MikeSharp01

Yes got to order one of these Level 3 kits but so many options - will need a phone call to them I think.

I think the attached spreadsheet document, from Cool Energy, might help but have not looked carefully. Its the BMS Modbus link.(Unit Information and AI tabs). R290 heat pump X1.HL092H.K05.001-1.MODBUS_RTU.V100A07 - 2025-4-16.xlsx

Makes sense @Big Jimbo thanks.

See pics. Our boy has given me the job of fitting their vanity unit. Getting there is a mission but I have hit the problem of fitting the basin to the cabinet. There are no fixing points on either without some form of fixing the sink slides about! How is the connection made in these circumstances I ask myself and so the team here. Silicone? Mirror pads? Velcro pads?

See pics. Our boy has given me the job of fitting their vanity unit. Getting there is a mission but I have hit the problem of fitting the basin to the cabinet. There are no fixing points on either without some form of fixing the sink slides about! How is the connection made in these circumstances I ask myself and so the team here. Silicone? Mirror pads? Velcro pads?

Is that the wiring center? I chose not to have that assuming there was a screen on the unit somewhere and I would be controlling via the BMS anyway - perhaps it would be useful to have anyway.

If you are employing a professional then they should sort the filling compaction. What is beneath the joists is it membrane or board as they behave differently when filled. We did it ourselves borrowing a machine looks to have worked well given the way the house performs insulation wise.

Yes. I don't, so tomorrow I will get some hep2 inserts. Until then I have done a temp job with some JG speedfit bits I had.

Just fitted a compression 15mm end cap and that worked so next trick get some hep2 and go from there.

Outside is 15mm inside about 10.5 brown in colour.

Just hove to ar our sons new house and found a leak in the pipe feeding the sink. I have not come across this system anybody know what it is and if I can go along to Screwfix and get some other plastic pipe and fittings to splice a bit in where the leak has happened.

So what should we be filling our UFH with: With or Without Glycol. (We have done that one to death elsewhere) Tap water + appropriate inhibitor. Softened water + appropriate inhibitor. De-ionised water + appropriate inhibitor. Filtered water + appropriate inhibitor. Others I may not have listed.

Hi Bob and welcome to THE forum for people like us.

I wondered about that but I think I can fit the extra one to the current setup and fit gauges on the input and output pipework

So in a no mixing ASHP install that I am putting together the flow does go in the top and out the bottom which makes perfect heat flow sense to me? This how it is set up here based on the manufacturers details, but I feel the air trap and pressure gauge are mixed up surely any air will get pushed to the outlet and you might want to know what the input pressure is - although not sure it matters.

Just poking this thread as it came up in a GPT chat today as a reference. I think the flow and returns are mixed up here. Should the flow go in at the top and out at the bottom - well at least that is how the arrows point on ours and judging by the annotated photo same as for the OP. I guess my question is does it matter given the image above does it the other way around. I would have thought the flow meters would be single direction or is the image wrong?

We have done this and I have found that it works but only up to a limit - once temps are at 30+ it is not able to make things comfortable, so after this summer I am fitting fan coil units in the bedrooms so I can cool them if I need to.

Shame I bought two of these 3 months back ready for the roofer to fit!!!!

Those cable sizes seem very large are you calculating it, if so how, or using some sort of lookup table?

They do have CIL in Canterbury so do that before you start any building work of any sort.

Yes I think I hope they get to keep it, such drive - the site manager was the best bit, ground worker to project managing a 7m build over night.

Watch today's Grand designs - 2000 sq M 7+ million and we are not at the end of the program yet. It will make your eyes water....

Us too - no issues, quality gear I think.

Your pic shows a rather poor connection between the pipes and the floor above, at least in the bits we can see - air is a reasonable insulator so as things stand you are not getting the heat from the pipe into the floor very well, can you still access it or are you beyond that stage already? Going forward there are perhaps two approaches. Try to stop all flow in the downstairs and then experiment with the upstairs manifold flow rates and the water temperature (+delta T) to see if the upstairs system can be adjusted to cope without the downstairs in circuit. (Keep notes of the present settings so you can return to them at any point.) If it can't then you may need to fall back on making the downstairs do all the work. Do the heat calcs - how much heat you need out of each zone for the length & diameter of pipe, coupling losses, area of the zone etc. Then adjust the flow rate settings in the controller for each zone and see what happens. I get the sense from your original post that the bathroom is your principle concern so maybe just run / play with that loop. Get a gun type thermometer to measure the temperatures everywhere (pipes, floors etc).

Finding pressure drops for components in heating systems can be a pain and while I was looking to do a more detailed analysis of our system prior to install I came across this paper from 2019 that gets well into the weeds of the pex-al-pex pipe and fittings. Well worth a look if you want to understand the details and see the difference a coupler, a union and direct connection. Link is: https://www.e3s-conferences.org/articles/e3sconf/pdf/2019/26/e3sconf_eko-dok2019_00045.pdf