FarmerN

We fitted two consumer boards, only one is supported by the battery during a Power Cut. The heat pump , treatment plant towel rails etc are all on the unsupported on. Ensures the battery is not drained too quickly ,leaving power for Fridge /Freezer, lighting, hub and other essentials. The cooker and all sockets have battery back up so still needs a bit of care during power cuts.

We have a Clearview stove, UK made , it's a traditional design, with direct air supply through the slab. Love it, It's massively more efficient than the stove we had in the previous house. It can overheat the room, but not a major issue, so tend to leave the room door open when it’s lit. Our house is all electric ,and it was nice to have the stove during the recent storm when the power was predicted to be off for 2 days ( it wasn’t). Being a traditional flat top design meant we could boil a kettle on it and heat a pan. I’m told you can bake potatoes in the ash can beneath the fire, but haven’t tried that yet. The ulimate backup.

How important is the Walk in shower ? You say a good sized bath so to state the obvious, a shower over the bath is the easy solution . That’s what we did and it works well. Can you put a walk in shower in another room altogether, even down stairs?

Like our White Stone resin tray. Level access. Use a long handled scrubbing brush for a once a month clean up, soon scrubs up like new.

Feel my display must be misleading , showing a COP of 6 for December so far, Too good to be true ?? My GSHP is a NIBE S1155 12 KW , with 600M ground loop, heating a 215sqM new build+ DHW December 179 kWh in 1073 kWh out. Brine in at 8.8 Deg C , main living space 21Deg C , bedrooms 19 Deg C DHW 48 Deg C

If you have a plant room or simmilar put at least one spare duct in to future proof for things you have forgotten or not even heard of yet.

Screen clearly says- " Notify Contractor. "

If it's a new build,don't forget your CIL form that has to be completed within 6months of completion certificate. I had forgotten all about ours untill an earlier thread on here, about CIL forms, a week or so ago

Love our 5m high vaulted kitchen/dinning/living room, 6m x 7m But Stone floor + quartz work surfaces mean it is a noisy, echoey room. No curtains or blinds in yet, they are being fitted next week, it will be interesting to see how they soften the sound. A few more pictures might help as well, and may be a couple more rugs. The electric Velux windows work well, complete with electric blind but manual fly screen. Flys can be an issue next to a livestock farm. If we were doing it again I think the only change would be to a wood work surface on the island, keep the quartz over units and by sink and cooker. Just putting things down on the quartz is noisy

We have 2 separate consumer units, only one supplied by battery. The heat pump ,towel rails and trearment plant are not supplied by the battery. This is to preserve power in battery for lighting, fridge, freezer and other essentials. If its cold we can light up the log burner. During the recent strom, because an outage seemed highly likely,we put the battery at a setting to ensure it was at 100 % at the start of the outage. The house was cooling but not serious after 12 hours, and we had only used 20% of a 13.5KWh battery. Boiled the kettle a few times, lights , tv and broadband on, and had one reheated meal. We could boil a kettle and bake potatoes on log burner. Outage lasted about 15 hours but was predicted as 48 hours.

Seems you have to 'Play the system'. It just seems wrong to me.

With Tomatoe Lifestyle, am I right in thinking, if you admit to haveing solar panels you lose the 5 p/unit night time rate? I'm a pensioner, if I admit to this I lose the 5p rate. I want the energy companies to be straight forward with me , so I really don't want to lie to them in order to get on the tariffs thats suits me best. To make it work for me I have to pretend to have an EV or not admit to PV.

Don’t know the answer to your question, but when we demolished Bats were a huge issue, causing big delays and cost. Depends what you are demolishing and where.

?? Certainly looks like 3 phase supply to transformer, 3 wires in and 3 fuses out. But I'm no electrician. Our DNO insists our transformer is 25 KVa, even though I can read 15 Kva stamped on it! Interesting as our cooker can draw 17 KW.

