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zoothorn

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Everything posted by zoothorn

  1. No 'bright nails' on page 17. No idea what you mean. Could you just not say what it is you're implying instead-? Is 'bright' a term for 'galvanised' or something??
  2. TT, I've done all the obvious like this. I need 120mm or 125mm. This rules out all galv ones in screwfix & toolstn. I was merely asking is 'round wire' was another way of saying galvanised. Or whether, if nails within the wood bar the heads.. why galv ones needed: I asked this before, but buried within 20 pages, it'll take an hour to find: easier to ask again. Simple stuff to you, but getting the right thing so this structure remains strong, takes me much time to research- I could do without sarcasm tbh. Thanks, zh
  3. Someone tell me if these nails are 'galvanised'? https://www.toolstation.com/round-wire-nail-pack/p64977?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dc&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAjwpKyYBhB7EiwAU2Hn2fC6xQ5obGm4EsdVB1gZoMcArV8PGjY0LUAokqUfeiPzQVkHD7v_gxoC4SwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Thanks, zh
  4. Ok TT another helpful reply.. thanks. Looked up sheer, soI think you suggest nails bc they have better side strength or something. Are you recommending lost head types, or std round heads?
  5. @PeterW or @joe90 I wonder if you could help. (I'm panicking a bit with gloomy skies, & a big ole in me house!). Was hoping the new frame would sit on the concrete cill, but misses it (pic 1 looking straight down). So I have to form some kind of shelf below or something. Got about 15mm H max. Any idea what I can do? Thanks, Zoothorn.
  6. Got my frame whittled in place, but problem I have is it doesn't sit on the concrete cill. Frame pretty much sits bang over the cavity. So do I need to form a new cill? It can't be more than 15mm H absolute max though whatever it is. Thanks, zh
  7. Hi J, thanks so much for this useful sketch.. a while ago! Finally onto the job, got 3 dry days. I just hacked away my old frame ok. At long last have new upvc frame. So all systems go. Only 3 pages so far (gone over replies before I started). Ok I've got this pickle confronting me.. a bit daunting. I wonder if you could shed a few thoughts what to do 1st? Thanks, zh
  8. Im not fixing these yet -- Could anyone help on effectively 'what screws' I need to fix timber to timber? I've only ever used goldscrews ( seem inadequate & notice they rust) or turbo screws ( seem too unsightly, as seen/ these very visible/ don't seem the right choice). Thanks, Zoot
  9. Not too shabby tho so far? Front beam/ to frame & pillars, & nogs not fixed in yet. Pleased with my notches.. circ saw defo the right tool to use. Thanks, zh
  10. IE, this look for the front (with rod end) would be too 'agricultural' surely? Coach bolts I can't think how could be used as would spin/ head can't lock into anything in the timber, but a better front look.
  11. And my side outer frame; I'm presuming using goldscrews here wouldn't be your choice: but being visible here ( front drive, head height) I'm not sure turbo screws is the right choice, their silver heads protruding etc. Turbos fine for my cabin base as all are not really seen underneath/ under-side etc, but not sure the correct choice here.
  12. Here's the notch, with the frame temporarily fixed into pillar behind. I now need to better fix these together, I presume-? The beam in foreground goes horizontally onto the notch too.
  13. Chaps, I've mostly got my frame & pillars done. Ive used goldscrews, & all seems firm, but perhaps not sufficient in the longrun-? So I need advice on what fixings to use for: fixing the doubled-up outer 6x2 frame together/ to each other. And for the doubled-up frame, to the notched two pillars; I have threaded bar that can be used, would be very strong etc, but not a great look? Two rod ends/ nuts on show at front etc. The 'mericun video chap just fires through (120mm?) torq looking serious screws, right thru both doubled frame 6x2's > into the pillar notch. I'm not sure I have enough torque in my driver, or drill bit long enough to help with a pilot hole to do this. I wonder in I could fix one of the two 6x2's to the pillar notch ( the frame front 6x2), using rod. Then flatbit a hole in the second 6x2 ( this doubles up the frame for strength, & sits on the notch too: is the outer/ front beam as it were).. & sit my threaded rod end/ nut into the flatbit hole to hide it. Then it's what to fix the front 6x2, to the second one behind ( & if I need to go onward into the pillar?) Thanks, zoot
  14. Hi TT. Thanks that's helpful.. Huge load of info for a newbie though. Ok what I've done is shroud base of post with a dust sheet, sun on it otherwise. So I'll just leave like so, 4+ days. Someone say if I'm meant to do summat else to aid curing-? Otherwise I'll assume it's ok as is. Thanks, zoot
  15. ProDave, can I ask you: how long before this properly cured? Used general purpose Hanson concrete 20kg bags, 30 mins work time. My 2 buckets filled, with my spikes set 6" down into the concrete/ job done today. 4 days or so-? Thanks, zoot.
