Mike

https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/42270-unbelievable-brickwork-will-this-pass-building-control/#comment-596598 Maybe I was using invisible ink.

The downside is noise transmission through the doors so, if you go this way, install acoustic-rated doors & frames. Personally, I'd avoid them.

Yes, height is certainly important on my current (apartment) renovation, as there is nowhere to hide the unit except a wardrobe. The SunAmp, with its side pipe connections, is perfect for that as there's still space above to hang clothes. Before deciding on SunAmp (not that it's purchased yet) I spent a long time looking for compact alternatives, and also came across some modular cylinders: the Teccontrol Twido, Viessman CEI (perhaps a rebranded Twido, but now seemingly discontinued) and the Ariston Velis Evo; if you've found another, I'd be interested. I've also taken a look at various flat single-tank units. The problem is that none of them are as low as the SunAamp, and all (except the Twido) require extra height for pipe connections and/or service space at the bottom - so the installed height is greater and vital wardrobe hanging space would be reduced or eliminated.

With one reservation (on VCLs) I agree with @sgt_woulds advice, and in particular the recommendation to get the proposal modelled in WUFI - or at least to take manufacturer's advice - since there can indeed be some site-specific peculiarities. For example, from my own experimentation with WUFI, when MVHR is present (it keeps internal humidity down), and when an element absorbs little rain + has a sunny orientation, then the rule-of-thumb on choosing a conservative insulation thickness doesn't necessarily apply; that is, more insulation might reduce condensation risk within the structure, as well as retaining more heat. However, if the element does absorb some rain, then the presence of even an 'smart' vapour control layer may cause a catastrophic build-up of moisture within the structure, as WUFI predicted for the North wall on my current project. In contrast, if the VCL was omitted, then there was no risk. A good illustration of why VCLs aren't a magic wand.

I have just such a system: one 20L electric tea urn + a rechargeable camping shower - total cost around £100, no plumbing required :)

The price of gas is driven by international demand, which is high due to the removal of piped Russian gas from the market. The UK is much more reliant of gas than many other European countries for electricity generation, and is also more exposed to short-term gas price fluctuations as it has very little gas storage capacity. Consequently UK electricity is significantly more expensive.

I've not taken an interest, so don't know how radical the proposals are, but the Government has been consulting on energy market reforms: https://www.gov.uk/government/collections/review-of-electricity-market-arrangements-rema

In 2006 I was involved in a couple of very interesting cross-industry events on the Blair Government's proposals for Zero Carbon Housing; the Pre-Budget Report that year announced their ‘ambition’ that all new homes should be zero carbon within a decade. The announcement was a big surprise, but it gathered quite a lot of momentum and seemed possible that it might actually get adopted as policy. Difficult to believe that was almost 20 years ago and that so little progress had been made.

That would be a rather extreme measure. To avoid condensation: Minimise the generation of moisture within the house (when cooking or showering / bathing) Extract excess moisture at the point at source (kitchen & bathroom extract fans, preferably humidity-controlled, or more sophisticated technology) Provide background ventilation to allow other moisture to escape (trickle vents plus PIV in your case, or more sophisticated technology) Keep surfaces warm (insulation and/or adequate heating) And, if you still have a problem, I second @Mr Punter's suggestion of a dehumidifier.

Or Councils could be funded to recreate the Direct Labour Organisations that they closed in the 1990s, and build them themselves. Maybe they could call the homes something like, err, Council Houses?

Provided the wall is sound externally that sounds OK, although I'd swap to a lime-based plaster (at least behind the insulation) as the alkalinity provides additional protection against mould. A brick wall that's been plastered or parged will provide all the airtightness necessary, provided you link it to all adjoining components using proprietary products. If your wall is suitably resistant to rain, if you use vapour permeable paint and if you have MVHR, then there's a very good change that you don't need a vapour control membrane on the inside of the insulation, though a WUFI would still be advisable. BTW, in some circumstances a VCL can elevate the risk of moisture damage, rather than reducing it. A service void is a great idea at ceiling level though, as here you are likely to be replying on an airtightness membrane which mustn't be damaged. Here's another recent thread discussing some alternatives (including, later on, the method I most recently used):

And for any wall units, fix a temporary batten along the wall at the required height. You can then rest the back on the units on it while you fix them and get them all level too.

A 2-wheeler like this would be fine: https://www.evosupplies.co.uk/shop-buy-furniture-skates-moving-dollies/construction-trolley/ But, as @nod says, they're usually placed mechanically.

No, it's not that common, but possible If the product says it's suitable for the purpose.

I seem to recall that WEEE doesn't cover transporting the item, unless you're having a similar product delivered?

If you have radon you'll need a fully sealed radon barrier over the top of the beam & block floor and across the walls (before you build them up), then a screed to protect it. You'll need to adequately ventilate the void below. BTW, if you're installing aircon, then it would be wise to make sure that the building (above the radon barrier) is airtight, to keep the warm air out & the cool air in.

The top one is no doubt designed for greater loads / longer spans. Apart from that, no practical difference. A screed is normally required to even up the levels - the beams curve upward a little in the centre.

8mm isn't that much - if you apply the grout with a screed rail over the top it should level it up - I'd be surprised of the beam manufacturer would have a problem with that.

I've only used hemp batts against brick and stone walls, but provided the concrete is dry and resistant to rain penetration from outside and the thickness isn't great (rule-of thumb - no more than ½ of the EWI thickness), then I wouldn't expect a problem. However if you can install enough EWI, that would normally be the preferred option, rather than insulating both sides. The wall is then more closely coupled to the inside temperature, the possible build-up of humidity in the IWI isn't a concern, and it's easy to hang things on the wall. Consider also how you'll link the wall insulation to the ceiling / roof insulation. And how you'll tackle airtightness.

Thanks for returning and providing the feedback - which is very disappointing. I'll cross my fingers extra hard as I've someone lined someone up (for a lot less than €6,000 labour) to install one later this year in my French apartment...

Yes, and it's only low-grade heat that's pumped to the flats so the heat loss of the common pipework is very low. There would be no central heat pump for the building as a whole. They do, and they recommend they over sizing the tank by 30% to account for the lower temperature (the maximum temperature produced is around 65°C).

Sure - it's one small-scale example project; It's the technology that I was highlighting. Heat the Streets is a programme and interesting because it was open to any and all homes irrespective of ownership in the streets they were working on. But they've done over 300 projects across the country for single owners (Housing Associations, Councils, etc.), many using the same networked heat pump technology. Can't comment on the smell in Portreath though!

I hope you have adequate air vents through the external walls to allow a cross-flow of air to and from the outside behind your studs? If not, you'll make the wall wetter and risk condensation on the back of the studwork, causing bigger problems in the future. Don't use bubble wrap - you risk trapping moisture behind it. If you need anything then it would be a moisture-permiable VCL, but may be better with nothing - you'd need a WUFI analysis to help make that decision. BTW If this is the same wall mentioned in your previous thread, this is unlikely to be the best solution.

Yes, option A. However will it fit through the loft hatch for installation & future replacement?

Wouldn't it be cheaper to import fill (hardcore or insulation sheets) rather than beams? I'm not clear which dimension are which, but you'll need a design from the beam manufacturer, so ask them. But placing beams closer isn't an issue by itself.