MikeSharp01

You can get away with this while you make sure the screws pull the board down tight and the screw gets covered with skim. The screws will relax a little over time but even then the gaps around the threads won't add up to much on the scale of things.

@Post and beam don't forget that dew point moves about with relative humidity (RH) so any control system will need RH and temperature inputs to calculate the dew point. A simple equation can be found here although , as the author points out, it gets wobbly below 50% RH.

That is possible but these days you can get many colours in intumescent. We did our only steels, two uprights supporting a cross beam, in white intumescent they look good but only a portion of them will show.

We have updated your permissions and you are now able to blog!

Got our first fix air test today 0.2 on the Passive House scale max = 0.6). (n50) and 0.3 on the Part L scale (max = 5) very happy we are so now we move into second fix. It has been several months of work doing the air tightness taping windows, floors and sealing ducts.

and there be dragons - Mr Bernoulli’s Equation is no fun to apply and this has been discussed before:

Do you recall your methodology for working this out? Did you use just savings in energy input or this and / or other factors?

That is the route that @AliG will, should one wish to contact him, point you at I think.

Donations to Buildhub now go via @AliG @newhome has retired from the role. We need to make an announcement to this effect I guess.

I have fitted a 22mm Plastic pipe into the wall, mounted at DHT22 on the end of a piece of 15mm pipe and put a RPi PICO on the other end to monitor temperature and Humidity, it is all behind a standard drylining socket box so I can access it and it is fed by a PoE CAT6 cable - power only data is by WiFi. Slide the 15mm pipe and DHT22 into the 22mm pipe, plug the Rpi into the Poe converter, close the wall box and job is done.

WUFI is not for those with a faint heart! I did a full analysis of our wall build up looking for condensation using it and was relatively happy, 'this isn't so hard' I thought, but in the back of my mind I was concerned I hadn't got it right as I had some odd results I could not explain away. So decided to pay a professional - they soon put me straight - it was quite an eye opener! It turns out that for our application you need to focus on worst case zones so, in our case, low down & high up on the eastern side of the north face and ignore everywhere else. (This because the wall build up here is / was subtly different to everywhere else and North facing - something you could work out I suppose and nothing really to do with the software.) So taking an average for each elevation was, could have turned out to be, fatal. We were able to sort the problem by adjusting the build up slightly and using the 'intello' breathable membrane to remove the problem. I have, none the less, installed interstitial Temperature & Humidity sensors in the critical places so I can keep an eye on it!

B-

The OP has been edited all quiet on the western front!

I would make a pattern from a piece of thin ply, say 6mm. Mark out the distances, drill a tiny hole and put a screw through the ply do it sticks out the other side a little. Then measure for the other screw, drill & fit another screw. Check the bookcase fits on the plywood then drill a very small hole in the wall. Lodge one of the sticking out screws in that hole and scribe a small arc, 5mm each way on the horizontal. with the other screw. Use a spirt level to get the horizontal from the small hole over to the arc, then drill the second small hole.

That's a tough ask as the one controls the other. You know what our build up is and the resulting U value (a combination of PU and blown cellulose) and that comes out at 470 mm (ish). Maybe worth looking at making the internal dimensions slightly smaller and playing with internal features; vaulted ceilings, through views, clever decorations etc to make it feel bigger.

Sounds like a great project - keep us updated and welcome THE forum for people like us.

Perhaps a little harsh, we are, after all, trying to learn from one another - nobody is an expert at everything, evolve ideas where can and help others make choices in their projects. You are correct decision support software is just that it helps people make choices and designs need execution during which process yet more choices are made. There are, after all, choices everywhere in self building. All that is somewhat over simplistic because, for instance, during his time here @Jeremy Harris added vastly to the communities knowledge while also proliferating a myriad of choice points. Also, in the end, its good to talk.

Interesting - will need to clear out my dusty rules of thumb draw or maybe I mixed up the pressure generated by a wind rather than the wind velocity generated by a pressure difference meteorologicaly.

Not sure 50Pa will result in gale force wind, it is only 0.5 millibar pressure difference after all. I dimly recall that 4mb pressure difference gives 10mph wind, so 0.5mb = 1.25mph, although I could be very wrong on that as fluid dynamics not a strong point with me. To be fair I did our first suck out air test the other day and took the house down to 25 pa and I was hard pressed to open the outward opening front door. Will go down to 50 pa this week and see how the extract rate is.

You could make it so by double nutting or Castle nutting it. Alternatively, assuming the nuts are not under load would be to use half nuts and then leave the 2 thread clearance. You could probably get down to bolt head thickness that way.

Can we know more about what this comprises - bikes, scooters, rodeo simulators......

Visited this place today - Little Morton Hall! Still up 500 years (ish) later. Spoke to the surveyor who says the tower moves a few mm (13) in a cycle over the year and depending weather, but its not sagging any more than it already had when they started measuring, which they do 3 x a year, 9 years back!

We used AFT - they worked very well with us, they did the structural work with our SE, supplied the Kit, and supported us all the way. We prepared the ground, set out the kit, did the rebar work, attached the UFH to the mesh and poured the concrete ourselves.

Looks like the URL has been added to the Original Post as well.

Yep me done to - via my phone which takes great pictures of QR codes.