MikeSharp01

You won't find a supplier prepared to take the risk on you! You need to derisk it yourself by paying by credit card in 30K lumps - take care there are dragons here. Or go to your local betting shop and see if you can get cover that way. We used Norrsken and they worked out just fine. Carefully doing the measuring processing the order sorting install, doing it well and fixing the one problem we had, a seal getting caught up, diligently.

Now you are showing your age.

The ecodan must be working if the water is heating unless the water heating is done by something else? E.g. immersion heater. If it is heating the water I would look at the changeover valve(s) - maybe it is stuck in water heating mode and the HP is getting a good go signal for that and the error only occurs when heating is requested but it does not get the positional feedback from the valve to say it iss ready to direct the water round the heating.

Yes can't see why not - sounds like a plan.

We use the membrane approach and it worked out very well, using the 4m wide Intello stuff gets the coverage pretty quickly and with fewer joins, although building the internal structure for the service void afterwards / on top has been a pain. We had some section with PB skin on the inside as well as outside so I put inspection holes through that so I could see I had it packed correctly and then covered it in membrane. Don't forget that well packed cellulose fibre is pretty air tight on its own. We achieved 0.2 on the PH Scale (ACH n50) and .29 on the BR scale for our first test, pre Plaster boarding. So far I have not damaged it but I am about to push the MVHR inlet and outlet through it so we will see how we get on!

Yes - that about sums up Chefing though - cooking made difficult or have I got that wrong?

We went for option 2 in the end - BC suggested best as did a few here.

Welcome to THE forum.

This is the idea we saw yes we are - we did the garden room and it was not a chore really and it came out well enough - we expect to do better this time around. If we don't like it however we will get it skimmed. yes I think it is dry-wall I will check though - thank for the link.

I think we saw it in a magazine I will ask.

We want to achieve a shadow gap under the window sills on our build. We are intending to drywall it all if we can, I have made a model of what we want but I am worried that I won't be able to feather this in. Is there a better way to form this in a drywall situation? Here are some pics of my model. Any ideas gratefully accepted.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us - sounds like fun up there in Glasgow if the weather is anything to go by!

Yes we have Norrsken - very happy. As I understand it not all their windows are Viking, we have two windows that are not but are close enough to looking the same to make no difference and one of them has a tilt & turn triangular casement which is what we wanted.

Create a fireplace outside ' you have that amazing veranda / lougia We just stayed in a PH place in Skye with a log burner - we light it up and flung open all the windows stripped to our undies - not a pretty sight, perhaps marginally worse than a picture of pocster.

You already did it - twice!

Just spoke to a colleague of mine, civil engineer / soil mechanic he has never heard of 20m piles for a to story building other than if you are building on a bog! Ask them why they need 20m piles.

A small 2 story property needs 20m piles! Sounds a lot to me - do they need to get to bedrock?

Hi and Welcome to THE forum for people like us. Sound like a great project look forward to hearing more.

Right to light is a thing but not for planning. It can cost a lot to go to law over it but it can cost the people who infringe it shed loads. Get a feel for it here: https://www.onebroker.co.uk/business/business-sectors/one-indemnity/right-to-light-insurance/

Do they have an established right to light (RTL) as there are specific rules for this. Is it 20 years qualifying period, can't remember, of they don't qualify there is no establish RTL. Also it only applies to habitable rooms not driveways. Both properties seem to be close to oneanother, I guess that's location, location, location for you. Have a look to see how many houses have got extensions like the one you are planning and see what the planning history for them is to get an idea of whats been allowed. Also RTL is not a planning issue it a civil law matter.

We went with Norrsken after looking at Rationel, Nordvest and Norrsken. The problem with Nordvest was that they didn't have a local installer and only Norrsken could do a triangular tilt and turn window. We have been very happy with our Norrsken windows and Norrsken themselves.

Just watched it - you two did a grand job. Mind-blowing effort 👌

No not a problem just do the best possible, 2 supplies will make the flow rates lower so quieter. You need to do the math to work out the flow rates so you can get the right size pipes to keep the noise down tvhe bigger the better and double them up even better.

Hang a tape rule out of the window to the ground and measure it.

Looks like it should work but can you get the pipes where you need them. You want to try and get the supply vents across the room from the door if you can so you don't get any stale air pockets so if possible I would move them across a bit to be on the diagonal to the doors upstairs. Not sure why you have two supplies in the dinning room and might be worth checking the kitchen extract location in relation to the hob and defo put a sock in it to trap particulates. Did the designer give you the flow rates etc?