Came to the above for the DNO in the S.E. England, no Idea if it,s applicable in Scotland. I thought an 80 amp supply was regarded as standard thes days. Does your voltage drop below the required mimnimum when you have a high load on?I think the required min voltage is 216 Volts.

Many of the services for our new build are run under a council road, they were installed with full permission and a road closure. The contractor carried out a search for utilities and services and had a map showing what was present. I now want to make sure that my services running across the road and verge are registered and show up on search maps. Any one know who I register them with? We took 2 GSHP pipes, sewer and electric supply to treatment plant, water supply, BT duct and a spare duct for future unknown use, across a small No Through rural road. It is rumoured we may be about to get Fiber down our lane and I don’t want the pipes and ducts damaged when this goes in, hence the desire to register them . But how and with whom?

No idea! There is just A "Temperature Profile" setting , WARM , NORMAL, COOL We leave it on WARM most of the time, set it lower in very warm weather, but had no problem with over heating this summer. Increasing flow rate from 34 l/sec to 65l/sec increased energy use from 17W to 51 W.

My Q350 now shows Extract Air 20 degC Exhaust Air 11 deg C Ouside Air 6.5 deg C Supply Air 18 deg C Running at 65l/sec (setting 2) at the WARM supply setting in a 215 sqm Bungalow There is a Temperature Profile setting COOL , NORMAL, WARM. Reducing flow to 34l/sec (setting 1 ) will probably increase Supply Temp by 0.5 Deg. Currently useing 17W at 34 l/sec May put an edit on when it has run for a bit at 1. I'm always surprised that ruducing flow rate does not have a bigger impact on supply temperature

When we demolished our bungalow before the new build , we moved the meter into a temporary fiberglass cabinet on the perimeter of the site ,with a small distribution board and four external plugs in it. The builder also ran a cable from this to his cabin. Sp Networks ( The Grid) did a survey and provided ducting to bring power from the pole underground to the cabinet. We dug it in except last meter (? ) to the pole , they then moved meter and supply to cabinet. When the build was watertight supply was the moved into the plant room via underground ducts, we had put in, back to near cabinet . I was surprised SPNetworks then just made an underground connection there , rather than thread a new cable all the way back to the pole. We had the advantage that the pole was on our land. We were charge by SPNetworks for surveys and the work they did, but it was not excessive. As a result we had a power supply throughout the build.

Still shows Midnight untill 6 IF you have an EV,but only 5 Hours at bottom rate without EV, in my quote. Really anoys me better rate if I say I have an EV. I have a charger but no EV , an EV charges here about once a month. Just don't want to basically lie, to get on best tariff.

We have a Zehnder with manual boost, it may be imagination but I'm convinced I feel chilly while drying,due to increased air flow if I boost as I go into shower, Now boost when I am dry, as I say maybe all in the mind, I have no hard evidence.

Mines a NIBE GSHP . Have water heating on all day set at 48 degrees C . If I get up early, I boost water heating to 53 C while we are on cheap rate. Theres a 2 hr “ more hot water” button. Not looked at Scheduling yet. What I would like to do is Schedule night water heating at a higher temperature that day temp. Currently running at COP of 6+ while ground is still warm so heat on Economy 7 is costing very little.

Just suppose I did not have an EV , is the tarrif still avaliable? I want to do similar to what you describe above , run the house entirely on very cheap rate. Might get caught in very cold weather mid winter when there is little PV production and high heat demand, but currently can run easily on Econ 7. The EV just might move on in the future.

We did 115mm PIR in block/ brick external wall. The block wall was perfect with cavity side beatifully pointed but still impossible to get a really tight fit between PIR and blocks. Even very small air gaps alows for a chimney effect, leading to thermal bypass and a massive reduction from the paper u value. Come January I'll find out what it really does to our heating bill. We were supposed to have a 10mm cavity between PIR and brick but this is also near impossible and gets too much mortar in while the bricks are being laid. The builder did use the correct tape to tape all pir joints, think the tape alone came to almost £1000 !

Is hireing a good one an option? We have finished our build so be hard to fix a problem, but would still be interestin to see where we went wrong.