MikeSharp01

I like that you have Ned Kelly wearing his metal head gear working there in the middle with the green high viz.

Metric.

The thread on gauge does not appear to be standard, 1/8th BSP vent does not fit, I will talk to the suppliers and get a new end cap assembly as the flow head.

Sadly that would require a complete redesign and there are loads of other pipes - mains water, water softener etc, running in those areas I have not installed yet so two filters is easier. I have the connections for that coming Monday to the far left of the straight run from the return manifold That's already in the return line from the tank out of shot to the left. Its not 25l though it 8l which should more than cover the 70l of the system I worked out.

Here is the plant room mockup plumbing (used 28mm plastic segments to get lengths right and check scheme). I think I can get the filters into the utility room as indicated, I either do away with the fill flush or put it outside by the HP and work hard to insulate it.

I will send some pictures in the morning.

I think I have a full flow filter. It's this one:

So I am going to have house them both outside.

Thinking about it I cannot put the valve inside either as it would have to be in one side or the other of the system.

Does that mean the stainer has to be inside as I have nowhere to put it inside. Pipework splits as it comes through the wall.

Your budget is not unrealistic for 80m2 and if you are into it for the long term you can do a lot of the work yourself and pay for it as you work. The up front lump will be your plot cost!

Thanks, how do you put inhibitor etc in, no Glycol. We are but the manifold went in before we chose to go that way, only three loops no independent control of the loops other than by the flow meters which once set are left. That is what I thought.

Radical Thinking - but maybe where we are heading. Our children, in their 30s, will defo not retire before 70!

Making progress we are but have a couple of questions. Can we install the fill / flush valve: outside by the heat pump, much easier to get at if we can, just needs good insulation around it and I guess I will still need a filling loop inside to pressurise the cicuit. Each of the UFH loops have a control valve at the bottom and flow meter at the top which way do the control valves work, unscrew to open or screw down to open. The rep from the company did not know but their technical guy has yet to get back to me, thought there is bound to be an expert here somewhere. Do I need Non return valves (NRVs) in the return circuits, UFH and Cylinder, before they re-join to go back to the Heat Pump, I can't see why I would but I saw somewhere doing it.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us. Well 3k per M2 is not a bad figure, so yes. On question 2 I have no idea.

To make getting some of our 28mm heat pump pipework accessible after install I am looking for a couple of flat face connectors so I can break the joint and remove pipes sideways with out having to unplug lengths of pipe in the fitting; This one looks good but is not a traditional compression at either end. Is there such a thing out there?

What does the LGBGT stand for here cos I am blowed if I can track its meaning down.

We used Norrsken and had the same basic worries so we split the contract so that no single part was above the 30K limit on the Credit card protection which made me feel better. As with Nick they did a grand job and came back promptly to fix an issue with one of the seals jumping out of its slot.

Today's learning point is this. The heat meter arrived yesterday and very smart the OpenEnergyMonitor.org Level 3 system is! However pasted across the flowmeter port is a sticker that says '1.5bar minimum pressure' which gave me cause for concern because our system only has a 9m head pump and in normal operation we will be using only 2.7m of that at 5oC delta T (5.57m at 3oC delta T) which is only about .25bar. So I called the suppliers and asked how this would work and got a simple, but not obvious to me, answer that you need to pressurise the system first. Reflecting on this news I think I get why the system might need a base load pressure. To ensure positive flow to each circuit giving the pump a stable operating point. Stop cavitation in the pump Remove the possibility of negative pressure sucking air into the the system. If that make sense the only question now is what pressure to set it at? 1.5, 3 bar or some other value?

Bending 28mm pipe sounds like a challenge, I got the swept bends in the images to avoid bending myself. I do have a conduit bending machine but I am not sure I can get a 28mm former for it - I will have a look.

Yes John and I realise I could simplify further as this image:

Just plumbing in the heat pump and am trying to keep all pressure drops to a minimum. Here are two possible configurations of one part, assume the plastic segment will be copper, which of them is going to have the lowest pressure drop I wonder and how would I work it out? It is all 28mm pipe.

Yes but there are 35 million cars registered in the UK!

You do wonder a little tiny bit why not - as it would encourage people to move away from gas and towards electricity. The downsides are relatively unthinkable and the elephant in the room problem is that we don't have enough electricity to move to and too much of what we do have is made by burning gas.

Phew - we got our approval through 3 weeks back via the Cool energy umbrella scheme and I hope they will allow that through! The HP has arrived as has the tank ( from Telford - via Trevor at cylinders to go) but it won't be commissioned for 6-8 weeks.