zoothorn

Definitely drilled deep enough. Yes drill bit i didnt change for it.. anyway its fekd so gotta saw it off, utter pain. Despite this ive just about got this side in. Jobs not perfect but no way i could do better. ok im really up against it timewise now. Carpet is monday. Ok so what do i do next, with this in mind.. ie just to prep ready for him? i hve to put something covering the rearside, i cant put architrave here as its too wide. I gotta do whatever this strip is, then fix last but of skirting in, then presumably if he got to carpet in outy around it.. the 3 plant on pieces too. Then the ffrontside architrave strips on. Then paint it all 2 times. Jesush.

Tried another, got this one gently hammered in, but way too tight so then head has blitzed/ driver not anywhere near the power, cannot remove it. absolute disaster. thank -god- its the non-hinge side.. but I still need to fit it in. i dont suppose p'B foam glue will have the strength to stop it bowing out over time. hateful things.

Right!.. no wonder my spark looked at me funny. But I just tried it.. & disaster/ the screw spins in the plug/ no torque at all. 8mm drill hole, felt it go into the block behind, pushed it in, I mean wtf. @joe90 believe me Ive watched this 3x.. but still can't do it!!

I just got to kick out me rhs jam.. & nearly done:

Never has a screw and plug, made someone so cross. Calmed down now. Going pretty good, lhs jam fixed in, solid, no frame screws! Had a bit of stud i could use, actually all the wobbly stud i was worried about fixing it to, all behaving.. major luck that.

Just done- but still dont understand. I have right here 8x80mm ones. I look at youtube it says drill 8mm hole > he fires it in, tightens it up in 30 secs. If I have the plug section head, -wider- than the head of the screw............ how the flying feck can it pass thru the 8mm hole??????? magic????? Ive never known such a head****. This is why I had to get my spark to do it once (did it 30 secs, but the ^ with some from this very pack, but Q remains). does my total nut in.

Yes wss going to do.. but can you explain difference between them & a std plug? Why are there specific 'frame fixings' at all, if a frame is just a bit of wood/ nothing specific, and whatever its fixing to similarly is nothing specific either.

But I just dont get the atchitrave addition then. unless Onoff tried to explain with the 'tack' reply.. but now I'm getting really confused (again) cos I didnt understand that reply/ what its relating to. I think I can fix to the block ok if careful, & put them in the inside/ away from camera.. maybe fill nearside with pB glue foam as a fix.

I think I have some in fact.. but wtf is the difference between them & a plug & screw?! does my nut in (hence spark looking at me like an idiot.. I think cos I tried to use them, like you would a normal plug.. & couldn't work out why it kept spinning iirc). You see unless I understand what the difference is, I cant really know how to use them properly.. & they'll spin again.

well its not, cos Ive only offered the lining in. but I dont get it! but anyway yes I m going with how Ive offered it in.. unless its a NO! dummy! you'll then not be able to xyz! I hope not.

I saw my electrician fix a door lining piece, similar principle, onto my solid wall.. but doing exactly this idea I want to do: IE with timber in place he drilled right thru into wall, didn't move timber, got the plug & screw in. I cant understand it (bc surely the plug wont go thru the timber hole.. or if it does/ if hole's made big enough, the screw will pass thru it too, so timber cant be fixed). He looked at me after this 3 min job like i was a idiot.. but I still don't know how he did it.

Which way do you mean joe? towards camera, or in away from camera ? Anyway Ive had to crack on, so the top of lining is proud / towards us. Btm is flush. Ive got lining offered in/ plumb etc/ looks great. Packing away but all falling out/ sods. Anyway I gotta fix in the header really before packers i just thought. But before that I need to consider the block: Ok next problem is the lower 1/3rd of jams will need to fix thru the pB > into the block behind (no timber on these two lower corners). Ok I'm loathed to move my lining now, spent ages getting it plumb/ sqaure etc. Is there any way of fixing thru jam into the block, without moving the timber away? or is thye only way drill pilot hole/ remove whole shebang/ put in plug/ put whole lining back in-?

