Super_Paulie

Good man. When you say cable everything, what do you mean exactly? I could all use round band instead of clips, need to see how much room I have to swing a hammer.

Best practice, just lay water pipes on the soil from A-B or clip them to the underside of the joists? Seems a lot of effort for long runs...

I'm in a similar situation, going to chase a wall this weekend. It does mean a transition from plastic to copper under the floor which I'm not keen on and I've decided to have my check valve at the manifold end instead of buried in a wall. I was planning on a flat metal bar to cover the chase incase I drill into it in the future. Which I will when I forget its there. I'm aware that's no help at all to you, but just to say that we are both gunna be chasing block, so good luck to ya.

thanks for the info chaps. But like i said, i have an isolator already, the tap is connected directly to the manifold which has isolation at that point. Was just looking for a relatively nice solution so i dont have to go into a cupboard every day to turn it. Padlock and eye bolt is what i am going for. I see, cheers.

Yeah I've seen those, but I've already got the taps. Wanted to go Pegler for the quality based on reviews of them.

Hey Google, activate outside taps. Like Connor I would be coming directly from the manifold and I'm adding the DCV there. I mean I guess I could add an isolator just on the inside of the wall but that would be isolation at the manifold and a valve, seems a bit much. But on the other hand I don't really want to go to the manifold each time to turn this off... An eyelet and a padlock is winning so far I think.

Well I'll put that in the maybe pile. Any other suggestions I'll take on board, might have to get creative on this one.

Might be weird if we are both doing it though.

Might be a good shout, like a lockable key cabinet you see in offices. I'll look into that now. Obviously it's not a huge concern, 99% unlikely anyone would ever turn it on as a jape, but if the possibility is there then I'd like to reduce that to 100% unlikely. Maybe even something like an eye bracket and a "close to the handle" padlock would do it.

Tried your last suggestion, if anything that made the neighbours want to use the hot tap to wash their eyes out.

Worried about going on holiday for a fortnight and coming back to a hot tap that's been running for 14 days, sure! The tap is street side, so public facing, although it's a decent area I guess it's not out of the question to occur.

Expensive...! Yeah I have an isolation on the inside but might be a chore to get to every time. Maybe a U shaped bracket that the handle slots into and a small padlock?

Hi guys. Does anyone have any ideas on how to lock down an outside tap? Never thought about it until now but with a hot tap out the front of the house (dog and car washing) someone could potentially open it up while we are out which would then activate the boiler obviously and then it's hard cash literally down the drain. The obvious answer is to remove the handles and have them in the porch as you can turn the tap without the handles being secured on, just push the handle on and turn it, but I'd be interested if anyone else has came up against this scenario and how they dealt with it. The taps are Pegler.

Thanks Connor but I've had my feeds on 15mm the last decade and I'm happy with it, it's enough for washing the dog. It's also 2 feeds, hot and cold. I already have my taps, it's more the transition from full length plastic to copper, chasing and check valve location I was hoping for opinions on. Cheers though 👌

gentlemen. im looking to feed a external taps for the garden etc, with the feeds coming from my domestic manifolds. But it poses a few questions... Id need to chase the block to get the pipework up to where it exits the house, so id be using a copper wallplate/tube with the half inch thread for the tap. It would mean i would lose my "one, continuous feed" from manifold to outlet in my plastic layflat as obviously it will need to transition from plastic to copper under the floor, which is indeed a shame. But additionally where would i put the double check valve? The taps i want to use are Peglar levers so have no built in valve, should i just add that at the manifold end as it would end up under the floor or chased in which surely isnt the best way to do it. As the pipes will be exiting essentially in the middle of the lounge its not like it can all be concealed in a kitchen unit so it will have to be chased. Either that or come out at under-floor level and then up the wall externally which im not keen on. Any genius thoughts welcome, i cant really think of any other way to go abouts this but just thought id throw the question out there. Image attached

thanks fella, i'll look into it.

Any idea what it was @Jenki ? I can see a Reliance one that claims 30°, but if it can't get down to 26/27° then it's a non starter.

@Gone West I know it was a while ago but what did you use to hold your manifolds in place, can you recall? I've struggled to find anything and was about to 3d print something.

good man, thanks for the info. Are they reliance valves?

preference on joining 2 of these together? Not the same as, but very similar to the Hep20 equivalent. Threaded and a locking nut but also a rubber washer. Same on the other end but to insert a threaded insert and then a drain cock. I was going to plaster fernox potable on the threads but im open to suggestions as to why its better to use PTFE in this instance. The manifold instructions dont mention anything, which seems dangerous.

ideally id put the TMV at the aquarium end so i can easily manipulate it but its a good shout. I did plan on doing that originally as i made the 2 feeds with the 2 NRVs but in the end i just stuck an elbow on in with some pipe to mix it. Not sure why, think i lost interest in the job but i already had the 2 NRVs in place ready which seems mental to sack it off right at the end. When i re-jig this i'll use the TMV and rebuild to just have the one NRV and lose all the copper as its meant to be bad for the fish and shrimps but ive had no problems there since i put it in. What i do is use a speedfit connection and then have a removal cleaning "wand" that is basically some hose clipped to a small length of 15mm pipe with an end on to stop the fish ploughing down the hose and into the soakaway, then i just remove it from the speedfit fitting when ive cleaned it. The syphon works class and its incredibly easy to drain and fill the thing up, which is a horrendous job when the tank is in the front room.

Bit of a dilemma... Do I leave these tails copper (new cut, all the same length, obviously) and use an elbow under floor level to attach the plastic runs or do I take the plastic all the way up to the manifold. I was wanting to have zero joins but the copper is proper sexy to look at and it's shiny. Or am I just losing the plot here with visual over function.

yeah i know, its an odd situation. So you reckon the 2-port for the rads up at the boiler end? easy enough to run the cable.

after getting my domestic water sorted, cheers gents, https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/32853-dhw-manifold-arrangement-options/ ive now moved onto the UFH. As my manifold is going in my bunker and the boiler in the loft it raises a few issues with the dedicated feed and return for the UFH. Am i better off doing as shown in the (simplified) diagram? that is bringing both the 2 ports down to the wiring center and then going back up for the rads. Also the return, i believe i need that "tapped back in" above the last rad in the house to avoid reverse circulation, so is the diagram accurate? Cheers gents

Almost seems a crime to put this in a cupboard... My plan is to change the copper tails to layflat, copper was just to keep my clips in alignment, so that it's just a continuous pipe with no joins to each appliance. Dedicated 22mm feed to the boiler. 1 spare on each, but room to add another 2 port to the ends if needed in the future. Any suggestions of changes before I solder this up? (Feeds close to the main due to space limitations under the floor so I had to bunch them up to fit between joists and through the gaps in brick.) As it's in the bunker with the ufh manifold I assume I'm going to have to lag up these colds to stop condensation @Nickfromwales?