  16. Believe me TT, I listened. On what anyway? I made a thread on ballast -volume- 3 years ago; I had the recipe (4:1.. in huge 1 ton bags). That thread was on -volume-/ ammount. It had therefore, no bearing per se on ingredients, which was my questioning on here. Don't jump to conclusions, to suit an agenda. Thank you, zoot.
  17. Hi GW, thanks.. mine also says use 30 mins after water.. now I read the small print/ thanks (Hanson again/ so 2 Hanson Brothers per bucket). A Puck Rock interlude, before the excitement continues. Thanks, Zoot
  18. Thx, reminded me I need to dive back in re.this saga.. still not resolved/ but headway made. Need last bit of help help (I shouldn't think you'd offer any help tho TT, just the usual remarks aimed at me). --- Changed my postcrete for concrete ready mix. But still 2 flaming litres of water.. argh! got 4 bags then. 30 mins this.. gives me hope I can just do this. zh
  19. Ideal! Thanks, I'm off searching for this then. Thanks GW
  20. Aha ok thanks. Concrete mix = ballast, fine that clears things up. I'll see what they have, but 3 bags of ballast seems enough in volume. 1 hour work time- a relief too. It's just a job I have to do once, & get not 2nd chance, hence needing clarity to prep. The water disappearing before shot my confidence in potcrete tbh. A thick slop will mean this less likely.. is my take on it. And thicker the better. Thanks, zoot
  21. Hi ProDave. But this is what the youtube clip chap had. Cement bags. And ballast bags. Water. Nothing else. So there is now a difference, from your post here, between ballast... & concrete mix in a bag? Unless you meant " just add water".. not " just add cement & water"-? Why is this nearly impossible for me to understand!?
  22. Yes but I cant remember I even asked this thread Q before, far more sensible after this postcrete cockup to just ask again. Proadave & roundtuit kindly replying asap proves this is perfectly acceptable. It's only you getting the hump. Yes it takes me 20x the time it takes you, I've explained this many times ( plus my memory is next to none)... please, have more patience.
  23. Hi Roundtuit, I'm getting mixed up with ballast, sand, aggregate, hardcore. Urgh. I asked for sharp sand too, & just got reply "we have builders sand". Wtf that means. So, is ballast then a mixture of sand, & the aggregate needed? If so, then I don't need the sand? Is this the same as what you say? I've never seen 20mm gravel sold on bags you see, & "sharp" sand is elusive here; Ive tried, but some 'sheds' didn't even know what it was. So, if I could get a bag containing th3 sand plus the gravel... this... is what I must get. 5:1, simple as? This you see, is what one youtube 'mix concrete in a barrow' says. Ballast & cement. Nothing else. Apart from water. Thanks, zoot
  24. Hi ProDave, you've relieved my insanity-hour. Good. Im done with these postcrete damn bags. They cause me stress. And the fast set thing drives a newbie mad: we need TIME. Ok aggregate, so a youtube clip tells me, includes sand. Is this not so? I made concrete in a mixer before, following my pro chap who left me his mixer, & I had the job he was doing to copy onward on my own.. but whether I/ we used sand too.. I can't recall. I have cement, 1/3rd bag of some sort of 'building type' sand. Do I just need say 4 (25kg) bags of aggregate then? Thanks, zoot
  25. If I pour 2 litres water in here, with my hardcore 1" bed, & bigger stones making up 1/3of volume of bucket... it will not even be seen among the stones. Then, I'm supposed to pour in this dry bag ontop. This just makes no sense to me. Bunging in most of a bucket of water, into a hole with a post in, then bunging in powder taking me nearly to top, is what I did before & made some sense ( once I mixed it up). This though.. is very very far from that. I can't see how I can fill these two buckets confidently, unless I mix up/ create concrete myself, that doesn't set in 3 minutes. If I'm not mistaken, I can do this in a barrow, with cement ( I have) & aggregate. 5:1 according to a youtube video. Am I insane choosing this option? I'm very confused that's for sure. Thanks, zoot
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