@Onoff hi there. Right hand side hinges, door opening twds camera. Yes arch = architrave (apologies). My pi$$ed walls: ok so as we look at the pic, the wall facing us (as in where the new shut door will be) its TOP is tilting -away- from camera. So when my lining goes in & I make it flush with the btm and PLUMB.. I'll have the lining 'jutting out' twds camera at the top. I assume this is the correct way to put the sod in plumb -IE- not having the top flush to the wall up here.. because lining will be 'inside' the opening at the btm if I do it this way, & the arch won't be able to fix onto it.

Can anyone help me out here? time is really pressing now.

@Onoff ok made a start/ routed my new rebate slot. But Ive come up against a big prob immediately. The two sides for the jams, where they fix to, are not bad/ just a few shims top & btm each side. But I just put level on the upright, just around the corner (so where the facing arch will attatch to the side of the jam).. & to achieve it plumb, I have a 1" discrepency/ gap at the LHS top.. & a 1/2" gap at the RHS top. So the frame will either stick out at the top (protruding into the bedroom the door opens 'backwards' into).. or if I put it in flush @ the top the arch will protrude at the btm/ huge gaps: I assume this way is n/a.

No I guess not.. its my over-prep sorry! Ok I'm diving in tmrw (carpet man booked monday coming so 4 days to to.. 4 minutes for you).

That's good to read your opinion here ProDave. I was wondering if dpmiller was onto something.. Id have been stuffed if he were right, as the frequency of these episodes would ramp up the colder it gets. I had 2 similar night noise episodes happen long before I put the CH on, so surely mild, therefore a low-temp registering/ tripping it to do some related cycle thing I think unlikely, if not can be ruled out altogether. A relief if so. As to the installers- in fact they said they will come, try going thru manual they said, but its a hopeless excercise (re. the overnight motor noise). You see I don't want to exhaust their visits by a pointless hour spent here: when I do need them for something again, likely with this fiasco, it'll be less easy to persuade them out. Or I might even have a certain no.of call-outs. I ideally simply need to ID what it is doing, 1st. thanks for your opinions. zH

Joe, just read my post above this one please. There is no point getting installers here re. this noise, if they do not know what it is, or able to instigate it to do it. If I can only expect a certain no. of visits from them.. I don't wish to waste them scratching their heads for 1 hr. First it needs to be identified as what it -could- be doing. If that's beyond snr Vailant engineers, it is beyond the installers too (unless they come here 3am coinciding with it happening). Only Vailant (& Id say the designers by all accounts in head office/ germany) can possibly ID what this overnight cycle likely is. Then & only then, can something -I hope- be done to sort it out/ then it makes sense they relay info to the installers to come, or they bypass them & just send their own engineer as they did with the pump (& I SORTED THIS OUT BTW TOO BY MANY CALLS, TO VAILANT!).

Yes that's well summed up ProDave. I diod get onto them today, one thing they said was 'we only just install it..' & I totally agreed, saying its Vailant, not you (this I'll say till cows come home even if you don't agree: who changed the pump? the installers? no, fact it was noisy -wasn't- their fault, obviously agreed by Vailant who changed it: if I'd just got onto installers about this, Id be sitting here with the same flippin pump.. so you gotta admit I do have some sort of a point, maybe? sometimes?). But the installer was accomodating & said he & partner would visit, go thru xyz. I said thanks but tbh surely a waste of time, if a snr Vailant UK engineer I asked when here about it (2 of them, one going through the box to see too) concludes 'I don't know, it shouldn't do anything between 9pm-7.30am' & off he goes in his van. Trouble is you cannot instigate it to do this 'cycle' thing/ you cannot prompt it to do it. Because you have no knowledge of what it is. Plus the Live Monitor just says 'standby' when its doing it. Plus it only happens 11pm-7am, so what's someone gonna do.. sit & wait for it-? so even if I get installers back... they can't possibly locate the wretched noise. The only thing (I said to the nice installer) is to get this enquiry off to Vailant (De) asap, for an answer as to wtf it is doing. THEN it might be possible the installers come here & do something to stop it, or shift it to daytime.

