. This however was well punctured by the staples used to hold the UFH pipes in place.

I bought from these guys. https://www.dlf.co.uk/amenity Which mix depends on use lawn is going to get. Can sow up to middle of October , but the sooner it's sown the better the cover over the winter months. If sown very late, it will be better if you keep off it till spring.

I suppose I was just not committed enough to the Passive house. Also wanted to use local people and was just getting no support from two different SE or architect. The theoretical u values of the floor are still good, but I have no faith in the whole beam and block construction, cold air beneath the floor instead of solid earth . Yes also worried about thermal bridging It’s all built now so got to live with it. A thermal imaging camera in winter will be interesting. We have GSHP, MVHR , PV and battery Yet to live through a winter, so February will be interesting.

We had a meter of clay over wet sand with trees close by. Was more or less forced into piles down 4.5 M by structural engeneer , who was worried about clay shrinkage in summer due to tress. Ended up with Beam and block foundations with 180 mm insulation under 90mm screed. Perinsula under perimiter walls at insulation level. My dream when we started out was a passive raft, possibly on Foam glass aggregate ( Geocell ) as the site needed building up a bit.

We had exactly the same situation, demolished a damp bungalow, in a hole, the front and back lawns always flooded. We raised the whole foot print of the build by 600mm, and now have a steady fall from the rear of the house to the road. The build was beam and block ,which made raising the actual house very easy as there is a void with no fill under the floors. The patio and drive way were raised with reclaimed crushed stone , leaving only the garden to fill with soil. We cleared 200mm of top soil off the whole site before the build started, fortunatly we had space to stack this and keep it clean. Then filled the garden area up with subsoil from the fondations with a bit of imported subsoil ,capped off with the saved topsoil. The planners had specified the ground level to eaves height, but fortunatly not the datum ground level.