zoothorn

Now -I'm- lost. Afaik, & looking at the b&q clip, I fix the jam into the rebated trench, screw/ fix.. then saw off the excess. So I don't understand why the trench bit if I sawing the excess bit off (just to keep it nice & perp b4 you screw it together-?). Yes I think joe explained my plan. Just shift one rebate inwards, I think 2" or so, once Ive determined my header W. I can only think I find the header width, or rather the perfect width of the jams, by extending the narrowest opening width I find, upwards to the opening overhead area bit, marking a point.. then doing the same opposite side, & measuring distance between. Is that right?

Crikey that's gonna add up- if its on say 8 hrs a day, call it £30 a week/ £120 a month, so I can't possibly even afford it. I have good seals on door btms/ I plugged every nook on 1st winter/ everything. Its just coming up from floor Peter, you can just feel it is (no insulation, slab on ground) and in thru walls (no insulation, 2 brick courses): its not the old part of house too/ its worse. The bathroom adjacent to kitchen, is even colder: even with rad on, plus fan heater on, you stand in shower & get blasted by -cold- air.. the fan's heat just goes by time it gets to you! And that's a mild day (middle of feb, shower's unuseable you're just too cold getting in & out). If I move controller to kitchen, trouble is it'll rarely get up above 19*, meaning it'll just be on almost continually. Currently 20* almost time to go off. House not warm.

Had to put fan heater on in kitchen, as usual, near flat out too/ only way I can get warm. This house is an absolute nightmare- never known any house like it. I thought this CH would be what I needed, but won't be able to do a gnat's fart in january at this rate, totally pointless to have it on. Rads' sides all remain cold. Depressing.

I know its a 7.5kW Peter. I'd say they all get warm same, you'd expect the 1st in the queue to happen a bit before, as I find. Rads btms are all cold-warm, top you could say only warm now/ defo going down in temp from before. House isn't warm at all. Bathroom is cold, kitchen cold, I'm still in wooly hat cold nose, feet, legs very nippy. Pretty infuriating considering how much I'm spending if its been on alot since 7.30am & I'm just never getting warm. Actually its almost pointless. Temp 19.5*

Rads mostly fairly-hot, still just coming up to temp as some still cold-warm at btm: so I'd say takes 2 hrs (even with system on all day doing 18*) to get them all fully up to speed (another hour to get rooms warming 9pm, another hour to get rooms nicely warm.. prolly.. but had gone off at 9!). Afaik they only go to fairly-hot @ max. Now, whether this has taken longer tonight -it seems so- I'm not sure.. but I'm bloody cold is all I know!

No trv's (thank god- hateful things). Its showing 19*.

@PeterW ok so I ramped it up to 25* at 6pm. 50mins ago. Outside temp 5.5*. All day its been set to 18*. What would you expect me to find at the rads by now? (is that a legitimate Q?)

Ramped up to 25* at 6pm (been at 18* all day. Im in my kitchen, hat & coat on, cold nose & legs. This bloody house is absurdly cold! nothing to do with the system). What am I meant to be telling here-?

Ok so is my plan to push the rebate inwards/ re-rout it, any good.. I'm not missing a trick? Also it says 'inc stops'.. pic suggests stops are fixed in place: can that be, or unlikely? thanks zoot

Actually this is the only thing in town, in stock.. 27mm (x130mm) whitewood, is that too thin? https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/pefc-whitewood-lining-set-bwf-cert-32-x-138-act-size-27-x-132mm-PPL93214

@Onoff very neatly done. I do get the rout idea too, & like your router doodle! But one difference yours to mine: you've fashioned the opening to accomodate a frame lining kit, with specific rebated positions, to accomodate a regular 2'6 or 2'9 door. Plus a regular door H too. I assume. Me here I'm designated by my 800mm opening (actually 790mm cos its got a midrift hump). This will equate to a 2'4 door more or less. And the H likely different too (but here I guess its just a Q of nipping off two ends of the jams, even in your case there). So as it seems better quality, & has the slightly bigger D @ 33mm, & has one side rebated already.. could I not buy a kit & just rout either header rebate 'inwards' 2"? then I know I have correct wood guages for a casing/ lining, one side rebated I could 'copy' (and also hasn't it got the planty bits inc too?) Or am I missing something? thanks.

@PeterW Ok I'll ramp up the temp later.. but how this can be at all conclusive, just doing it on one occasion, is strange to me (and what else I could possibly say other than 'the rad & therefore the room gets hotter', Ive no idea: am I expected to be noting the time it takes to reach a particular temp or something? taking a note of outside temp too? repeating it on at least 2 days with a similar outside temp difference-?). But what else could it plausibly be? this rads/ room temp discrepency I find one morning to the next, with the outside temp different? you say it 'could be one of many' things other than its temp compensation off kilter..

@Onoff ok look are you suggesting that I just buy a lining kit? If so could you please just say? Im really struggling to find suitable wood here. And to do this by making it. IE If I do find it, then I have to fashion these rebates -perfectly- 90* which isnt easy at all. Afaik, I have to measure the narrowest part of the opening, which is by 8mm, the middle, measure up/ mark a point.. & pack out all the area above & below. Is this right? Ive no idea. Or am I meant to hack away at the wall until I have a perfectly upright side? the clip assumes a perfect opening/ surely most aren't so.

Ok am I following the way here then, or doing it any differently because I don't have a 'regular' opening.. seems a decent clip..