And now, rads have just become hot within last 15mins, compressor on. 19*, house starting feeling better, dare I say it even beginnings of feeling warm (except kitchen/ bathroom, as I expect never to be warm). Last night (during whole 25* test).. the rads did not -once- become this 'normal-hot', at any time from 6-9pm. So there's a discrepency between the way it was working last night, & tonight.. plus.. some strange 1-hour delay after I punch in 21* for it to seemingly do anything.

Yes understood Declan. That's what I had to revert to last night. At the moment, aside from this wretched noise, I'm still at a --total-- loss as to why I find no warms rads right now. Its been on at 18* all day. At 6pm I turn it up to 21. Right now, it says 18.5* & the rads have a -smidge- of warmth in the tops of them only, all of them, I'm cold/ the rooms are cold. The compressor isn't on (this is weird: 1st time Ive not heard it on, whilst the heating is on.. tho Ive little evidence now, that it is actually on at all). Now call me an idiot, but if I ramp the temp up from 18* all day to 21*, after 45mins I expect the rads to simply be pretty toasty. But they're all mostly cold. Now you -still- think this is to be expected/ this is correct?? Utterly, totally, the most infuriating thing I have ever come across in my life. Totally unfit for purpose (just this cold rads alone IMHO).

No Declan. The main problem I have by far- is this new noise started up again last night. It overrides any of the running issues discussed over last 2 days, by a factor of 10. If you cannot go to bed without knowing the system will be off & not go on with sudden incessant motor noises for hours overnight.. you are stressed. If you are stressed.. you cannot fall asleep, or have a good nights' sleep. And after only a few days of this your day to day life is severely upset & compromised. And if you do manage to sleep.. & the damn thing wakes you up.. you are flaming angry, highly stressed, & unable to get back to sleep at all. So as it is, its not 'fine/ its your house/ its the way you run it'............. it is 1000% totally unfit for purpose.

Hi ProDave- thanks for that. Up until last night, even though its not getting rads up/ Im sure something can be done about this, & even though the compressor is still very audible within the house.. bc the new pump is so much better, I was going to try starting the CH @ 6.30am: the compressor noise at the least starts off calmly & gradually increaces: maybe I could sleep thru it (not ideal tho/ the spare bedroom its in is still totally unfit to use as a bedroom now.. but its only me here, & the thing is foc of course). But now.. I'm forced back to square 1, having to turn huge mains switch off last thing at night, reaching right through a tight cupboard to get to it > then 7.30am when I wake, in very cold house, repeat turning it on.. due to this new far more intrusive noise issue started again last night (the 1st time its done it since new pump installed). I wasn't aware, or told its designed to be on 24/7. I still find it bizarre you're forced to have rads on at night. Its not conjusive I can use it like this anyway, because of the compressor noise alone during rads on overnight is intrusive, hence, I put setback temp to 10* from 9pm to 7.30am. But this new noise is entirely on a different level to the day-to-day running dull groan the system makes (Im actually getting a bit used to). Its level is exactly equivalent to the old 'loud' pumps too. So, its doing an overnight 'cycle', but, not even installers nor Vailant engineers know what it is, have ever known any other systems to do it, or say it should be doing whatever it is. Its flaming ridiculous. I penned an email to installers saying I want this noise ID'd, fixed/ rid (ideally), or if its some cycle it has to do/ a neccessity, then must be moved to daytime, with proof it won't go on overnight.. or I said its unfit for purpose, to have this box unit, within the house upstairs. But its not their fault.. so i didn't send it. Cant email Vailant/ page doesn't work, call them again? hours I don't have, besides I'm told to call installers before Vailant. It is an absolutely rotten-to-the-core system in conclusion now & I'm close to demanding its removed asap. But what happens then? I cant afford a whole new system in its place. So it seems I'm stuffed/ stuck with it.

Got a door lining kit. it measures, actually, 132 x 27mm is this too long fo this job? there's another exact the same, but checks out at 122mm or so. Would this be better/ easier?