How so if its got 'temp compensation' & I'm cold @ 9am one morning (outside temp mild), but warm the next morning at 9am (outside temp a few degrees colder)? Has my perception of cold changed in 24hrs & its actually working correctly?? or.. is it cos the temp compensation ain't working right?? I mean- come now.

Ok thanks for the explanation/ at last a reason, above. Unless its explained "just turn it up!" makes no sense & my time also is wasted asking and asking why I should be doing such a seemingly meaningless test. But surely, my findings/ what Ive outlined as is happening, are reason-enough to conclude the 'temperature compensation' needs adjusting? All I really need do now I have these two words to hand, is call someone & pester them to adjust it. Maybe installers.

Cos I use it alot for my work- sounds great as its light & the only 275mm I can get, but a sod to work with as its dreadful quality: not an assumpion, rather a finding. Ok I'm off to see what wood I can find for it. thx zoot

"Temperature compensation". Aha, I missed these words before as I was distractedly frazzled trying to understand the turn it up test. Ok now this surely is the nub of what needs adjusting: at last I can see the wood for the trees. Its pretty obvious this is where the minor issue lies, if I find what I've repeatedly said I find. No need for any 'turn it up' (.. is there?) I didn't even know there was such a thing/ area/ section as 'temperature compensation'. If I knew where this was, heck I could probably tweak it myself, maybe in 5mins. But finding it, in that manual?? no flaming chance. Thanks- useful info then from ProDave (obviouslyI needed joe90's calm manner to get me to it!). Appreciated chaps- zH

Somewhat clearer- thanks ProDave. I'm totally confused still though. "If you find with the temperature set way up high, the rooms warm up quicker, then this suggests the temperature compensation might need adjusting to make normal operation warm up quicker." I just don't understand this. Surely if I find the room warms up quicker doing this, that is -exactly- what I would expect, & therefore, could conclude it -doesn't- need adjusting. I think its too much- if I can't make sense of you kindly explaining why the experiment is being asked of me, there's no way I can understand how, if, its (what- if I cannot even figure this out too) needing adjusting, it can be done, let alone by whom. I'm getting such a headache trying to understand the suggestions & info. The system is just too complicated, & there's too much to go wrong with it (& so far has done) so your never sure if its working right, & the manual is incomprehensible. This much is a certainty. At least it seems to be working when the outside temp drops: if it was the other way round I'd be up a gum tree- so I'll leave it at that.

Ah yes.. didn't think of this! that's an idea but I was thinking best way to get this bit super-tight was fit L & R 1st, whittle down the header bit until I get it super tight. I'll never be able to get it super tight screwing it onj 1st. Rebating that bit.. not easy either. Anyway I'm truly stuck on what timber- I seem to have only 1 option available, & poor quality 'whitewood'. 27mm x 130mm actual size. I'm wondering now if I were to buy a frame kit thing, then just narrow the header piece, I'll have good straight timber @ correct thickness like this. ?

Ok. Can someone explain why I'm continually being asked to turn it up. It is totally unintuitive to me. Just turn it UP! turn it UP! Just shut up & just do it! but never any explanation as to why. What on earth is the point to this? If I turn it up.. the rads get hotter, the room gets hotter. So what? Is that what I'm then meant to put here as a finding?? then what, someone says "yes!! there you go!!"?? (so what would this proove? nothing I don't already know). I'm not saying "the system isn't working at all" (in which case just turning it UP & it getting hotter would disproove me). I'm saying the system doesn't appear to be working in a rational way if one day the rads are warm-only-they-do-not-go-any-hotter-for-3-hours-solid when it says 12* outside, & the room isn't warm/ I'm not warm. And the next day the rads are hot-good-as-expected-go-on-and-off-but-mostly-fairly-hot-for-3-hours when it says 10* outside, & the room is warm/ I'm warm. Its this discrepency I am enquiring about. Only this. It appears to me inconsistant with a system working normally. Turn it UP! is totally meaningless excercise, unless I'mmistaken (& so if someone can explain why I'm being asked to do it then), & on a totally different tangent to the avenue I'm asking about.

Im having trouble finding the timber. I thought this was the easy bit. Is it 'redwood' planed timber, as opposed to 'whitewood'? The nearest I can find is this.. https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/pefc-standard-whitewood-pse-32-x-138mm-act-size-27-x-132mm-PWP32138 .. but I think whitewood isn't very good quality? certainly the 25x275 stuff I use is generally very light & often cracked/ cupped. I need to buy the right stuff for this, if my structure its fixing to isn't great.

@joe90 ok understood, but isn't getting a header piece tight between though, effectively the same principle.. but easier to do-?

There's no lintel at all above here, just a poxy bit of stud across.. so I could fix up into this maybe: I was thinking I had to fix it just to the upright L& R. I thought the door load was pulling inwards on the Rhs upright, which is braced/ pushing on the header: I thought alot of the load therefore was intrinsically onto the header 'across' as it were. Anyway- yes I'm forgetting the door-on-outside idea. Simpler not doing this. thanks zH

I measure my kitchen (internal) door as same W as mine will be, if I go the standard way & it sits on the plant-on added pieces, like your sketch. Narrow @ 28" opening (measured plant to plant) but never feels 'restricted' in kitchen. So back to this idea. Its just the fixing in of the header that concerns me/ if the load is taken by this essentially/ how to get right.